Read this puppy book, BEFORE you bring the new dog into the home. It takes longer to undo the damage!!!! At least read the forward and the first chapter.
Buy here or order from your local library..
How To Be Your Dogs Best Friend – The Monks Of New Skete
Mulholland Estates Dog Walker..
“Walkin’ The Dog” 310 739-7334 (Jan)
This is the BIG thing on the West Coast (and The East Coast)… Many dog walkers now earn as much or more then many of their clients.. The secret that every dog owner should know is: having your dog walked professionally 4-5 times a week also TRAINS your dog… Dog walkers must have well a well mannered dogs or they will be “thrown out” of the local dog parks..
THE BASIC RATE usually:
30 minute dog walks are $20 dollars for regular clients.
Additional charge for non-regulars..
This is usually a private walk , one-on-one, in your neighborhood.
“The Hollywood Bitch” is highly recommended.. email: ragsolden@mac.com
some of her clients have been..
James Caan, Sandy Gallin, Dyan Cannon, John Ritter, Warner Estate, Barry Diller, Richard Dryfus, Rae Dawn Chong, Calvin Klein, Hal Lindin, Whoppi Goldberg……
___________________________________________________________________________________
Private lessons are the most comprehensive way for you and your dog or puppy to learn since it is a customized program dealing with your choice of topics and issues – with a input from us regarding things we know are important.
The private lessons are six hours of training in five lessons. The first lesson is two hours and the remaining four lessons are an hour each. The fee is $200 for the first 2 hour lessons and if you agree to move forward, the fee is $150 for each additional 5 lessons. Includes phone consultations.
What are some advantages to private lessons?
Basic Obedience and Manners Program includes these behaviors or commands, and we will gladly customize a program to meet your needs.
Basic training is on leash with the goal to be off leash as the puppy ages.
Number 1.. saftey! Using a dog whistle… IT WORKS!
ALSO DOG WALKING:
Licensed Vet Tech and animal behaviorist.
Most of my clients are high profile entertainment dogs. As dogs are walked they are also being trained to behave on a leash, ride in a car, stay out of the street and become generally well manned. They also learn to safely interact with other dogs. All sizes, breeds and behavior welcome. I have never met a dog that I could not handle. $20 per hour when walked 4-5 times weekly.
I am in the Beverly Hills and Mulholland Drive area. Most of my clients are in BH /Bel Air. I am located at Beverly Glen near Mulholland. 310 739-7334 or package88@gmail.com
If possible, start training your cat to have her claws trimmed as a kitten. Gently stroke your cat’s paws often, getting her used to having her paws held before you attempt trimming. Be sure to reward your cat with a special food treat – one that she receives only during claw trimming or some other grooming procedure – during or immediately after trimming. The best time to trim your cat’s claws is when she is relaxed or sleepy. Never try to give a pedicure right after a stressful experience or an energetic round of play.
Your cat should be resting comfortably on your lap, the floor, or a table. Hold a paw in one hand and press a toe pad gently to extend the claw. Notice the pink tissue (the quick) on the inside of the claw. Avoid the quick when you trim the claw; cutting into it will cause pain and bleeding Remove the sharp tip below the quick (away from the toe), clipping about halfway between the end of the quick and the tip of claw. If your cat becomes impatient, take a break and try again later. Even if you can clip only a claw or two a day, eventually you’ll complete the task. (Because cats do little damage with their rear claws and do a good job of keeping them trim themselves-by chewing them-many cat owners never clip the rear claws. Others trim their cats’ rear claws three or four times a year or have them done by their veterinarian or a professional groomer.)
Many people hold the clippers at right angles to the nail, thus cutting across the nail. This tends to make the nail more subject to splitting or fraying. It is better to hold the clippers in a vertical position–that is, up and down, so that the claw is trimmed from bottom to top instead of across the nail. This position help prevent splitting.
Gently press the cat’s toe pads to reveal sharp claws in need of a trim.
Notice the pink tissue (the quick) on the inside of the claw. Avoid the quick when you trim the claw; cutting into it will cause pain and bleeding Remove the sharp tip below the quick (away from the toe), clipping about halfway between the end of the quick and the tip of claw.
If you accidentally clip into the quick, don’t panic. The claw may bleed for a moment, but it will usually stop very quickly. Soothe your cat by speaking softly to her and stroking her head. If the bleeding hasn’t stopped after a minute or so, touch a styptic pencil to the claw end or pat on styptic powder to help staunch the bleeding.
HOW DOGS THINK
A NON-VERBAL LINK TO CANINE COMMUNICATION
Have you ever seen a device or a program designed to correct a dog behavior
problem that explained how smart dogs are and how they think? Most plans or
gadgets enable owners, literally, to declare war on their hapless pets.
