Last Saturday, my friends dog died. He was a beautiful 1 year-old chocolate lab named Coco. He was so sweet and would come down and visit us during the day. The way he died was horrible and I wanted to get the word out to everyone I knew so that this doesn’t happen to other dogs.

At 12:00 noon on Saturday, he ate some snail bait and by 6:00 he was dead. They came home and found him in a pool of excrement as he gasped his last breath. He suffered terribly and alone in their yard while they were out. Most people don’t know that snail bait is coated with oats and molasses and is attractive to dogs. My friends did not know this when they bought it. Later they realized there was a warning on the box, but with all the text on the box they missed it.

They NEVER would have bought something to put in their garden that would killed their beloved dog. Needless to say, they are distraught. While we all know that poison are hazardous, we don’t think the the snail bait that we put out is not only hazardous, but is attractive to dogs. 1 teaspoon will kill a dog in 4 hours.

PLEASE let everyone in your neighborhood know this. We have thrown out our box and will not put it out because we have friendly dogs in the neighborhood. Please do the same. Next time you are in Home Depot-ask the manager to prominently post warnings about this danger to dogs. Please do this for Coco. Please send this anyone you know who has a dog.

This is NOT and urban legend.

(METALDEHYDE TOXICITY)

In California, snail bait constitutes the most common poisoning agent in the dog. Not that malicious poisoning is the issue; most cases are inadvertent as many gardens have both dogs and snail problems. Snail bait is commonly formulated in pellets (which can resemble dog food) and flavored with molasses or bran to attract snails (and unfortunately is attractive to dogs as well). Snail baits are also available as liquids and powders which can get onto paws and be licked off in normal grooming. Very little snail bait is required to cause poisoning (less than a teaspoon per 10 lbs of body weight).

OBVIOUS TWITCHING

Signs of poisoning begin fairly quickly after the poison is consumed. The dog will begin anxious twitching at first only slightly and then uncontrollably. This progresses to seizures and potentially to death. The muscle contractions of the twitches raise body temperature so high that brain damage can result, leading to the colloquial emergency room term “shake and bake syndrome.”

Patients can also exhibit racing heart rates, vomiting, diarrhea, and rigidity, and respiratory failure.

There is a liver failure syndrome that occurs in some patients approximately 2-3 days after poisoning, so it is important for liver enzymes to be monitored by blood tests through out the recovery period.

MAKING THE DIAGNOSIS

Generally, the appearance of the twitching patient is very characteristic even if there is no known history of snail bait exposure. Testing of stomach contents or urine for the presence of metaldehyde can be done but is generally not necessary.

TREATMENT

There is no direct antidote for metaldehyde toxicity; treatment is aimed at controlling the clinical signs. If less than one hour has passed since exposure, it may be possible to induce vomiting. If the patient is already twitching badly the stimulation involved in inducing vomiting may not be in the patient’s best interest. In this case, the patient can be anesthetized and stomach pumped. Activated charcoal can be given to prevent absorption of metaldehyde into the body from the intestine. Cathartics (used to induce diarrhea) can also be used with the activated charcoal to assist in removing the metaldehyde from the intestinal tract promptly.

Twitching can be controlled with methocarbamol (a muscle relaxant) or injectable valium^® (diazepam). Fluid therapy and body temperature monitoring will be needed through the recovery period.

Chance of recovery depends on how much poison was ingested, how quickly therapy was initiated, and the general health of the patient. While this is a very serious type of poisoning most patients have a good chance at recovery if treated properly.

You will thank me for this one… This will only take a couple of weeks but do reinforce often.

Keep a dog whistle next to the dog (or cat) food and treats and use it EVEY TIME you feed.. Blow the whistle and use the “come” command with praise EVERY TIME… Start using the whistle for training when you call your dog.. NEVER PUNISH when a dog obeys the “COME” command..

