Discover the Truth about Feral Cats A feral cat is not socialized to humans.

Posted April 19th, 2010 by Jan

Get Informed: Discover the Truth about Feral Cats A feral cat is not socialized to humans.

from: Feral Cat Alliance

Though feral cats are members of the domestic cat species and are protected under state anti-cruelty laws, they are typically fearful of humans. Feral cats should not be taken to animal control pounds and shelters. Feral cats’ needs are not met by the current animal control and shelter system, because animals who are not adoptable are killed.

Feral cats live outside, but are killed in shelters. Even no-kill shelters are not able to place feral cats in homes. Learn more about the animal control system. Feral kittens can be adopted. Feral kittens can often be adopted into homes, but they must be socialized at an early age.

There is a critical window, and if they aren’t handled in time, they will remain feral and therefore unadoptable. Learn more about kittens and socialization. Feral cats can have the same lifespan as pet cats. And they are just as healthy, too. The incidence of disease in feral cats is just as low as in pet cats. They live healthy, natural lives on their own, content in their outdoor home.

Humans are the cause of wildlife depletion. Studies show that the overwhelming cause of wildlife depletion is destruction of natural habitat due to manmade structures, chemical pollution, pesticides, and drought — not feral cats. Learn more about the human toll on birds. Catch and kill doesn’t work. Animal control’s endless, cruel cycle is extremely costly to taxpayers. Cats choose to reside in locations for two reasons: there is a food source—(intended or not)—and shelter. When cats are removed from a location, survivors breed to capacity or new cats move in. This vacuum effect is well documented. Trap-Neuter-Return does work. No more kittens.

The population stabilizes and their lives are improved. The behaviors and stresses associated with mating, such as yowling or fighting, stop. The cats are vaccinated before being returned to their outdoor home. Not only does Trap-Neuter-Return make good sense, it is also a responsible, humane method of care for outdoor cats.

Learn more about conducting Trap-Neuter-Return.

my feral site

http://fabulousferalfelines.vox.com/


New Dog In The House – watch 3 minute video before u bring the new dog home

Posted March 28th, 2010 by Jan

Click this  link.. 3 minutes that will change your life..


Dog Or Cat Itching & Scratching?

Posted March 7th, 2010 by Jan

Why Is My Dog Or Cat Itching & Scratching?
Allergies In Your Pet

Ron Hines DVM PhD

Next to fleas, allergies are the most common cause of itching and scratching in your pet.

Also common, are two forms of mange, sarcoptic and demodectic which can also be responsible for hair loss and scratching. Fleas are dealt with in another article in this series and sarcoptic and demodectic mange are also covered elsewhere.

I included a diagram of the flea life cycle here, because over half the cases of allergic skin diseases have fleas – seen or unseen – as the underlying cause. Once you are certain that no fleas or mites are present, it is likely that allergies are the cause of your pet’s scratching. In human beings, allergies are often expressed through the respiratory system. If you yourself have allergies, you are likely to have a stuffy nose, sneezing and watery eyes. This is because the histamines that humans produce are released primarily in the membranes of the respiratory system and eyes. In dogs, histamines are released primarily in the skin.

How Allergies Occur:
All chronic allergies are based on the body recognizing protein substances as foreign and trying to rid itself of them. Mold, dander, bacteria, pollen, flea saliva along with a host of other substances are allergens made up of proteins foreign to the body.
We will talk about pollen allergies for an example because they are so common. In this case pollen is called an allergen – something the body recognizes as foreign. When a pet’s immune system is exposed to pollen for the first time, some pollen attaches to the linings of the nose and lungs . The body’s immune system recognizes that pollen is not supposed to be there and, in response, produces antibodies against the pollen called immunoglobulins of the E class (IgE) and G class (allergen-specific IgG). This process is called sensitization. The IgE attaches to cells in the body called mast cells. These cells then leak and release histamines, bradykinins, and proteolytic enzymes, which cause the symptoms of allergy. In people large numbers of mast cells are located in the respiratory system. That is why our allergies usually have respiratory system symptoms. In dogs and cats, more mast cells are present in the skin. That is why dog and cat allergies usually cause signs associated with the skin and ears such as itching, hives and inflammation. This allergic disease is called atopy. Only 15% of pollen allergies in dogs and cats cause respiratory system signs, such as nasal stuffiness and sneezing.

