from Clark Howard:
Calling all pawsengers! And those pawsengers can behave like animals aboard a new airline scheduled to take off soon in the U.S. Pet Airways, the first airline designed specifically for the safe and comfortable transportation of pets, will book pets in the main cabin - and owners are not allowed to go along - even in the cargo hold. Pets (cats, dogs or other pets) can book online and then check into a Pet Lounge at the airport. On its web site, the airline promises never to leave a pet alone adding: “A pet attendant will always be within a cat’s meow.” Pet attendants give the animals a “potty break” shortly before take-off and then monitor the animals during the flight. To accommodate the pets, seats are removed from a 19-seat turbo-prop plane (operated by Suburban Air Freight) to make room for pet carriers. The inaugural flight is scheduled for July 14 with five cities served, New York, Washington DC, Chicago, Denver and Los Angeles. One-way airfares start from $149. Bone voyage!

also see:http://www.dogsandcats101.com/2008/09/30/on-the-road-with-your-dog/

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Just received a call from my friend Diana.. Her “Peanuts” has BAD feline acne again.

First.. take away sliding plastc bowels from dogs and cats.. they can be part of the chin acne…

Treat it early yourself? Strident pads and NEOSPORIN creme, often..

AND….

Feline acne is a condition in which comedones (blackheads) develop on the chin of a cat.

What causes feline acne?

The exact cause of feline acne is not known, but several factors appear to be associated with its development including stress, a suppressed immune system, poor grooming habits, the presence of other diseases, contact or atopic dermatitis, and skin conditions in which abnormal amounts of oils are produced and the hair follicles do not function properly.

What are the signs of feline acne?

Multiple comedones form on the chin and lips of the cat, and the chin may appear “dirty.” The comedones can develop into small abscesses, which break open and form crusts. In severe cases, draining tracts, hair loss, and swelling may develop on the chin. It may be itchy and cause the cat to scratch, which can lead to even more trauma to the area. Secondary bacterial infections can develop. The condition may appear only once in the life of a cat, it may come and go, or may remain for the life of the cat. In Persian cats, the condition may also affect the face and skin folds.

Feline acne occurs equally in male and female cats, and in cats of all ages and breeds.

How is feline acne diagnosed?

Skin scrapings may be performed to rule out other causes of similar lesions such as demodicosis, Malassezia (yeast) infections, allergies, ringworm, and a condition called eosinophilic granuloma complex. A skin biopsy may also be performed to rule out these conditions. A culture and sensitivity may be performed if a secondary bacterial infection is suspected.

How is feline acne treated?

Feline acne can be controlled, but is not really “cured.” Very mild cases of feline acne in which there are no symptoms may not be treated. In other cases, antiseborrheic shampoos, such as those containing benzoyl peroxide (at a concentration of 3% or less), or benzoyl peroxide gels are used to break down the excess oils. Supplementation with fatty acids may be beneficial. Oral or topical antibiotics, such as mupirocin, may be used if there is a secondary bacterial infection. If there is a large amount of inflammation, a short course of corticosteroids, such as prednisolone may be given.

Any underlying conditions such as ringworm, a Demodex infestation, or a yeast infection should be treated appropriately.

It may be helpful to switch food and water dishes to a stainless steel or glass variety in the event an allergic reaction may be a contributing factor (cats can be allergic to plastics and dyes). Using a very shallow dish can also be helpful. Owners should regularly clean the chins of cats who are prone to the development of feline acne and/or have poor grooming habits.

ALSO studtail.. click the link

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how to photograph your dog.. youtube

Professional Techniques for Pet and Animal Photography (Paperback)

Bools available at your public library or on Amazon.. click link to see details.

Pet Photography Tips If you have the opportunity, it’s best to take some pet photos with the needs of a portrait specially in mind.

For some pets, a beautiful photograph capturing their best qualities is very easy, while for others it is frustratingly elusive. Many choose a professional pet photography studio for this reason, and while this can be a good solution, with a little preparation and plenty of patience you should still be able to achieve similar results yourself. After all…who else knows your pet better?

pet photography Above all, remember to have fun and don’t be in a rush. Patience is most definitely a virtue when it comes to photographing pets! Be ready to click away and take plenty of shots. Here are a few simple yet effective tips I’ve found can give the best results… LIGHTING: * The best possible lighting is achieved outside in natural light. Try to do this even if your pet is an indoor only pet - though of course safety comes first and this may not always be possible. Having your pet close to a large window, with plenty of natural light coming from behind or slightly to the side of you as you face your pet, is the next best option.