Little or no concern is afforded to what the dogs happen to think about
them. In fact, the implication is that dogs don’t think at all … either
they just react to external stimuli like robots , or respond according to
genetically controlled “drives.” Dogs are rarely credited with the ability
to solve a problem mentally; to analyze a situation; imagine ways to
manipulate or control it, then take a pre-planned course of action toward a
goal that was preconceived in the dog’s mind. In short, the dog is
considered a real dummy, then treated like a dummy. But this concept is not
correct. Dogs are smart. They can, and usually do, think rings around their
owners. And they can do it because most owners have never learned how to
think like a dog.
Understanding Non-Verbal Thinking
We all wonder now and then what our dog is thinking. If we wonder aloud,
perhaps when mealtime is approaching and the dog is looking expectantly at
us, we might say something like, “I’ll bet Tippy’s thinking, ‘When is my
dinner going to be ready?’ ” In all likelihood, Tippy isn’t originating any
thoughts about ‘when dinner will be ready.’ It is more likely Tippy is
imagining (or ‘imaging’ in his mind) the words and movements you usually say
and perform before getting his dinner; something like, “You want dinner,
Tippy?” All that tail wagging and those pleading eyes are aimed at
stimulating you to say it.
But, an inability to originate thoughts in a spoken language does not make
dogs unintelligent. Even people don’t actively think in a spoken language
unless they actively ’speak’ it. For instance, during a short vacation to
Japan, if you don’t already speak the language, you’ll probably pick up the
meaning of a few words. After a few natives look at you in the morning and
say “Ohio,” you may eventually learn that they’re not curious about where
you’re from, but are wishing you a “Good Morning.” Still, you won’t think
in Japanese unless you live there a few months and actively speak it. Even a
pet Akita will never learn to speak or think in the native lingo because
their voice boxes, tongues and lips cannot formulate the sounds of Japanese
… or English, or French, etc, etc. The limit of our dog’s
language-learning is the meaning of the sounds of certain words. Luckily,
dogs are quick to learn the sounds that are important to them.
With this in mind, when Tippy is prodding us about serving dinner, we’d be
wise to discard ideas about complete sentences being originated and thought
about, and replace them with the non-language concept of mental images. To
illustrate this further; when most Tippys are asking for dinner they
actually look from their owners toward the place where it is served,
generally the kitchen.
Evidence of Imagery
Some very convincing research suggests that dogs think in sensory
impressions; visual, sound and odor images, etc. This is not to say that
they sit around on quiet days experiencing videos inside their brains.
However, they likely share our ability to form and experience in their
minds certain images, odors and sounds. The scientific basis for this idea
came from Russia and was published in the US in 1973. A scientist name VS..
Rusinov1 was studying the electrophysiology of the brain and had several
dogs wired with brain wave equipment and radio transmitters. When the dogs
were brought into the lab from the kennels for experimental conditioning
tests, the electroencephalograph machine was turned on to record their brain
wave patterns. This was done at the same time each day, five days a week.
One weekend, purely by accident, Rusinov brought a group of visitors into
the lab and turned on the EEG machine. Lo, the dog that was normally
schedule for tests during the week at that time was sending wave forms
nearly identical to his regular working patterns! When the testing time
passed, the dogs’ brain waves soon returned to their normal ‘at rest’ forms.
I never found any mention by Rusinov as to whether the dogs out in the
kennel were actually performing their conditioned laboratory behaviorisms.
Chances are they were not, but one thing is almost sure; compared to human
experience in similar types of studies, the dogs were apparently
experiencing them mentally2,3.
The late Polish scientist, Jerzi Konorski,3 taught dogs to salivate and
expect food in their trays when a light flickered. This was done regularly
every few minutes. However, after a few trials, the dogs started salivating
and looking at the trays as if the food were actually there, even though the
light had not flickered. Konorski ventured that the dogs were hallucinating
about both the stimulus (the light) and the reward for salivating (the
food). One thing is sure: Something was going on in the dogs’ minds that
made them behave as if they were happening.
Some Human Examples
Before going on with dogs, let us consider some facets of our own ‘mind’s
eye,’ as suggested by Konorski. Imagine we have a date to meet a loved one
at a busy restaurant. We get there on time and sit at a table near the door.
Fifteen minutes go by, but no friend arrives. We begin to wonder if they are
coming at all. We start watching people approach the door. Pretty soon,
people with similar features almost cause us to call out to them. The more
concerned and anxious we become, the more apt we are to mistake strangers
for our friend. When he or she finally arrives, the pleasure and relief we
feel is often mixed with mild displeasure. We are ambivalent … we have
mixed emotions about meeting them in the future.