Types of Allergies:

There are two types of allergies that cause dogs and cats to itch. Because susceptibility to allergies is inherited, it is quite common for pets to have both types.
Canine Inhalant Atopy
This is the type of allergy for which we used pollen as an example. It is the most common form of allergy in dogs and cats, making up over ninety percent of the cases I see. About nine percent of the canine population has this disease. Certain breeds are more susceptible to than others. Among the most susceptible are Shar-peis, Fox Terriers, Golden Retrievers, West Highland White Terriers, Scottish Terriers, Shih Tzus, Dalmatians, Lhasa Apsos, Boston Terriers and Labrador Retrievers. Cats of any breed can be affected. Dogs usually show their first signs of itching between 10 months and 4 years. If a dog does not have this condition by the time it is four years of age it is unlikely that it will ever have atopic skin disease. The disease often begins as a seasonal problem but after a number of years (or moving to a southern climate) the itching occurs year round. Some common allergens are flea saliva, tree, grass and shrub pollens, house dust, mold, dust mites, and feathers.
Flea saliva allergy is a special form of Atopy. Fleas survive by sucking blood from your pets. To get this blood they drill their mouthparts into the dog or cat’s skin and inject special anticoagulant saliva into the site to keep blood flowing while they engorge. This saliva is highly irritating to some dogs and cats. These pets do not only itch at the site of the flea bites, they itch all over. The pads of their feet are often itchy, puffy and inflamed. Areas between the toe pads as well as the ears often become infected with bacteria due to the pets constant licking and chewing. Because of the availability of excellent flea-control products such as Advantage and Frontline, I see less flea allergy than I used to.

Food Allergies:

Food allergy cases are less than fifteen percent as common as canine atopy but occur with about the same frequency as atopy in cats. The itching food allergies produce is constant throughout the year. Cocker Spaniels, West Highland White Terriers and Labrador Retrievers are particularly susceptible to food allergies. However, the majority of these breeds that have itching problems do not have food allergies. Dogs and cats can be any age older that a few months when signs first begin. Some common food allergies in dogs are to beef and pork, fish, dairy, eggs, corn, soy, wheat and preservatives and dyes in food and treats. But almost any diet ingredient can be involved. The most common allergens in cats are to fish, beef and chicken.

Symptoms:

Canine Atopy and food allergies are not visually distinguishable because the signs of both diseases are the same. The most common sign of the conditions is constant itching, scratching and licking. Dogs will often rub on objects. The degree of discomfort the pet undergoes is partly dependent on its temperament. High strung breeds and very active pets do severe damage to their skin. The face, lumbar area at the base of the tail (particularly if fleas are the cause) ears and paws show the most damage. In severe cases the skin of the whole body is inflamed and covered in crusts while the hair coat is thin and broken. In mild cases the pets only lick these areas, discoloring light hair coats with salivary stain. When fleas are the problem, small pepper-like granules are present over the neck or in the dorsolumbar area. These specks of digested blood or flea dirt will “bleed” a rust-colored trail if moved to white tissue paper and wetted with water.

As the dog or cat scratches, it destroys the outer waxy layer of the skin. This allows bacteria and mold to enter the skin and causes a musty, oily skin condition called seborrhea. Because ears are covered with skin, ear canal redness, odor and inflammation are common in canine atopy. Sometimes ear problems are the only sign present. When this is the case, we treat the ears with specific antibiotic, antifungal, corticosteroid preparations but must treat the whole dog with medications as well.

Cats develop a condition called milliary dermatitis in which the surface of the back and scruff of the neck are covered with bumps and scabs. Allergic cats sometimes develop another condition called eosinophilic granuloma complex in which ulcers form on the lips, tongue and surface of the body. After months and years of scratching, the skin of the inner thighs and flank often becomes thickened and blackish. This condition is called acanthosis nigricans.

Damaged skin due to the pets scratching often leads to superficial staphylococcus bacterial infections (pyoderma) and infection with the yeast, Malassezia. Mild bacterial conjunctivitis or eye infections with greenish matter at the inner corner of the eye are common. It is important to realize that although a bacterial or fungus condition is present and may need treatment, the root of the problem is allergic dermatitis. In very severe cases of skin allergy, the superficial lymph nodes of the body enlarge due to secondary skin infections.

Diagnosis of Allergic Skin Problems:

The clinical diagnosis of allergic dermatitis is one of exclusion of other causes of skin disease. I usually do skin scrapings when pets with this condition are presented to me for the first time. Through skin scrapings, I try to rule out mange as a cause of the pet’s problems and locate bacteria and fungi. If I cannot rule out mange, if the dog’s history suggests it might be mange, or other members of the household are itching, I may put the pet on a test dose of a safe anti mange medicine called ivermectin. I next try to rule out fleas as the source of the problem. Some dogs are so good at grooming that no fleas remain on them when they are examined. Even when I cannot locate fleas on the pet I can often locate flea dirt. In some of these pets the presence of tapeworms is the only indication of fleas or I may find fleas on another household pet, which does not have skin problems.

There are other signs that the problem may be allergic. Typically atopy occurs in dogs between one and three years of age. This makes the diagnosis of allergies in puppies and older dogs less likely. The first two or three years that the condition exists it is often seasonal occurring only in the spring and summer months. Flea-related allergies tend to subside after the first few freezes of the winter. Golden retrievers and arctic breeds with thick oily hair are susceptible to a special form of dermatitis called hot spots or acute pyotraumatic dermatitis. In these cases the dogs suddenly become extremely itchy over a small area. They are so troubled that they pull out the fur of this area and infect it through chewing in a matter of hours. The itching sensation departs rapidly thereafter -with or without treatment. It is not known if they represent a true form of allergy. Another form of the disease is called acral lick dermatitis. In these cases a small area of skin itches over an extended period. Licking leads to a well-defined small area of raw skin, scarring and bacterial infection.