* Avoid direct sunlight, as it can alter natural colouring and increase the contrast between shadow and light, hiding some features. A bright but overcast day is perfect.

* Don’t use a flash, as this can cause red-eye and distort the true colouring & shading of your pet. An exception to this is if your pet has a black coat, in which case a flash or bright sunlight can actually bring out shading and texture which may be lost in photos taken under other lighting conditions. POSITIONING: * Photograph your pet on their level. Don’t have them looking up at you unless this is how you wish the portrait to appear. Don’t make them come to you. Instead, go to where they are most comfortable and see the world from their point of view. Sit on the grass, lie on the floor, whatever it takes. This is especially important for full body shots, which look best from the side rather than above.

* Take plenty of facial photographs with a zoom lense if possible, and have their face fill the frame while still in sharp focus. Try taking some three-quarter views as well as from the front, as a slightly angled pose can sometimes make a beautiful portrait photograph. * If your pet will not sit still, have someone hold them in position. If these pictures are solely for the portrait, then hands and arms in the frame do not matter and are easily removed as long as they do not cover important markings.

PERSONALITY: * Keep your pet as comfortable and at ease as possible. Cameras can be distracting for some animals, so if you cannot get your pet to behave normally, try having someone else present to divert their attention and keep them engaged.

* Capture the most characteristic expression & pose of your pet. If they are generally happy, try to catch them doing their version of a smile.

* A good idea is to have favourite treats or toys at the ready. Hold them up near the camera to catch (and hopefully hold) interest in the right direction. Most importantly, don’t be afraid to be silly. Try making funny and unusual noises or movements to get their attention. Please note that the quality of my portrait will be dependent on your photographs. If they are blurred or your pet is a small spot in the background, I’ll have less to work with and the final portrait will be part guesswork, which means it won’t be as much a representation of your pet as it should be.

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Black Chow X male still missing. From Garden Grove Ca. 310 345-4325

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Needed to get it on the web. Saw this sign while walking “Holly GoLightly”.

The man who found him will be getting him scanned.

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I use my thumb nail to know of the tartar build up.

Using the pet tooth paste and the finger brush or gauze, helps to clean teeth.

How to clean your pet’s teeth

Something I copied from the web.. looks good…

1. If you have a kitten, or you have never tried to get to your cat’s teeth, begin by using you finger dipped in something they love!. Try tuna water; cats love this! Use this training tool for four days by putting the treat (the tuna water) on your finger and open your pet’s mouth and rub it all around. As the cat gets used to having your fingers around his mouth, praise him a lot.
2. Now move to a piece of gauze wrapped around your finger; now they are going to get used to a bulkier finger. Be sure to keep the sessions short, never more than three to five minutes at a time. Be sure you are working the tips of the gum line and the teeth. You can do this several times a day when first trying to train your cat, but I would suggest no more than three times, and spread them apart by several hours.
3. Now it is time to find toothpaste your cat will like. This is trial and error but they now make several flavor choices to choose from like chicken, beef and fish. They are all safe for your cat, and the best part of the whole process is that while you still have to brush his teeth, you don’t have to try to get your cat to rinse. You will still be using a finger wrapped with gauze at this point. Put the toothpaste on the gauze and brush the gums and teeth. Once they are used to this, you are ready for the next step.
4. It is time to get the toothbrush. Here too, there are many styles on the market. You can find anything from a plastic glove with finger brushes on the thumb and forefinger (my personal favorite), to a regular toothbrush, to a toothbrush you can put on your finger. If you find that you receive too much resistance from trying to brush your cat’s teeth with a brush, you can use a clean piece of gauze to apply the toothpaste.
5. Remember to brush the teeth well.

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SAVE A LIVE.. nicely warn someone.

The information in the article below is very useful… BUT, the reason for this blog is to save a dog’s live.  NEVER, NEVER, EVER leave a choke chain on a dog. It should NEVER be used a permanent collar with dogs I.D.

If the dog  jumps over fence and the loop is caught, it becomes a hangman’s noose.  If dogs are left alone and play together, a dog’s tooth can get caught in the loop and the dog with the choke collar will be strangles.

A dog left in the car while wearing a choker, could, and have, get caught on the gear shift, panic, and straggle to death.

I HAVE EXPERIENCED these situation when I worked as a vet tech. Images and phone calls that will remain in my brain forever.

I am a fan of training with a slip collar…semi chokers work and are safe.

a reprint below:

Proper Use Of The Slip Collar

The slip collar, commonly miscalled a choke collar, is available in various styles, most people will associate the chain slip collar as the primary training collar. Slip collars are available in all types of materials from chain, cord, elastic stretch (bungee cord), fabric, flat strap, and safeties.