Almost everyone has mental imagery. Often, just the thought of a loved one
conjures up their image. This can apply to sounds, as well. Think about your
favorite musical piece and your can often hear it in your ‘mind’s ear.’
These are positive images. They are emotionally pleasant. At the other end
of the scale, recalling a terrifying experience can not only create its
images, but sometime even make us shudder. This is an example of negative,
emotionally unpleasant images.
Back To Dogs
So it is with our dogs. When we are late getting home, or if they over-miss
us because we spoil them with attention and petting every time they demand
it, they very likely worry in images, too. They may well recall images of us
and our activities, such as fluffing the pillows on the sofa, putting away
record albums, handling magazines and books, putting on shoes just before
leaving, sitting in a favorite armchair, etc. As a result of this, they
often engage in activities which involve them with these images: Pillows
wind up on the floor, albums or magazines are moved or chewed, a
chair seat gets dug up, shoes are brought out of the closet. If they can’t
have us there, they try to interact with things that symbolize us.
If dogs really do store up and recall images of us and life’s other objects
and experiences, it follows that we might use this to our mutual benefit.
But since most owners do not understand how dogs think, this imagery is
where the seeds of most behavior problems are sown. Dogs receive and recall
conflicting images of owners and many important experiences.
The Puppy’s Dilemma
Consider the new puppy whose owners come home at regular times and join
in an ecstatically joyful greeting ceremony. This imagery is quickly
ingrained, and the pup begins to anticipate the experience, just Konorski’s
dogs hallucinated about the flickering light and the food tray. However, as
will happen in even the most well regulated household, one day the owner is
late. The puppy begins experiencing the images of his tardy owners …
starts fretting, pacing. Well primed energies, ready for the greeting
ceremony, demand an outlet as the adrenaline starts pumping.
What’s going on in its mind’s eye or ear? It probably imagines hearing
footsteps, perhaps even sees the door open… which doesn’t happen. But it
should. This introduces conflict between what it wants and expects and what
is really happening. Conflict creates frustration. Frustration produces
anxiety, which triggers an even greater adrenaline rush. The pup searches
for something real to satisfy its desire to ‘experience’ the owner … a
magazine or book it saw the owner reading recently. It is rich with the
owner’s scent. If it cannot have the owner there, it can at least have
their genuine odor or taste. So it sniffs, tastes, maybe even swallows parts
of the article. Naturally, this does not fully substitute for the whole
owner, so the puppy’s social appetite is not really satisfied.
Finally, here comes the owner. The puppy innocently launches into its
joyous, semi-hysterical ritual. The owner starts to join in, but spies the
pulverized magazine or book. What’s this? Naturally, if not wisely, the
owner angrily grabs the pup, drags it to the demolished object and scolds
it, or slaps it’s snout or rump, or both. The pet’s single-track mind is
riveted on the owner. It yips, rolls over, or struggles vainly to escape.
Punishment concluded, the owner angrily picks up the remnants of the article
and storms to the trash basket.
Psychic Trauma
The net result of this is a totally confused pup with a conflicting set of
images of its owner. This sort of shock to the nervous system is called
psychic trauma in both animals and humans. A conflict has been instilled
between the positive image of the owner (happy Dr. Jekyll) and the negative
(Mr. Homecoming Hyde). This creates frustration and anxiety about
homecomings, growing in severity if the scenario is repeated a few times.
(It is interesting that in many cases, owners tell us that the pup was fine
for a day or so after the first punishment. This may equate to the human
experience of repression, in which memory of the traumatic experience is
suppressed, creating a sort of ‘backwards amnesia.’) Even when this occurs,
since the punishment was not associated with the act of chewing up
something, the puppy seeks out another article, perhaps a shoe, and the
cycle is repeated until the total relationship between owner and dog is
tainted with emotional ambivalence. Mixed feelings are eating away at the
positive qualities of their relationship. Negative emotional impressions may
start to dominate it.
At about this stage, many owners conclude that the punishment may not have
been severe enough. That’s why the correction was not permanent. So they
intensify it. The relationship erodes further as weeks go by. Enough of this
cascading negative effect and the owner is ready to take drastic action. The
dog, now hyper-sensitive to its owner’s mood change, feels something is
wrong. This often is reflected by new problems, such as submissive wetting
when the owner comes home or approaches the dog at other times; off-schedule
bowel movements or urination occur, etc.
Many pets act insecure, currying more favor when the owner is home, and
hence, missing the owner even more acutely when left alone. Frustration and
anxiety build, while the isolation-related, tension-relieving behavior
mounts. The unwitting owner, who originally may have thought the dog is
‘getting even’ for being left alone, begins to consider it incorrigible.