I try to learn if the parents of the dog or cat or its brothers and sisters also have itchy skin disease. Canine atopy as well as food allergies runs in families.

In diagnosing food allergies I look for uniform involvement of the skin over the entire body. I rarely find that diarrhea accompanies food allergies. Often the best way to rule out food allergies is to put the pet on a sixty to ninety day trial eating a hypoallergenic diet exclusively. Many hypoallergenic diets are available. Until recently these diets relied on novel protein sources such as lamb, venison duck or fish. The problem is that with time, pets eventually became allergic to these diets too. Now two brands of hypoallergenic diets are available that use heat and hydrolysis to break food proteins into a size too small to cause allergies (less than 10,000 daltons). The biggest problem with these diets is that some pets won’t eat them.

I will usually examine pets with skin disease in a darkened room with an ultraviolet lamp. Hairs that glow are diagnostic for ringworm. Ringworm is almost never itchy and glowing hairs are not found in cases of allergic skin disease.

Il often encounter Malassezia yeast in skin scrapings of dogs with itchy skin. This fungus is a normal inhabits the skin of dogs. It only becomes a problem when the pet has an underlying problem such as allergic skin disease. Antifungal shampoos are quite helpful in controlling it.

Allergy Tests

Rast Test (In-vitro (laboratory) test, performed on your pet’s blood)

As in humans, allergy testing can be helpful in diagnosing allergic skin disease. Two forms of allergy testing are available. The easiest and most commonly performed test in animal hospitals is called the RAST test. This test, which is performed on a blood sample from your pet, stands for radioallergosorbent test. In the test, the presence of IgE antibodies to specific antigens is determined by a central laboratory. Pets must not have had corticosteroids or antihistamines administered for thirty days prior to testing. The problem with this test is its high number of false positives. If the test determines that a pet is not allergic to an antigen – that is probably correct. But positive reactions often turn out to be wrong. If the RAST test is used, the central laboratory will prepare an antigen extract, which can be injected into the pet’s skin periodically to decrease the effects of allergies. The most current research indicates that this test extremely inaccurate in pets and humans. Go with skin tests if at all possible.

Skin Test

A more reliable test is an intradermal skin test. Before the test is administered, the pet is taken off all corticosteroid, tranquilizing or antihistamine medications for 30-60 days. In this test, small amounts of various allergens are injected into the skin. The entire side of the pet must be shaven to perform this test. Then the injection sites are monitored over an hour’s period to judge the degree of redness and swelling at each site. A list of offending antigens is used to prepare an allergen extract, which is injected periodically into the pet. With time and success, these injections lessen the pet’s allergies to these allergens. Because a high degree of skill is necessary in giving and interpreting the results of this test, veterinary dermatologists usually perform it.

Occasionally, when I am uncertain if the problem is a routine case of allergy, I will take a biopsy specimen of the skin involved and send it to a pathologist for evaluation and diagnosis. This can rule out the presence of other disease such as lupus. Blood tests may detect elevated levels of eosinophiles, which occasionally also occur in allergic skin disease.

Treatment of Allergic Skin Disease:

It is next to impossible to avoid all the environmental allergens that plague allergy-prone dogs and cats. The exceptions are pets that are chiefly bothered by fleas. I enforce strict flea control – even if I am uncertain that fleas are present. Many dogs and cats are cured by this simple task alone.

Approximately one in twenty of my clients elect to undergo skin testing and desensitization of their pets. This figure differs from practice to practice. The procedure takes a bit over a year to show results. Dermatologists argue for the procedure pointing out, correctly so, that even if desensitization does not cure the pets, it may lower the dose of corticosteroids they require later in the disease. Skin testing also identifies the allergens and perhaps some of them can be avoided or eliminated from the pet’s environment. The procedure is extensive, expensive, and requires a life-long commitment to frequent injections. Most owners learn to give these injections themselves.

Medicines of the cortisone class are effective and dramatic in controlling the symptoms of allergic skin disease. The problem is that this class of drugs has substantial and serious side effects when given in high doses or over extended periods of time. My challenge is to treat these pets as long as I can without the use of these steroids. To do so, I use medications that are effective but less dramatically so.

Medicated Shampoos.

Medicated shampoos are quite soothing to inflamed skin and lessen itching. I begin using clear tar preparations such as lye tar shampoos. If these are not adequate, I dispense selenium sulfide or benzyl peroxide shampoos. Benzyl peroxide is quite effective in eliminating secondary bacterial infections in these cases. Some pets are helped by oatmeal and antihistamine shampoos. With all these products, the skin should first be cleansed with soapless soaps and then the medicated product massaged in and allowed a long contact period with the skin – the longer the better. Weekly shampooing along with flea control is often sufficient for a number of years. Some pets cannot tolerate weekly bathing as it dries out their skin too much. Use of a skin conditioning rinse helps in some cases. Also, use temperate, not hot water, when you bath your pets.