You will be very pleased when you soon find that your dog comes to your verbal command even if you do not use the whistle… Your dog will have learned the vocal command .. If you have a dog that is not food motivated.. good luck! Many sled type long-haired dogs are not food motivated…

Silent Dog Whistles about $10-12..
Invented by Acme in 1935, the Silent Whistle is the perfect choice people who live in an urban environment, where noise is a factor. Most dogs hear quite clearly frequencies that the human ear cannot. Both models are adjustable within the frequency range of 5400 Hz. to 12,800 Hz. So they can be tuned to your dog’s specific hearing level. Whether your dog is working close to you or at a distance this model is the perfect choice

MORE detailed instruction…

COMING WHEN CALLED You must have the ability to recall your dog, no matter what the situation or other temptations. The best way to achieve this is by ensuring that returning to you is a rewarding and highly pleasurable experience available to them. To do this it is essential that you never punish your dog for returning to you regardless of what they were doing before (or how angry it made you!).

Recalling a young puppy is often quite easy as they often lack the confidence to wander far away. It is important to take advantage of this period in building the recall command and associating it with very positive experiences. To get your dog’s attention and make it return to you, be prepared to step out of your comfort zone in terms of your own behavior. Use high pitched voices, clap your hands, jump up and down. Make yourself seem as interesting as possible to your dog. If you are really desperate, use a treat or run in the opposite direction to your dog. Their natural chase instinct nearly always gets their attention and brings them running. When they get to you, heap on the praise, hug them, play a short game or a tummy rub. Anything that makes them think returning to you is just the real business.

Start to introduce the whistle when recalling. To start with, you could just whistle yourself unaided and gradually move onto the dog whistle as your distances increase. Assuming your dog is able to sit on command, practice walking away from them a short distance, then using the pip-pip to recall. Sometimes return to your dog instead of doing the recall. This will stop your dog anticipating the command or always assume a sit/stay is followed by a recall.

If at any time your dog seems confused, keep calm and don’t start shouting (this will only make things worse). Go back to commands that your dog has mastered and start to build up slowly again. Training is always two steps forwards and one back.

Great ideas..

http://www.findtoto.com/.. calls all your neighbors

http://thecenterforlostpets.com/

http://www.fidofinder.com/

re-print: Benedict Canyon Newsletter
by Jan Marlyn Reesman
The canyon is filled with “LOST PET” signs. We all know many of these missing small dogs and cats may never show up again. The fate of “the canyon”. However you should not stop searching. Cats have been found weeks after they go missing. Since the conception of the micro-chip, dogs have been returned home long after their replacement has arrived.
When a pet goes missing it is vital to act fast and to never stop the search. Grab a powerful flashlight even during daylight hours, we learned this from watching “CSI”. Search dark spaces. A frightened or injured cat will hide in dark spaces and will not come to you when called. An injured dog may also.

Immediately search your property thoroughly. Small dogs and cats can get into some incredibly strange places. Look in EVERY nook and cranny. Don’t assume that your pet would never crawl into a tiny space. Especially cats.. felines are a curious group. Look behind, under, and inside washing machines, clothes dryers, stoves, refrigerators, dishwashers, bookcases, behind water heaters, under furniture, under beds, in closets, in cabinets, in drain pipes, in sewer drains, in culvert pipes, under vehicles, under the hood of your car, in crawl spaces under the house, inside sheds and barns, etc. In the case of cats, also look in attic crawl spaces, on the roof, in roof gutters, and up in the trees.

Make some noise while you walk around the neighborhood! Animals can hear you from great distances. If your pet has a favorite “squeaky toy” bring it along and use it to help you make familiar noises. It’s also important to stop regularly, be quiet, and listen for your pet to make a noise in reply. Especially at dawn and dusk.

Place strong-scented articles outside your home to attract your pet. Leaving the pets bed, a piece of your clothes or personal blanket. They will help to give the pet an anchor to stay near or on if he or she is lost when you are away from home or if you have to leave the last area where you saw your pet.