“Choke Chains” are not intended to choke your dog! The intent is that when the collar is tugged it will pinch the brachial nerve in the dogs neck (much like pinching the funny bone) or according to some people it is intended to simulate how a mother will nip a puppy on the neck to correct it. The Slip Collar is NOT intended to choke your dog. If your dog is choking with the use of this collar then use a different collar!

Personally I don’t care for chain or cord slip collars. They are far to often considered as the only choice and used as the first or only training collar, when a different collar would be more appropriate, safer, and much easier to use. Chain slip collars should NOT be the first choice for a training collar. NEVER use a slip collar, chain or cord, on a dog under 6 months old. NEVER EVER.

If you are going to use a slip collar; be it chain, cord, leather, or strap, learn how to use it properly before you put it on your dog. Do some reading. Watch them in use. The first consideration is size. A collar that is too large will only detract from its primary effectiveness. Measure the size of your dogs neck high on the neck, not close to the shoulders. Then add an inch or two. That will be the size you want to buy. The proper fit should just slide over the dogs head without unduly pulling on the dogs ears.

Don’t buy large thinking “they’ll grow into it”. Instead buy 4 collars, one the correct size and another 2 inches larger and 2 other types of training collars in the proper size. Use the collar which gives you the level of correction you need. There is nothing that says you have to use one collar and one collar only during training. If a collar works during training for Sit/Stay but doesn’t work during training to Heel feel free to move to another collar. Switch back and forth. There is a benefit to this in that your dog will not become collar smart.

There is only two ways to put a slip collar on. You’d think people would get it right 50% of the time by chance, this doesn’t seem to be the case. The free end which connects to the lead should be over the dogs neck not come under. The position is important, over the neck the collar immediately releases pressure when slack is given. Under the neck this is not the case.

YES. The free end which connects to the lead goes over the dogs neck.	NO. DO NOT PUT THE FREE END UNDER THE DOGS NECK

In use there should be no tension in the lead and approximately six inches of slack, the collar should be completely relaxed. Giving corrections with the slip collar should be short tugs. DON’T haul back like you’re setting a gaff in a fish. It is very easy to damage the dogs throat. DON’T let your dog run and hit the end of the lead. DON’T hold steady pressure on the lead constricting the dogs breathing. NEVER yank on the lead in anger. You can crush the dogs throat and kill them. Yes sad to say it does happen.

If the dog is hauling on the lead and choking. GET A DIFFERENT COLLAR.

The slip collar is a training collar only. It should be on your dog only when training and under your direct control. If your dog is running free and having a blast being off lead then it shouldn’t be wearing a slip collar. I have seen a dog, wearing a chain slip collar, run and jump through a brush pile. The free ring got caught in a branch effectively hanging the dog. In this instance the owner was close enough to see what had happed and immediately rescued the dog, this is not always the outcome.

Remove the slip collar as soon as you are done training. Slip collars should never be on dogs that are tied outside. The dog is not under your direct control when tied out. Remember it is easy for a dog to back out of a slip collar.

A slip collar, in all its various guises, is still just one of many training tools available to you. Don’t be afraid to try different ones. Half the fun of owning a dog is all the neat things you get to buy and try. Use the minimum tool to get the behaviour that you desire. Be realistic in what you are demanding from your dog as well.

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Spread the word..   Spring is Coming!!
This means lots of new babies being born who are going to need homes! Please adopt now and remember to:
SPAY & NEUTER

cat breed in the spring… NATURE.

In 6 years, one female dog and her offspring can be the source of 67,000 puppies.

In 7 years, one cat and her young can produce 420,000 kittens.

Everyone can receive FREE or LOW COST spaying and neutering. Check with your local shelters.

AARP or low income or just ask.

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How many tears did we shed when we received this letter from Dr. Pilch and Animal Medical Center in Van Nuys Ca.

A donation in “Jordan’s” name from her vets.

Companion Animal Health at the UC Davis School of Veterinary Medicine 

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1  1/2 yrs after  (FCE spinal Stroke)

see her other video

This is Jordan, a 12 year old Dobe/Rotte from DobeRescue in Fillmore. One and 1/2 years after being paralyzed with an FCE, with the help of Margret Rudey at DogPaddle, and her vet Dr. Pilch, she learned to walk and run. Unfortunately she got Megaesophagus due to a growth in her Thymous and we had to say a VERY sad goodbye.

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