Antihistamines and tranquilizers

Antihistamines block the release of histamines by mast cells. They are quite helpful to some pets. Unfortunately, the effects are not as dramatic as in humans. Ciproheptadine given twice a day, hydroxyzine or even OTC Chlorpheniramine maleate are effective in lessening symptoms in some dogs and cats. Many antihistamines have a calming effect in dogs. I have had cat owners discontinue their use because they did not like personality changes in their cats while on these medications. Some antihistamines can be applied in shampoo form. Some dogs do well when given mild tranquilizers such as acepromazine at 0.25mg/ pound.

Corticosteroids

Many owners are worried when we suggest that their pets receive measured doses of corticosteroids to treat stubborn allergy cases. They should not be. These drugs have nearly miraculous powers in both human and animal medicine. They just should not be over used. Some drugs of the cortisone class are prednisolone, prednisone, triamcinolone, dexamethasone, beclomethasone, and betamethasone. Often I use so little of these drugs that a bit of itching persists but at a tolerable level. I usually give prednisolone or prednisone two or three times a week. At a low dose I do not encounter noticeable side effects. There will often be a point, many years into the disease, when higher cortisone doses are required. Combining topical medications, antihistamines, desensitization and cortisone let us keep the cortisone dose as low as possible. I do not feel that I have ever used cortisone to an extent that an allergic pets life was shortened although some have suffered weight gain. I do know that the use of these drugs has greatly improved the quality of many pets’ lives. Whenever possible, the use of long acting corticosteroids such as methylprednisolone acetate should be limited to a single yearly injection or oral forms of corticosteroids used instead. You may notice that your pet drinks more and urinates more on these medications. If they are over used a disease called Cushings Syndrome or hyperadrenocorticism can result (see article on that subject).

Antibiotics

Dogs that are presented to me with severe bacterial skin infections subsequent to self- trauma (scratching) need a two-week course of antibiotics to clear up the infection. I like to use a broad-spectrum antibiotic such as one of the fluroquinolones (Batryl) or a potentiated cephalosporin such as Clavamox (Augmentin). I begin antihistamines and medicated shampoos in these cases immediately but I delay any corticosteroids until the skin has healed. If yeasts are an important component of the problem I treat them with ketaconazole shampoos.

Food Supplements

There are a very large number of “neutraceutical” products marketed for allergic skin disease. Many of them have never been scientifically tested. The best that can be said of many of these products is that they can do no harm. When I recommend these products, I usually suggest one that combines omega-3 and omega-6 fatty acids. Many of these products also contain zinc. Some clients find them beneficial.

Distractions

No matter what the underlying cause of itching is in your pet, boredom, inactivity and unoccupied time will make it worse. It is not unusual for the underlying cause of itching to be eliminated by your veterinarian, only to have the pet continue to scratch and lick itself from force of habit. To minimize this, give your pets plenty of distractions. Hidden food morsels, toys and chew toys, walks, play time, other pets, and view through a porch, kennel or window all take your pet’s mind off of its skin. Try these distractions, and others you might think of, before you resort to tranquilizers and mood-altering medications.

Your Pet’s Future:

Allergic dermatitis is a life long condition. Unless the problem is solely fleas there are no cures. Luckily it is not a life threatening or a life shortening condition and it can be managed with a minimum of inconvenience. Often, there will be periods of a year or more when the disease is not as severe and needs less or no medications. When a family moves the disease is often left behind. Unfortunately not too much time passes at their new location before the pet becomes allergic to new allergens. Because this is an inherited trait, pets with this disease should never be bred. The fact that so many pets suffer from allergic skin disease shows that many breeders disregard this advice.


Are You Sure Your Pet Bird Gets All the Nutrients He Needs?

Posted February 11th, 2010 by Jan

from  Dr. Karen Becker

Are You Sure Your Pet Bird Gets All the Nutrients He Needs?

Jan’s 23 year old Huey and Seattle Seattle and Huey

Calling all bird owners!

In this short video, Dr. Karen Becker shares her tips for a balanced, nutritious diet that will have your pet bird feeling and looking his best.

Pet bird nutrition has evolved over the last half century.

Once upon a time bird owners were told all they needed to feed their pets were fortified seed diets. When my avian veterinarian 30 years ago suggested I add legumes and fresh veggies to the all seed diet I fed my birds, I assumed I was offering my flock the best diet imaginable.

Nowadays, much more is known about the specific nutritional requirements of domesticated birds.

Whether your bird is a psittacine such as a budgie parakeet, cockatiel, or a macaw, or a passerine like a finch or canary, you can dramatically influence the health and behavior of your feathered companion by feeding a balanced, nutritious diet.