Put flyers everywhere. It is extremely important to post MANY flyers within at least a 1-mile radius of where it was lost. DO NOT PUT YOUR NAME OR ADDRESS ON YOUR FLYER! List the date and place your pet was lost, breed of dog or cat, sex, age, weight, color, markings, and your telephone number. Offer a reward, but don’t state the amount. It is very important to always withhold several identifying marks and characteristics of your lost pet. Beware of the scammer. Post the flyers at waist level on telephone poles and at eye level in such places as veterinary offices, pet shops, beauty shops, grocery stores, community bulletin boards, churches, pizza parlors, convenience stores, near schools, and on school bulletin boards, on windshields, in mailboxes, fire stations, Starbucks, food trucks and construction worksites. Examine your posted flyers frequently and replace the ones that are missing or damaged.

Walk the neighborhood and talk to everybody. Go to each house in the area where your pet was lost and talk to the residents; give them your flyer. If no one is home, leave the flyer attached to his or her door, don’t forget to bring tape. Talk to everybody you run across ie, neighborhood children and parents waiting at the school bus stop.
This also includes the paperboys, school crossing guards, neighborhood crime watch groups, garbage pick-up crews, postal workers, sanitation workers, construction workers, etc. Give them your flyer.
Place an ad in your local newspaper. Some will do this for free. Be sure to advertise in the Sunday edition as well as during the week. Also place an ad in any “Penny Saver” type of publications. Check the newspaper “found” ads every day. Also check online “Lost and Found”. Most newspapers provide free ads to people who have found lost pets.

Call local veterinarian offices during the day. After 5 PM, call veterinarian emergency clinics. If an office has taken in or treated any animal that even remotely resembles your pet, VISIT THE OFFICE IN PERSON. Your description of your pet and their description of the same pet rarely match. YOU MUST GO SEE FOR YOURSELF!

Get phone numbers of local rescue organizations. The free Pet Press (at the library and pets stores) has current lists. Call each of the rescue organizations and ask for their help and find out if they have your pet. These groups generally network with each other and will pass the word about your case. VISIT your local Animal Control, humane societies, and animal shelters, including the ones in surrounding areas. You must actually visit the animal control and humane shelters every day or two. It works well if several family members can take turns visiting the shelters. Be sure to check all areas of the shelter, including the infirmary. Also be aware that dogs may be housed in the cat section and vice-versa.

Leave a picture of your pet and your phone number at each shelter, befriend them. Find out the holding period of each animal control and humane shelter. Be aware of how much time you have to claim your pet before it is euthanized!

Check shelters out of your area in person and online. A Good Samaritan may have taken your pet in only to have it escape a week or more later.

Don’t ever give up! Pets have been known to find their way back home after being lost for several months.

PREVENTION: Get your pet Micro-chipped, keep tags current.

Keep pet tags current and check that they are still in place and legible. A good idea is to write your phone number directly onto the collar. I do not remove my dog’s collar even when she is being bathed. I have heard the excuse that the lost pet was not wearing a collar and id because they were just bathed.

Your tag should have more then one phone number, your home number, cell, your vet etc.. I keep two collars and tags on my dogs as well as a microchip.

Get an “Acme Dog Whistle”. Blow the whistle whenever you feed or give treats to your pet. Leave the whistle next to the treats so that you will remember to use it, this really works. The high-pitched sound from these whistles can carry up to a mile or more. Cats are attracted to this sound as well as dogs. (It is also a great way to teach a pet the “come command”.)

Keep fence gates closed securely. Self closing gates area good idea. Always transport a cat in a carrier. Never take your cat to the Vet or anywhere else unless it is secured. A hand carried cat can bolt and hide if frightened by loud noises. When a cat is frightened in strange surroundings, especially with traffic noise around, it will hide and will not come to you.

If you have a dog who is an escape artist, try leaving a piece of broken leash hanging front their collar so that it will appear that the dog broken lose as opposed to being out for a walk.

