Are You Sure Your Pet Bird Gets All the Nutrients He Needs?

Jan’s 23 year old Huey and Seattle

A Micro chip is a must, but will not stop a car or scan itself.

Solutions?  Don’t take the collar off during the bath or don’t wait til the dog dries off.  Hire a gardener who is a “DOG PERSON”…

Or, Teach your pets NOT to leave the yard. Set  boundaries.

Yes you can…

Here is a good HOW TO that I found on the web.. start now..

Book idea

Teach him to touch that marker before he enters the water. Show him the steps, ramp, or ladder from the deck and say “steps.” Then take him a short distance away and repeat. Gently place him in the water with his feet on the top step. If you have a helper, you are in the water and your helper is at the top of the steps. If you are by yourself, attach a leash or long line before you put him in the water and stay by the side of the pool. Say “steps” and let him gain his footing up the ramp.

VERY GRADUALLY increase the distance from the steps/ramp, and let him swim to the steps and exit.
Stay in the shallow end, and keep the lessons short – no more than ten minutes.
To help your dog swim, position your hands so his rear end is up so he will use all four legs to swim. He should look like he is running in the water. You may need to help him by moving his rear legs for him. If he just uses his front legs, he will most likely sink. His neck should extend forward and his head should not point up. Use a food lure if necessary to get him in this position.

Rinse him off or give him a shampoo after your session, and be sure to dry out his ears. Check his eyes because they may become irritated by the chlorine and need to be rinsed.

After he learns to swim, don’t let him overexert himself. Swimming is a physically taxing exercise, and he can easily become fatigued. Take breaks, and watch for signs of exhaustion.

Sometimes despite your best efforts, the unthinkable happens, and you find your dog motionless in the water. Get him out of the water. If he is not breathing, hold his rear legs up to let water drain. Put him on his side. Clear any debris from his mouth, close his mouth with your hand, and apply mouth-to-nose resuscitation and chest compressions. Take him to the vet immediately even if he begins to breathe on his own.

If you have taught him how to swim and taught him where the steps are, you can avoid this tragedy. And you and your dog will have a fantastic time swimming together.

Buy here or order from your local library..

The Art Of Raising A Puppy

How To Be Your Dogs Best Friend – The Monks Of New Skete

“Walkin’ The Dog”   310 739-7334 (Jan)

This is the BIG thing on the West Coast (and The East Coast)…  Many dog walkers now earn as much or more then many of their clients..   The secret that every dog owner should know is:  having your dog walked professionally 4-5 times a week also TRAINS your dog… Dog walkers must have well a well mannered dogs or they will be “thrown out” of the local dog parks..

THE BASIC RATE usually:
30 minute dog walks are $20 dollars for regular clients.

Additional charge for non-regulars..

This is usually a private walk , one-on-one, in your neighborhood.

“The Hollywood Bitch” is highly recommended..  email: ragsolden@mac.com

some of her clients have been..

James Caan, Sandy Gallin, Dyan Cannon, John Ritter, Warner Estate, Barry Diller, Richard Dryfus, Rae Dawn Chong, Calvin Klein, Hal Lindin, Whoppi Goldberg……

___________________________________________________________________________________

Private In Home Puppy Lessons

Private lessons are the most comprehensive way for you and your dog or puppy to learn since it is a customized program dealing with your choice of topics and issues – with a input from us regarding things we know are important.

The private lessons are six hours of training in five lessons. The first lesson is two hours and the remaining four lessons are an hour each. The fee is $200 for the first 2 hour lessons and if you agree to move forward, the fee is $150 for each additional 5 lessons. Includes phone consultations.

What are some advantages to private lessons?

• You and your dog are comfortable learning in your home.
• We assess what your current situation is, find out what you want to do, formulate a plan to help you reach your goal, and then work with you to get you there.
• You have our undivided attention for the entire lesson, which means that both you and your dog should progress fairly quickly.
• Lessons are scheduled to our mutual convenience, usually one to two weeks apart.
• We work on basic obedience training as well as solving some behavior problems. You receive detailed instructions both orally and in writing as well as strategies to solve specific behavior problems.
• You also receive telephone consultations between lessons as needed.