If You’re Still Feeding a Seed-Based Diet, It’s Time for a Change

Today, your avian veterinarian is likely to recommend you replace your bird’s seed-based diet with a much more nutritious pelleted-based diet — preferably organic, dye and chemical free.

These diets come in the form of pellets, crumbles or nuggets. You can find them easily at pet stores, vet offices, and online. The formulations differ depending on what type of bird you have, so you’ll want to choose a blend suitable for your pet.

If you own a macaw or a Golden conure, for example, you’ll probably choose a formulation with a higher fat content. If your pet is an Amazon or perhaps a cockatoo, you’ll want to choose a diet low in fat and higher in protein.

If you’re not sure which formulation is best for your bird, check with your avian veterinarian.

To round out the pelleted diet and balance your bird’s nutritional intake, I recommend you add the following items:

  • Fresh fruits and veggies, preferably organic
  • Legumes and whole grain pasta
  • Whole, unsalted raw nuts
  • Seeds, but they should account for no more than 30 percent of the diet

Tips for Adding Fresh Fruits and Vegetables

As every bird owner knows, your pet can be quite finicky when it comes to her food.

If your bird is used to a seed or pellet diet, you should anticipate a period during which the fruits and veggies you offer her will wind up everywhere but in her mouth.

Don’t be surprised if your bird drops her healthy fresh food out of the cage or flings it against a wall. She may play with it, shred it, or ignore it completely. And this behavior may go on for several months, but don’t despair.

This is where your patience and persistence will pay off. Your bird might be finicky, but she’s also naturally inquisitive. Given time and the consistent presence of a new food, most birds will eventually be curious enough to sample, and then begin to eat it.

There are a wide variety of vegetables you can add to your bird’s diet, including:

Broccoli Eggplant Peppers (sweet) Sugar snap or snow peas
Carrots Endive Radicchio Squash
Cauliflower Green Beans Radishes Sweet potatoes
Collard greens Kale Red potatoes (cooked) Tomatoes
Corn Kohlrabi Red beets (peeled) Turnips
Cucumber Parsley Romaine lettuce Turnip and beet greens

Healthy fruits you can incorporate include:

Apples Cantaloupe Oranges
Apricots Cherries Peaches
Banana Cranberries Pears
Berries Grapes Pineapple

Does Your Bird Have Any of These Problems?

As pet bird nutrition science has continued to improve, birds are living longer, healthier lives.

However, over the years I noticed something about many of the domesticated birds I saw at Feathers Bird Clinic, my avian hospital. It seemed even high quality nutrition wasn’t enough to eliminate certain health and behavior problems, including:

  • Dull feather coat with poor pigmentation
  • Excessive powder down
  • Flaky beak and nails
  • Over grooming and self-mutilation
  • Itchy, irritated skin
  • Toe-tapping, wind-flapping and feather picking

I realized that even with the great strides made in understanding pet bird nutrition, something was still amiss when it came to providing optimal wellness for birds living in captive environments.

Birds in the wild get a much wider variety of nutrition than domesticated birds. They have access to types of seeds and berries, for example, which are simply impossible for you to provide to your companion bird.

Wild birds also have natural sunlight, complete freedom of movement, and the ability to create their own preferred habitats. These are things your pet living inside your home does not have, even though many avian owners do a wonderful job simulating as closely as possible a natural environment for their birds.

Your Feathered Companion Might be Deficient in This Important Nutrient

Around the time I was trying to solve the puzzle of why even nutritionally sound birds continued to experience certain health challenges, I was also coming to terms with the fact that I needed more fatty acids in my own diet.

These were seemingly unrelated circumstances, however, it occurred to me it might be that my birds and many others I saw at my avian hospital weren’t getting a healthy supply of fatty acids, either.

As soon as I began supplementing my flock’s diet with essential fatty acids, I noticed several improvements. My African gray’s dull tail, which also had a stress bar (a horizontal black line devoid of color or pigment), became a vibrant red color and the stress marks disappeared.

My umbrella cockatoo’s flaky beak and very dry feet improved.

And my eclectus with the dull green feathers, some of which were actually black, returned to his wonderful bright green hue.

I noticed a dramatic improvement not only in the condition and appearance of my flock’s feathers, but also in their attitudes and behaviors. They were better able to focus, and in fact, my African gray’s vocabulary began to expand.

The remarkable positive changes I witnessed in my flock made me understand my birds had been dealing with the same fatty acid deficiency I was.

If your bird has any of the problems I listed above and you’re feeding an appropriate pelleted diet plus the add-ons I mentioned, he might be lacking in essential fatty acids. These fatty acids are called “essential” because they must come from the diet – neither humans nor birds make them naturally.

What Kind of Essential Fatty Acids Does My Bird Need?

Humans can supplement their diets with fish-based oil like krill oil to get essential fatty acids.