NEVER, NEVER leave a choke collar on a dog when it is not attached to a leash. It will eventually become a HANGMAN’S NOOSE!

Have current photos of your pet.

A pillowcase is a quick way to transport cats or injured small animal.
As a final point, spay or neuter your pets! Both males and females will be much less likely to wander if “fixed.”
One of many online resources: http://www.laanimalservices.com/LostServices.htm

Jan Marlyn Reesman was a licensed heath technician and animal behaviorist. Partial name-dropping client list: Whoopi Golberg, Calvin Klein, Billy Crystal, James Caan, Dyane Cannon, Barry Diller, Sandy Gallin, Gabe Kaplan, Frank Wells, Barbara Benedek, Frank Mariani, Richard Dreyfuss, Hal Linden, Jack Warner Estate dogs and John Ritter.

BEFORE u bring the new dog home.. be prepared.  what u do before the new dog comes home and what you do the frst hour will make a HUGE difference on if the dogs stays!  Read this one page…

Click this  link.. 3 minutes that will change your life..

BEFORE you bring the new dog home..

1- If small. bring home in a crate..

2- Take them through the house and into the back yard. If they try to escape, they will try to leave the way they came in.

3- Have them IMPRINT on the area where they will be staying  for the first few weeks or until trained.

4- If you have a pool. BEWARE.. they may swim but not know how to get out of the pool.. see pool training blog.

I could not tell you any much better then this link.. It is difficut to do.. but is they r your dogs.. leave.. do the “jolly routine” as u go.. they should follow.. now read on..

eHow

BUT.. the short of it is to  separate the dogs by grabbing their hind legs and walking them backward (like wheelbarrows). If you can get another person to help, do it with both dogs.  If you are alone, do this to the more aggressive dog.. secure the dogs away from each other before releasing them.

How to Crate Train your DogYour dog’s attitude to their crate depends on how you train them to use it. It’s unlikely that they will be nervous about their crate when they see it for the first time.You must take the time to show them that being inside their crate isn’t a punishment, it isn’t a scary place, and they can relax and feel safe when they are inside.
When it comes to crate training, it doesn’t matter how old your dog is. The same methods are used whether they are 6 weeks old, 6 months old or even 6 years old. Remember that your dog is an individual, and not all dogs learn at the same rate.
The first step in crate training your dog is to put the crate in your living room with the door open, and let them have a good look at it. They will smell it, and may even walk inside. Get a handful of your dog’s favorite treats, those special ones that are kept just for training sessions. Diced chicken is popular with most dogs. Use the treat to lure your dog into the crate, and even if they only put one foot inside at first, give them the reward. That’s a good start.  If you’re concerned about a crate taking up a ton of space in your living room, you may want to get wood dog crate.  These dog crates serve as an end table in your living room and eliminate the need for a bulky crate that takes up extra space.

Spend five minutes on this process, and repeat it several times a day. Make sure you never rush your dog, and always finish your training session on a happy note.
When your dog is quite happy to stroll into their crate for the reward, you can then throw a snack into the rear of the crate. It should land far enough back so that they have to walk right inside to get it. This is teaching them that good things happen inside the crate. They will probably come right out of the crate after eating their snack; that’s quite okay.
At this point, start giving him his meals in the crate, again with the door open, and this will also encourage a positive association with it.
It’s time to start closing the door. In the early stages, throw a treat into the crate, and when your dog is inside, shut the door for just a second or two, then open it up and give them another reward. Repeat this process again and again, so they learn that there’s no need to worry if the door is shut.
Over time, slowly increase the duration your dog spends in the crate with the door closed. Give them toys such as a stuffed Kong to keep them amused while they are inside. Because all of their interactions with their crate have been pleasant and have involved a delicious treat, they are unlikely to be bothered by being locked inside.
This is a long slow process, and the time it takes varies from dog to dog. It is very worthwhile taking as long as your dog needs, because there are many advantages to having a dog that settles in a crate. Vacations, travel and even forcing them to rest after an operation are always much easier with a crate.