HELP!
This is when outside help is often sought. A book is purchased. The
veterinarian, breeder, pet shop, a trainer or behaviorist may be consulted.
If lucky, the owner gets advice that brings genuine insight into pet/owner
relationships and dog behavior. But, more likely, they find traditional
quick fixes and the dog winds up in a desensitization program; gets dosed
with anxiety relieving drugs or barbiturates; is stuck in a cramped crate or
cage all day, or banned to the yard or garage, or has its mouth stuffed with
chewed debris and taped shut for hours. Since none of these approaches deal
with the causes, the ‘thinking dog’ and the total relationship with its
owners and the environment, success is rare. The majority of these formerly
precious pets find themselves rejected … relegated to the local pound for
five to seven days, where the odds are 3-to-2 they’ll suffer society’s
‘ultimate solution’. But things don’t have to be so grim, if the owners
learn some ‘dog think.’
Applying Positive Imagery To Solve ‘Separation Anxiety’
Dogs that misbehave when they are left alone are said to be suffering from
separation anxiety. The term is a neat buzz-phrase; almost everybody uses
it. It sounds professional. The trouble is, as a transplant from human
psychiatry, it really doesn’t convey much useful information. However, the term is here, so we’ll
use it in its broadest sense, which is; “a troubled feeling when left alone
or apart from a certain person or persons.” This allows us to recommend a
remedial behavioral program that deals with the realities of the dog’s total
relationships. First, however, we must be sure that the dog’s veterinarian
has ruled out the many physical/medical causes for anxiety, such as
thyrotoxicosis, hyperthyroidism, pre-diabetes, encephalitis, allergies,
hyperkinesis, etc. etc.
The Program
Dogs that are unduly upset when left alone usually enjoy their owner’s
attention and petting whenever they ask for (or demand it) when the people
are at home. To apply the imagery concept to this relationship, we could say
the dog ’sees itself’ as directing, or leading the owner. When it wants some
petting, it nudges or otherwise stimulates the owner, and the owner
complies. The dog wants out, whines at the door or at the owner, and the
door gets opened. Mealtime approaches, dog whines and prances, and dinner
gets served. When the owner goes from room to room, the dog is either ahead,
leading them, or close behind. This is the reality of their relationship, at
least in the dog’s mind. But, when the owner leaves, against the dog’s
wishes, the pet is predictably upset, and problem behavior occurs. This can
involve barking, chewing, pacing, self-mutilation, off-schedule bowel
movements, urination around the house, etc.
The leadership problem can be turned about by presenting a different
reality to the dog; one in which the dog is pleasantly, but firmly and
consistently told to perform some simple act, such as ’sit’ whenever it
attempts to gain attention or affection, or whenever the owner wants to give
the dog some attention. All ’sits’, or whatever command is used (’down’ is a
good one for highly bossy dogs) are praised happily as
3 to 5 seconds of petting is awarded; then the dog is cheerfully released
with an “OK” or “Free.” (Free is a good release because OK is too common a
word.)
If a really bossy dog refuses to obey, and many do when they realize their
relationship is being turned around, simply ignore the situation, turn away
and go on about some other activity, ignoring the dog. Some dogs have
refused to respond for as long as four days before coming to terms with a
follower relationship. However long it takes, after a few days the dog’s
image of itself seems to evolve from one of giving direction to taking it
with compliance prior to being petted, getting dinner, going out the door,
getting on the couch, etc.
In moving around the house, whenever the dog forges ahead, simply
about-turn and go the other way. This must be repeated until the dog walks
patiently behind or, better yet, doesn’t even follow. It is also helpful, but
not vital, to practice down-stays of increasing length during several
evenings a week.
Images of Hyper-Emotionality
Most ‘home alone’ problem dogs get extremely emotional when their owners
get home; some even get excitable when regular departure times approach. To
supplant these emotionally over-stimulating images, sit quietly for about
five minutes before leaving, in the area where the dog will be left. No eye
contact or speaking is allowed. Then, get up and go without looking at or
speaking to the pet.
At homecoming, enter quietly and ignore the dog until it quiets down
completely. Then it is greeted happily, but briefly, away from the door of
arrival. This subdued routine soon replaces the dog’s highly emotional
mental images of returns and departures with calmness and serenity.
Here’s the tough part for most all dog owners: When coming home the place
is a mess! Pillows have been chewed, or the chair is tattered again, or a
pile of poop graces the doorway, or some other problem is evident. If we
keep in mind that the dog has in the past suffered from conflicting images
at homecoming, it is imperative that no emotion, or even attention, should be
directed at the remnants of the problem; such as chewed up magazines, shoes,
defecation, etc. Instead, after five minutes of ignoring the dog, it should
be greeted away from the scene of the misbehavior, and then pleasantly taken
outdoors or to another room and left alone while the mess is cleaned up.