But pet birds and psittacines in particular, are natural vegetarians. They can eat certain bugs and lizards (black palm cockatoos in the wild have been reported to consume some types of lizards), but in general, domesticated birds are not carnivores.

Carnivorous birds are called raptors and include hawks, eagles and falcons. Raptors do require meat as part of a balanced, nutrient-rich diet.

When I started giving my flock coconut oil as their fatty acid supplement, the changes were dramatic. Three months after I added the oil to their diets, the condition of their feather coats was remarkably improved.

Six months and a full molt later, they looked like different birds – so much so that I documented the changes in pictures. I also started recommending coconut oil to clients at my avian clinic.

One of my colleagues, Dr. Greg Harrison, has produced  a derivative from  a certain palm berry called red palm oil or dende oil. This oil is very high in beta-carotenes or carotinoids which supply natural vitamin A.

If you own a colorful bird, the vitamin A from red palm oil can enhance the vibrancy of your bird’s plumage, in addition to enhancing his immune function.

I recommend you offer your bird a small amount of coconut or red palm oil every day to insure his essential fatty acid requirements are met. I think you’ll be delighted at the changes you’ll see in his plumage and the health and condition of his feather coat.

Less obvious but just as important will be the improvement in your bird’s immune system function, which will lead to a longer, healthier life for your avian companion.


A catfight over neutering program

Posted January 17th, 2010 by Jan

latimes.com/news/local/la-me-feral-cats17-2010jan17,0,1225635.story

A catfight over neutering program

51664621
Bird lovers take issue with a city-subsidized nonprofit in Sun Valley that traps, sterilizes and then releases feral cats, saying it violates state environmental laws and doesn’t reduce the population

By Kimi Yoshino

January 17, 2010

The line forms even before the doors open at FixNation in Sun Valley. The trappers come, five days a week, back seats and trunks loaded with feral cats. Inside is a highly organized production line: On an average day, about 80 cats will be neutered, then released 24 hours later into the neighborhoods they came from.

This largely volunteer effort seeks to control a problem that vexes cities everywhere: how to manage homeless, free-roaming cats — thought to number at least 1 million in Los Angeles — while trying to avoid euthanizing them.

But the Audubon Society and other bird and wildlife groups say the program violates state environment laws. And what’s more, they contend it isn’t reducing the number of feral cats, which prey on many types of birds.

So the bird people took the city to court, much to the dismay of the cat people. Last month, after a daylong trial, a Los Angeles Superior Court judge sided with the plaintiffs, and it recently issued an injunction barring the city from subsidizing or promoting the trap-neuter-release program until environmental studies are completed.

In the long-playing Sylvester-vs.-Tweety battles, score a big one for the birds.

“The latest estimates are that there are about . . . 160 million feral cats [nationwide],” said Steve Holmer, senior policy advisor of the American Bird Conservancy, one of the groups that sued the city of Los Angeles. “It’s conservatively estimated that they kill about 500 million birds a year.”

But Judge Thomas McKnew Jr.’s decision sent a chill through cat advocates, who fear it could discourage municipalities across the nation from employing trap-neuter-release as a way to reduce shelter killings.

“There will be diminished public awareness of the homeless cat situation and the trap-neuter-release solution,” said Mark Dodge, founder of the nonprofit FixNation. “More homeless cats get abandoned, get ignored. It will probably mean more euthanasias of cats in shelters.”

In addition to barring city vouchers that offset the cost of neutering, the city cannot release feral cats from shelters to organizations like FixNation; conduct public outreach about the program; refer complaints about feral cats to trap-neuter-release groups; or waive cat-trap rental fees. (In the last fiscal year, the city spent about $240,000 subsidizing 8,000 surgeries for stray cats.)

City animal control officials declined to comment. The deputy city attorney on the case did not return repeated phone calls.

Not surprisingly, the ruling set off a flurry of emotional rhetoric.

In one online petition expressing outrage over the “ill-advised ruling,” signer Joanna Milkowski quoted Gandhi: “A nation’s greatness is measured by how it treats its weakest members.” Another called on people to “Help the Babies!!!!”

Dodge even suggested that these bird groups are “extremists” who “need to be marginalized” just like “Islamic jihadists.”

“It’s ugly; it’s gotten very vicious,” said Travis Longcore of the Urban Wildlands Group, one of the organizations that sued the city on behalf of the birds. “It’s not like we’ve got a vendetta here. This is a real environmental issue, a real public health issue.”

Although neutering and releasing the cats “appeals to the illusion of a win-win situation,” Longcore said, the birds and other wildlife are losing out. “The fact is, you decide not to kill cats and instead you kill wildlife.”

Those cats, Longcore said, often are diseased. And when colonies are fed, the practice often attracts more cats, either from around the neighborhood or because people dump new cats.