Basic Obedience and Manners Program includes these behaviors or commands, and we will gladly customize a program to meet your needs.

Basic training is on leash with the goal to be off leash as the puppy ages.

Number 1.. saftey! Using a dog whistle… IT WORKS!

• Come
• Down and Down-stay
• Drop it
• Go to your place and lie down
• Greet people and dogs on leash
• Leave it
• Off
• Sit and Sit-stay
• Staying at a distance
• Staying with distractions
• Stand
• Take it
• Wait at curbs, gates, and doors
• Walking beside you on leash (Heeling)
• Watch me (Getting your dog’s attention)

ALSO DOG WALKING:

Licensed Vet Tech and animal behaviorist.
Most of my clients are high profile entertainment dogs. As dogs are walked they are also being trained to behave on a leash, ride in a car, stay out of the street and become generally well manned. They also learn to safely interact with other dogs. All sizes, breeds and behavior welcome. I have never met a dog that I could not handle. $20 per hour when walked 4-5 times weekly.

I am in the Beverly Hills and Mulholland Drive area. Most of my clients are in BH /Bel Air. I am located at Beverly Glen near Mulholland. 310 739-7334  or package88@gmail.com

HOW DOGS THINK
A NON-VERBAL LINK TO CANINE COMMUNICATION

Have you ever seen a device or a program designed to correct a dog behavior
problem that explained how smart dogs are and how they think? Most plans or
gadgets enable owners, literally, to declare war on their hapless pets.
Little or no concern is afforded to what the dogs happen to think about
them. In fact, the implication is that dogs don’t think at all … either
they just react to external stimuli like robots , or respond according to
genetically controlled “drives.” Dogs are rarely credited with the ability
to solve a problem mentally; to analyze a situation; imagine ways to
manipulate or control it, then take a pre-planned course of action toward a
goal that was preconceived in the dog’s mind. In short, the dog is
considered a real dummy, then treated like a dummy. But this concept is not
correct. Dogs are smart. They can, and usually do, think rings around their
owners. And they can do it because most owners have never learned how to
think like a dog.

Understanding Non-Verbal Thinking

We all wonder now and then what our dog is thinking. If we wonder aloud,
perhaps when mealtime is approaching and the dog is looking expectantly at
us, we might say something like, “I’ll bet Tippy’s thinking, ‘When is my
dinner going to be ready?’ ” In all likelihood, Tippy isn’t originating any
thoughts about ‘when dinner will be ready.’ It is more likely Tippy is
imagining (or ‘imaging’ in his mind) the words and movements you usually say
and perform before getting his dinner; something like, “You want dinner,
Tippy?” All that tail wagging and those pleading eyes are aimed at
stimulating you to say it.
But, an inability to originate thoughts in a spoken language does not make
dogs unintelligent. Even people don’t actively think in a spoken language
unless they actively ’speak’ it. For instance, during a short vacation to
Japan, if you don’t already speak the language, you’ll probably pick up the
meaning of a few words. After a few natives look at you in the morning and
say “Ohio,” you may eventually learn that they’re not curious about where
you’re from, but are wishing you a “Good Morning.” Still, you won’t think
in Japanese unless you live there a few months and actively speak it. Even a
pet Akita will never learn to speak or think in the native lingo because
their voice boxes, tongues and lips cannot formulate the sounds of Japanese
… or English, or French, etc, etc. The limit of our dog’s
language-learning is the meaning of the sounds of certain words. Luckily,
dogs are quick to learn the sounds that are important to them.
With this in mind, when Tippy is prodding us about serving dinner, we’d be
wise to discard ideas about complete sentences being originated and thought
about, and replace them with the non-language concept of mental images. To
illustrate this further; when most Tippys are asking for dinner they
actually look from their owners toward the place where it is served,
generally the kitchen.