There’s nothing more scrumptious than gathering with friends and family for the holidays, but many of the ingredients in human fun can result in distress for pets. As we kick off this season of lights, parties and yummy treats, the ASPCA wants to remind pet parents of the potential hazards certain goodies and décor can pose to our furry friends.

“As you prepare for your holiday celebrations,” says Dr. Steven Hansen, Senior Vice President of ASPCA Animal Health Services, “remember to be wary of foods and traditions that can bring potential dangers to companion animals.”

In honor of the joyous season to come, ASPCA poison control experts offer these essential tips for having pets at the party in a safe way:

Avoid Too Much of a Good Thing
While the holidays are a time for giving, there are some foods you should not share with your furry friends. A taste of mashed potato or a lick of pumpkin pie shouldn’t pose a problem. However, alcoholic beverages, coffee, onions, fatty foods, yeast dough and macadamia nuts can all lead to stomach upset, diarrhea or even worse—an inflammatory condition of the pancreas known as pancreatitis. A special no-no is chocolate, which if ingested can lead to death. And you may want to skip sharing the turkey—poultry bones can splinter and cause blockages.

Put the Meds Away
One of the most common holiday-related emergencies is the consumption of human pharmaceuticals. Make sure all your medications are securely locked away, and be sure to tell your guests to keep their meds zipped up and packed away, too.

That Holiday Glow
When you leave the room, put the candles out! Animals can easily knock lit candles over, causing a fire, and curious cats are particularly at risk of getting burned by candle flames. Also, be sure to use appropriate candle holders, placed on stable surfaces.

Decorations Can Be Dangerous
Holiday decorations such as breakable ornaments, string, ribbon and dreidels should be kept out of paws’ reach. These traditional decorations can cause choking or severe intestinal problems if swallowed. All holiday light strands, loose wires and electric cords can also pose serious dangers to your pet, especially puppies, who may chew on them.

Go Tinsel-less
Kitties love this sparkly, light-catching “toy” that’s easy to bat around and carry in their mouths. But a nibble can lead to a swallow, which can lead to an obstructed digestive tract, severe vomiting, dehydration and possible surgery. It’s best to brighten your boughs with something other than tinsel.

Forgo the Flowers
Be careful with holiday floral arrangements. Lilies are commonly used this time of year and all varieties, including Tiger, Asian, Japanese Show, Stargazer and Casa Blanca can cause kidney failure in cats. In addition, common Yuletide plants such as mistletoe and holly berries can be potentially toxic to pets. Holly, when ingested, can cause pets to suffer nausea, vomiting and diarrhea. Mistletoe can cause gastrointestinal upset and cardiovascular problems. Safe alternatives include artificial flowers made from silk or plastic.

Oh, Christmas Tree
Cats often see trees as fabulous climbing posts. Be sure to securely anchor your tree so it doesn’t tip and fall, causing possible injury to your pet. Also keep in mind that tree water may contain fertilizers that can cause stomach upset if ingested. Stagnant tree water can also act as a breeding ground for bacteria, and, if ingested, a pet may suffer nausea, vomiting and diarrhea.

New Year’s Noise
As you count down to the New Year, be alert to any pet hazards such as noise-makers and confetti. Noise-makers can frighten your pets, causing them to bolt out an open door or window. Confetti, if ingested, can wreak havoc on the digestive tract.

Holiday Travel
Before traveling with your pets by car or plane, make sure they have all the required vaccinations and are wearing identification tags or are microchipped. If you’re traveling by car, be sure to secure your pet safely with a seatbelt harness, crate or barrier and make frequent stops, allowing pets time to exercise and relieve themselves.

If your dog or cat accidentally ingests any potentially harmful products and you need emergency advice, please consult your veterinarian or the ASPCA’s Animal Poison Control Center at (888) 426-4435 (a fee applies) or www.aspca.org/apcc.

Read This BEFORE You Give Up Your Pet Due to Allergies…