At San Pedro’s Cabrillo Beach, a feral cat colony resides near where snowy plovers nest, said Garry George, conservation chairman for the Los Angeles Audubon Society. At San Francisco’s Golden Gate Park, George said, feral cats have wiped out the California quail population. And in San Diego, feral cats roam free near a habitat for the California least tern, which officials are trying to monitor and protect, he said.

But even if environmental reviews are conducted, the question at the core of the dispute would remain: Does neutering feral cats effectively reduce their numbers?

Longcore, in a paper published in the scientific journal Conservation Biology, suggests that it does not, making him a prime target for cat lovers.

He cited two studies, including one in the Journal of the American Veterinary Medical Assn., that used mathematical models to determine that 71% to 94% of the cats in a colony must be neutered in order for the numbers to decline. In two feral colonies monitored in Florida, Longcore reported, the population actually increased because people dumped new cats.

In Los Angeles County, the environmental health department said that the approach has been “collectively ineffectual” and that all county-monitored colonies had significantly increased in number. Gail VanGordon, chief of the county’s vector management program, said that in addition to colonies not being reduced or eliminated, feral cats create public health concerns that result from feces and fleas.

But inside FixNation, the dedicated army of cat lovers is convinced its work is making a difference. Last year alone, the organization — one of several in Southern California — neutered 15,660 feral cats.

Trap-neuter-release advocates say it’s common sense: Isn’t it better to neuter those cats than to have them out breeding?

“This program has been a boon to animal control folks because it helps them manage an issue in a way that the community approves,” said Francis Battista, founder of Best Friends Animal Society, which helps fund FixNation. “If you take feral cats to a shelter, they’re dead. Nobody’s going to adopt it.”

That’s part of what drives Roberta Garten, one of FixNation’s “master trappers.”

She roams the streets of Los Angeles at night in search of feral cats. Armed with a flashlight and a Honda full of a cat’s delights — canned tuna, desiccated fish flakes, sardines, dry kibble and catnip — she might trap 16 to 20 animals a week. In one two-block radius in Lincoln Heights, she helped trap and fix more than 40 feral cats.

Residents, several of whom feed the feral cats, come outside to help, thanking Garten for her efforts. She’s so tuned in to the neighborhoods where she traps that she recognizes each hiding space and kitty, including one particularly stubborn black cat that had been successfully evading her traps and stinky fish.

After a long, cold night of waiting, one curious cat finally wanders into the cage. Garten checks the cat’s right ear. It’s not snipped, the telltale sign that it hasn’t been neutered — eliciting a “hallelujah” cry of success from Garten.

“I feel like I’m doing something worthwhile,” Garten said. “I feel like it’s helping this neighborhood a lot.”

kimi.yoshino@latimes.com

Copyright © 2010, The Los Angeles Times

PLEASE donate to pet rescue


Fix Nation.. Do you have homeless cats in your neighborhood that you would like to get fixed?

Posted January 7th, 2010 by Jan

Click the link below
Fix Nation

Do you have homeless cats in your neighborhood that you would like to get fixed? Do you have a friendly stray cat that you are concerned about? Have you noticed litters of kittens springing up left and right? Or are you a responsible pet owner and would like to get your cat spayed or neutered? (Or maybe you want to, but you can’t really afford to?)
FixNation is a non-profit organization providing free spay/neuter services for homeless, stray and feral cats, as well as reduced rate spay/neuter services for tame cats. …


Cats in HEAT

Posted December 18th, 2009 by Jan

Female cats that have not been spayed will come in heat (or estrus) at stages in their lives. This may happen from as young as the age of 4 months and recur seasonally (usually summer seasons with more daylight). The cat stays in heat for normally 4-6 days and during the summer season will come in heat again every 2-3 weeks. These periods may vary widely. The cat will come out of heat and the cycles will end once the cat has mated or the season ends. After giving birth a female cat may come in heat again in as soon as 7 days although this usually happens after about 4 weeks.

Female cats can be spayed almost any time from as young as 4 months. DO IT!!!

catheatun8


How to Check a Pet for Dehydration: Skin Pinch Test

Posted December 15th, 2009 by Jan

* The Skin Pinch Test: Begin by pinching the pet’s skin at the scruff of his neck and pull the skin upwards creating a “tent.” Release the skin and watch to see how long it takes to return to normal. A healthy, hydrated dog’s skin will flatten out immediately, while a dehydrated dog’s skin is less elastic and it will take as long as several seconds to return to normal.

All pets including cats, dogs and horses are at risk for dehydration, especially in the warm months. In the winter it is less likely as they spend time indoors with you, while you watch TV or play something like Foxy bingo www.foxybingo.com. They dislike the cold as much as we do, but once the sun is out it’s a different story. Pets at higher risk include older or very young ones, pregnant, nursing or sick animals. Dogs may overdo it when exercising with you and physically drain themselves, leading to a problem. Keep an eye on the animals to prevent it. If you do suspect dehydration, then try these  suggestions:

Look for visible signs. These symptoms include sunken eyes, exhaustion or dry mouth.