This avoids creating new (or reinforcing old) conflicting images of
emotional reactions to, or interactions with, the debris, defecation, etc.
I have always called this ‘the secret clean-up’. It has worked wonders as
part of programs ranging from digging in the yard to housetraining puppies.
Just why it is such an effective adjunct to correction programs remains to
be satisfactorily explained. In the meantime, we’ll have to say that the
lack of an image of the owner and the mess is more beneficial to correction
than is the image.
The Big Picture
So, there it is. Dogs think in images and we can mold and change their
behavior in hundreds of ways if we will think as they do. For instance, on
the negative side, a set up whereby a car screeches to a stop, horn blaring,
just as a dog starts toward the street from the sidewalk, then praising its
retreat, is a valuable exercise in negative imagery. However, it must be
repeated until the dog avoids the street when cars are not present, as well.
Teaching the ‘panic’ command to come needs the dog’s name followed by a
code word, a sound image that is exclusive to coming when it is absolutely
necessary, and praise words or a vocal rhythm that is unique to that
command, coupled with fast hand-clapping while taking a crouched position.
These combined, positive images can create a dog that will dependably
respond to your code word and come to your praise. It is especially
important to teach this command when the dog is out of sight, as well as in
darkness. OK, you say, why bother to crouch to clap and praise in the dark,
or when the dog can’t see you? The answer to that lies in the dog’s
exquisite, finely tuned and interrelated aural/visual senses, as well as
just how intelligent our dogs are. But that’s another story for another issue.
In the meantime, keep positive images of yourself and the future and you
will convey confidence and cheer to your dog and all whom you meet.
The above article was first published by DOGWORLD Magazine. It is presented
here to convey the concepts behind Campbell’s humane, non-punishment systems
for correcting problem behavior in pet animals. Please feel free to copy the
article and use it as a means of spreading the word for a more enlightened
approach to pet animal ownership. If you use it in a club publication,
newspaper or magazine, etc., please mention it also appears in “Behavior
Problems in Dogs,” 3rd. ed. (1999) and in the New “Better Behavior in Dogs,”
1999, A Guide to solving all your dog problems, (Direct Books – (800)
776-2665).
by Dana L. Marshall…
Traveling with a service dog requires some planning on your part. Whether you travel by car, bus, train, or airplane, you are allowed to take your service dog with you. It just requires some planning.
Airline Travel
Traveling by airline takes a bit of planning. When you call for a reservation, do NOT mention your service dog. Airlines have been known to say that a flight is full when someone has said they are bringing their service dog with them. Get your reservation, with a confirmation number.
If you would like to sit in bulkhead seating, which may or may not have more legroom, call the airline back in 30 minutes or so, and tell them that you are bringing your service dog with you. You ONLY need to do this if you are requesting bulkhead seating.
The Air Carriers Accessibility Act (ACAA) requires that the airlines get 24 hours notice for requests of bulkhead seating, and 48 hours notice for an on-board wheelchair to use an inaccessible lavatory. Except for the bulkhead seating issue, you will need to contact the airline 48 hours in advance. My suggestion is to tell the airline after you have your confirmation number, just call them back. This way you don’t have to remember to call them 24 or 48 hours before your flight. However, you do NOT have to sit in bulkhead if you don’t want to. Many persons with guide dogs prefer to sit in regular coach seating. The airlines, however, are taking the ACAA to the extreme, in demanding that passengers sit in bulkhead whether they want to or not. However, airlines can restrict seating in the following case: “Carriers must permit a service animal to accompany a traveler with a disability to any seat in which the person sits, unless the animal obstructs an aisle or other area that must remain clear in order to facilitate an emergency evacuation, in which case the passenger will be assigned another seat.”
In regards to restricted seating, the ACAA says, “Airlines may not keep anyone out of a seat on the basis of disabilty, or require anyone to sit in a particular seat on the basis of disability, except as an FAA safety rule requires. FAA’s rule on exit row seating says that carriers may place in exit rows only persons who can perform a series of functions necessary in an emergency evacuation.” The airlines may also move a passenger “If a service animal cannot be accommodated at the passenger’s assigned seat, the carrier shall offer to move the passenger to an alternative seat that can accommodate the animal.”
Airlines have consistantly turned their bulkhead seating into exit row seating, therefore, reducing the places that a disabled person can sit with their service dog. And airlines expect you to place your feet, or allow others to place their feet on your dog when they fly, by seating people in seats next to you, or making you put your dog right where YOUR feet go. This is NOT allowed, and you should never do this. If the airline has bulkhead seating that doesn’t give you enough room for your dog, or the bulkhead seating is unavailable due to it being an exit row, demand to speak with the CRO and ask that the airline NOT place anyone next to you (could be the two seats in your row, even and if they won’t do that, then ask to be moved to first class. It’s not YOUR fault the airlines are deliberately reducing bulkhead seating space, and trying to make it so a disabled person has to place their dog in an uncomfortable position.
If the airline refuses, contact me and we can deal with the issue at a later date. Unfortunately, the ACAA doesn’t give the provision that attorney’s fees are paid by the losing party, so most disabled won’t be able to afford to sue the airlines and the airlines KNOW this, and take advantage of it.
If you’re going to be sitting in regular coach, or first class, you can just show up at the airport with your dog. The ACAA says that “Carriers must permit dog guides or other service animals with appropriate identification to accompany an individual with a disability on a flight. Identification may include cards or other documentation, presence of a harness or markings on a harness, tags, or the credible verbal assurance of the passenger using the animal.” This means they can not demand an ID card if your dog is dressed in a harness, or cape, or if you tell them the dog is a service dog. However, if you have a psychiatric disability, the ACAA does allow airlines to ask for a letter from your doctor stating you have a disability and that you require the presence of a animal for your well-being. This is if you have an emotional support animal ONLY, not if you have a service dog, trained to mitigate your disability. The airlines do not have the right to know what your disability is.
People with disabilities have the right to pre board the aircraft prior to all other passengers. Airlines typically begin boarding 30 minutes before the scheduled flight time. Therefore to pre board and get settled with your service dog you should arrive at the gate no less than 40 minutes before flight time. You should inform the gate agent of your desire to pre board and then stay near the gate so that you can be located for pre boarding.
You do not need a health certificate for your service dog. These certificates are only required for dogs shipped as CARGO. This is an undue hardship to require such a certificate (which typically are only good for 10 days), when travelling in the US.
In passing through security checkpoints at airports, you must allow the airport personnel to either use a hand wand (if they have one) to pass over you, or to hand search you. This is for the safety of all persons in the airport, and even though you’re disabled, you have to go through the same thing. Your dog is also supposed to be searched. If your dog is wearing detachable backpacks, remove them and put them through the X-Ray machine. If your dog has backpacks that can’t be removed (without undressing the dog), request that the airport personnel do a hand check of your dog and his equipment. Many personnel will not want to touch your dog, but I demand it, because they need to know that they have to check EVERYONE.
The Transportation Security Administation has a page that addresses the security issue for those with disabilities.
Aircraft of more than 100 seats are required to provide priority in cabin storage space for at least one folding wheelchair. Smaller aircraft are also required to provide such in cabin storage if they have a closet large enough to hold a folded wheelchair. Wheelchairs have priority over all other luggage and items unless the aircraft has passengers on board with baggage stored in the closet from a prior stop on the flight. Wheelchair have priority over first class passengers’ luggage and the luggage of the flight crew and the cabin crew.
Here is a PDF copy of the Air Carriers Act for download… Air Carrier Access Act. This requires Adobe Acrobat reader. Right click on it to save to your own computer.
Tips
If your dog hasn’t flown before, then you should visit the airport and take your dog around to get him accustomed to the sounds and smells. Go to the airline that you will be flying on and ask if there is any way to let you and your dog onto a plane that is on the ground. Some airlines will do this, so you may go aboard and get your dog accustomed to the narrowness of the aisles, and such.
Bring a blanket with you for your dog to lay on, as the floors of aircraft can be cold. Provide your dog with a chew toy to occupy him during take off and landing, when the engine sounds are extremely loud.
Pack your dog’s food in your luggage, with a 1 or 2 day supply in your carry on luggage, or in your dog’s pack. Also consider using bottled water, so that your dog doesn’t have problems with the local water (diarrhea).
Your mobility devices do not count against the two pieces of carry on luggage everyone is allowed to take on the plane. I have traveled with my service dog, a pair of crutches, my manual wheelchair, and cushion. On my dog, were backpacks, with a blanket, food, water, extra leashes, chew toys and treats.
Pre-board with your dog so you can get him settled before the other passengers board. Once he’s on his blanket, give him a chew toy to play with while the other passengers board. He will most likely be interested in all the people going by, as this vehicle is like nothing he’s ever seen before.
Dogs do not have the ear problems that humans have, so they don’t need to chew anything when flying. The chew toy distracts them from the engine sounds and from the fact that the floor just tilted sharply!