Visit the vet for a quick blood test to check for dehydration. Do this test especially if your pet was without water for a long period of time.

Test your dog or cat’s skin elasticity. Gently pull the skin near the middle of your pet’s back. If he is dehydrated, then the skin won’t have its usual elasticity. It will “tent”.

Give her some food and see if she’ll eat. Another symptom of dehydration is a loss of appetite.

Check the gums. Expose the gums and press them gently and briefly with your thumb. Blood is forced through the gum and should return to its normal color within 2 seconds. If it does not, then it could be a sign.


Tips for a Pet-Safe Holiday Season

Posted November 25th, 2009 by Jan

Latest News from the Frontlines of Animal Welfare
November 25, 2009

Tips for a Pet-Safe Holiday Season Easy Tips for a Pet-Safe Holiday Season
There’s nothing more scrumptious than gathering with friends and family for the holidays, but many of the ingredients in human fun can result in distress for pets. As we kick off this season of lights, parties and yummy treats, the ASPCA wants to remind pet parents of the potential hazards certain goodies and décor can pose to our furry friends.

“As you prepare for your holiday celebrations,” says Dr. Steven Hansen, Senior Vice President of ASPCA Animal Health Services, “remember to be wary of foods and traditions that can bring potential dangers to companion animals.”

In honor of the joyous season to come, ASPCA poison control experts offer these essential tips for having pets at the party in a safe way:

Avoid Too Much of a Good Thing
While the holidays are a time for giving, there are some foods you should not share with your furry friends. A taste of mashed potato or a lick of pumpkin pie shouldn’t pose a problem. However, alcoholic beverages, coffee, onions, fatty foods, yeast dough and macadamia nuts can all lead to stomach upset, diarrhea or even worse—an inflammatory condition of the pancreas known as pancreatitis. A special no-no is chocolate, which if ingested can lead to death. And you may want to skip sharing the turkey—poultry bones can splinter and cause blockages.

Put the Meds Away
One of the most common holiday-related emergencies is the consumption of human pharmaceuticals. Make sure all your medications are securely locked away, and be sure to tell your guests to keep their meds zipped up and packed away, too.

That Holiday Glow
When you leave the room, put the candles out! Animals can easily knock lit candles over, causing a fire, and curious cats are particularly at risk of getting burned by candle flames. Also, be sure to use appropriate candle holders, placed on stable surfaces.

Decorations Can Be Dangerous
Holiday decorations such as breakable ornaments, string, ribbon and dreidels should be kept out of paws’ reach. These traditional decorations can cause choking or severe intestinal problems if swallowed. All holiday light strands, loose wires and electric cords can also pose serious dangers to your pet, especially puppies, who may chew on them.

Go Tinsel-less
Kitties love this sparkly, light-catching “toy” that’s easy to bat around and carry in their mouths. But a nibble can lead to a swallow, which can lead to an obstructed digestive tract, severe vomiting, dehydration and possible surgery. It’s best to brighten your boughs with something other than tinsel.

Forgo the Flowers
Be careful with holiday floral arrangements. Lilies are commonly used this time of year and all varieties, including Tiger, Asian, Japanese Show, Stargazer and Casa Blanca can cause kidney failure in cats. In addition, common Yuletide plants such as mistletoe and holly berries can be potentially toxic to pets. Holly, when ingested, can cause pets to suffer nausea, vomiting and diarrhea. Mistletoe can cause gastrointestinal upset and cardiovascular problems. Safe alternatives include artificial flowers made from silk or plastic.

Oh, Christmas Tree
Cats often see trees as fabulous climbing posts. Be sure to securely anchor your tree so it doesn’t tip and fall, causing possible injury to your pet. Also keep in mind that tree water may contain fertilizers that can cause stomach upset if ingested. Stagnant tree water can also act as a breeding ground for bacteria, and, if ingested, a pet may suffer nausea, vomiting and diarrhea.

New Year’s Noise
As you count down to the New Year, be alert to any pet hazards such as noise-makers and confetti. Noise-makers can frighten your pets, causing them to bolt out an open door or window. Confetti, if ingested, can wreak havoc on the digestive tract.

Holiday Travel
Before traveling with your pets by car or plane, make sure they have all the required vaccinations and are wearing identification tags or are microchipped. If you’re traveling by car, be sure to secure your pet safely with a seatbelt harness, crate or barrier and make frequent stops, allowing pets time to exercise and relieve themselves.

If your dog or cat accidentally ingests any potentially harmful products and you need emergency advice, please consult your veterinarian or the ASPCA’s Animal Poison Control Center at (888) 426-4435 (a fee applies) or www.aspca.org/apcc.


Zoom-Bak: dog tracker… don’t travel without it

Posted November 17th, 2009 by Jan

$99 and less then $15 a month.. track your pet immediately.. or your kids, husband, luggage!

I would not travel without it.. click the links..

Zoom-Bak: two-months-free promotion

David Pogue of NY TIMES.. Love him..

23pogue2190