Do not give your dog food and water in the morning, so that he won’t have to potty, during the flight. Before you enter the airport, give your dog a chance to take care of business, and then check in. If you have connecting flights, make sure there is enough time for you to take your dog potty before your next flight leaves. Airline and airport personnel do not have to take your dog out for a walk, that is YOUR responsibility, however, I know many airline personnel that love to do so, and will ask you if they can.
If you use the above link, take out the -REMOVE in the email address.
*Copyright © 1998-2007 Dana L. Marshall
Have you Seen This Lost Dog? She was lost 7/24/09 in Richmond Heights near Bellevue and I-64/40.
She may have been spotted later near Laclede Station Rd. and Hanley.. Name: Originally Lady, now Gidgee About 40 pounds Tri-colored Australian Shepherd.
No Tail Very sweet but frightened.
If you chase her, she might run. Microchipped and wearing tags: Call with any sightings.
Reward 314-726-2209 or 636-671-7223
PLEASE donate to pet rescueI had to share.. would have saved me when I lived in Manhattan with dogs! Oh.. this is not an ad…
I had clients that have “shake cans” on the sofa (to keep the dog off ), hidden under pillows and outside the door for visitors to shake as they enter the home to prevent jumping.. be sure to use a command with the shake of the can so that you will eventually be able to go sans can..
SHAKE CAN
This is a wonderful NON physical & very effective CORRECTION tool. Take a cola can, put 10 pennies, bolts, screws, nails, etc.in the can. I really like metal on metal rather than stones or rocks. Put duct tape over the opening to prevent items from flying out.
When your dog engages in a behavior you wish to stop, SHAKE the can ONCE. This is once UP/DOWN. You do not shake, shake, shake the can. If you do, the dog will quickly desensitize to the startle/stop effect of the sudden, unpleasant sound.
When you use the shake can on an undesirable behavior, your dog will startle/stop the behavior & look around for the offending NOISE. Use this break in the behavior to give them the desired command & then praise. NO BARK, GOOD NO BARK…. NO CHEW, GOOD NO CHEW….NO DIG, GOOD NO DIG…etc.
Do not be surprised when your dog, almost immediately, “resumes” the behavior. Be prepared & repeat the shake can process. As with any behavior modification process, it will take numerous repetitions to successfully “modify” a particular behavior. This is NO DIFFERENT than it is with people. Therefore, you must be patient & above all….CONSISTENT!!! Every time you allow a dog to ENGAGE in a behavior you are trying to modify or stop…UNCORRECTED, you are allowing a “reinforcement” of that behavior. This will only ADD time, confusion, & frustration to the modification process. This is unpleasant for you & exceedingly UNFAIR to your dog. DON’T MAKE THINGS HARDER ON YOU OR YOUR DOG!!!!!
You can possibly speed up your behavior modification process by using an additional step. As soon as your dog ceases the offending behavior & they have gotten their NO____, GOOD NO____…..immediately, try to DIVERT their attention to another fun, pleasant stimulus. This could be getting them to play with a toy…with you. There is no better reward than getting to play with Mom or Dad.
Do not consider each “infraction” as backsliding. Instead, consider it one more OPPORTUNITY to correct/modify the behavior. Each of these OPPORTUNITIES, gets you closer, faster to ultimate SUCCESS!!! For pups & new older dogs, I make up several shake cans & strategically place them throughout my home & on the patio. In this way, I have access to the shake can correction WHEREVER/WHENEVER it occurs. I want to take advantage of EVERY opportunity to advance the behavior modification process.
The shake can is especially effective because the dogs do not associate the “correction” with you. Therefore, they do not have to “think” WHY? WHAT? Rather, they more quickly associate the correction with the actual BEHAVIOR. This means, they will more quickly understand that it is the BEHAVIOR that is causing the correction. The allows the behavior to become “self-correcting”, which is the most effective correction.
or said in a different way:
The “no bark” exercise
First, select a silencing command: it can be “Quiet” or “No bark!” or any word you prefer, as long as you use it consistently.
Prepare a few shake cans and place them around the house. A shake can is a can (an empty soda can is perfect) into which you have sealed some pennies or pebbles. When you shake the can, the hard objects hit the side, making a startling noise that serve to interrupt the dog’s inappropriate behavior.
When your dog or puppy starts to bark, give your silencing command and then shake the can until the barking stops. The noise should startle your dog into silence, at which point, you should praise him lavishly. Repeat the procedure as many times as necessary until he doesn’t start barking again.
We adopted “Jackie Brown”, a 3 year old “ROTTERMAN” (Dobe/Rottie mix) a month ago. She only wanted to relieve herself on grass. We need her to use the paving stones so not to ruin the lawn. My neighbor said that “you can’t teach old dogs new tricks”! I took that as a challenge.
Treating “Jackie Brown” as if she were a new puppy in our home, we had success in one week.
I do want to mention that changing a dogs personality traits is not usually possible. But the behavior, such as, aggression or submission can be altered and controlled.
A good article I found below:
We’ve all heard the old adage, “You can’t teach an old dog new tricks.” But is it true? Any pet can be trained — at any age. You need the right training, the right information and the right tools. The number one reason pets end up in shelters is because of behavior problems, so good training is important for the relationship between you and your pet.
Many experts, including the accredited instructors at PETsMART, believe that using positive reinforcement techniques will give you and your dog the best results. Training should be fun and positive, for both dog and owner, and the focus should be on rewarding good behavior, not punishing unwanted behavior. It’s important to understand that every time you interact with your dog, you’re training him whether you know it or not. Sometimes it only takes simple adjustments in the way you interact with your dog to make big changes in your relationship with your furry friend.
Knowing what not to do is also important. Training is supposed to be fun, so if you begin to feel frustrated or angry, discontinue the training session.
“Owners should not have unreasonable expectations for their relationship with their dog,” says Vicki Smith, director of pet training for PETsMART, Inc. “For example, people send their children to school for 12 years of formal education to get ‘the basics,’ but think that investing 12 weeks to train their dog is unreasonable. All good relationships require a bit of work.”
Classes taught by knowledgeable pet trainers and behaviorists at PETsMART help pet owners understand dog behavior. From these experts, you will receive good information on how to communicate with your dog. Your dog will learn basic behaviors such as “sit” or “down,” but you will also receive a basic understanding of how that learning took place. This way, you can teach your dog something new without professional help. But remember that a one-hour class each week will not be enough unless you follow up at home. You should leave class each week confident about how to practice the lessons at home.
Group training classes can also teach your dog some important social skills. Because they are “social pack” animals, dogs who are not properly socialized sometimes respond with fear, excessive exuberance or even aggression when they eventually do interact with other dogs. Un-socialized dogs may respond to people the same way. With the growing popularity of activities that can include dogs, such as dog parks, shopping with your dog, dog birthday parties and weddings, having a dog that responds appropriately in the company of other dogs makes time with your pet more enjoyable.
Pets can add a tremendous amount of love and joy to your life. By taking the time to train your dog properly, you give him the chance to become your best friend instead of a burden. This leaves less time for punishing your pet and more time playing with them.
Pet Airways: Where the Fur Flies
Pet-Oriented Airline Will Take Dogs and Cats Airborne, Starting at $149
By MATT HOSFORD, ANDY MILLER and LEE FERRAN
July 9, 2009 —
There’s a new airline that has no security lines, no middle seats and flight attendants who even take customers for a walk before they fly. The only catch? You’ve got to be a dog or a cat — no humans allowed.
Pet Airlines will get the fur flying next week when it begins service as the country’s first pet-only airline.
The airline’s launch is the culmination of an idea from pet owner Alissa Binder and her husband, Dan Wiesel, after they took their aging Jack Russell, Jack, on a cross-country flight. Like other pets, Jack had to fly in the cargo bay.
“We were totally stressed out,” Wiesel said. “We didn’t know if she was on the flight, didn’t know how she was doing.”
To avoid that stress in the future, the couple leased a plane, hired veterinary technicians to monitor the animals in flight and started advertising their new airline. Starting at $149, pet owners can send their furry friends on flights that provide a preboarding walk and bathroom break.
Pet Airways will initially fetch animals from five cities — New York, Baltimore, Chicago, Denver and Los Angeles.
The planes have no seats and no overhead compartments, and are all designed for creature comfort.
“Our priority is the pets,” Binder said. “It’s about the pets.”
While Pet Airways may be the newest dog on the block, they face competition with major carriers such as Continental, which moves an average of 500 pets every day.
“We’ve got dedicated personnel, constant monitoring 24 hours a day, tracking all animals,” Continental employee Lisa Schoppa said.
Furry Frequent-Flier Miles
Even famous dogs take to the cargo bay when they fly.
Westminster Dog Show champion spaniel Stump has racked up half a million Continental frequent flier miles so far.
Pet Airways plans to offer a similar program. But for now it’ll be busy enough. The airline is booked solid for the next two months as pet owners like Amanda Hickey latch on to the idea of fine flying for her pets.
“I would be a wreck if I had to wait in baggage claim for them to come out at the end,” Hickey said.
Copyright © 2009 ABC News Internet Ventures
Animal behaviorist and vet tech to the stars.. common sense with cats and dogs.. and current animals in the news.. Educational and fun!
You’re currently browsing older “Dogs and Cats 101” Site entries.
Note: This is the end of the usable page. The image(s) below are preloaded for performance only.