Evidence of Imagery

Some very convincing research suggests that dogs think in sensory
impressions; visual, sound and odor images, etc. This is not to say that
they sit around on quiet days experiencing videos inside their brains.
However, they likely share our ability to form and experience in their
minds certain images, odors and sounds. The scientific basis for this idea
came from Russia and was published in the US in 1973. A scientist name VS..
Rusinov1 was studying the electrophysiology of the brain and had several
dogs wired with brain wave equipment and radio transmitters. When the dogs
were brought into the lab from the kennels for experimental conditioning
tests, the electroencephalograph machine was turned on to record their brain
wave patterns. This was done at the same time each day, five days a week.
One weekend, purely by accident, Rusinov brought a group of visitors into
the lab and turned on the EEG machine. Lo, the dog that was normally
schedule for tests during the week at that time was sending wave forms
nearly identical to his regular working patterns! When the testing time
passed, the dogs’ brain waves soon returned to their normal ‘at rest’ forms.
I never found any mention by Rusinov as to whether the dogs out in the
kennel were actually performing their conditioned laboratory behaviorisms.
Chances are they were not, but one thing is almost sure; compared to human
experience in similar types of studies, the dogs were apparently
experiencing them mentally2,3.
The late Polish scientist, Jerzi Konorski,3 taught dogs to salivate and
expect food in their trays when a light flickered. This was done regularly
every few minutes. However, after a few trials, the dogs started salivating
and looking at the trays as if the food were actually there, even though the
light had not flickered. Konorski ventured that the dogs were hallucinating
about both the stimulus (the light) and the reward for salivating (the
food). One thing is sure: Something was going on in the dogs’ minds that
made them behave as if they were happening.

Some Human Examples

Before going on with dogs, let us consider some facets of our own ‘mind’s
eye,’ as suggested by Konorski. Imagine we have a date to meet a loved one
at a busy restaurant. We get there on time and sit at a table near the door.
Fifteen minutes go by, but no friend arrives. We begin to wonder if they are
coming at all. We start watching people approach the door. Pretty soon,
people with similar features almost cause us to call out to them. The more
concerned and anxious we become, the more apt we are to mistake strangers
for our friend. When he or she finally arrives, the pleasure and relief we
feel is often mixed with mild displeasure. We are ambivalent … we have
mixed emotions about meeting them in the future.
Almost everyone has mental imagery. Often, just the thought of a loved one
conjures up their image. This can apply to sounds, as well. Think about your
favorite musical piece and your can often hear it in your ‘mind’s ear.’
These are positive images. They are emotionally pleasant. At the other end
of the scale, recalling a terrifying experience can not only create its
images, but sometime even make us shudder. This is an example of negative,
emotionally unpleasant images.

Back To Dogs

So it is with our dogs. When we are late getting home, or if they over-miss
us because we spoil them with attention and petting every time they demand
it, they very likely worry in images, too. They may well recall images of us
and our activities, such as fluffing the pillows on the sofa, putting away
record albums, handling magazines and books, putting on shoes just before
leaving, sitting in a favorite armchair, etc. As a result of this, they
often engage in activities which involve them with these images: Pillows
wind up on the floor, albums or magazines are moved or chewed, a
chair seat gets dug up, shoes are brought out of the closet. If they can’t
have us there, they try to interact with things that symbolize us.
If dogs really do store up and recall images of us and life’s other objects
and experiences, it follows that we might use this to our mutual benefit.
But since most owners do not understand how dogs think, this imagery is
where the seeds of most behavior problems are sown. Dogs receive and recall
conflicting images of owners and many important experiences.

The Puppy’s Dilemma

Consider the new puppy whose owners come home at regular times and join
in an ecstatically joyful greeting ceremony. This imagery is quickly
ingrained, and the pup begins to anticipate the experience, just Konorski’s
dogs hallucinated about the flickering light and the food tray. However, as
will happen in even the most well regulated household, one day the owner is
late. The puppy begins experiencing the images of his tardy owners …
starts fretting, pacing. Well primed energies, ready for the greeting
ceremony, demand an outlet as the adrenaline starts pumping.
What’s going on in its mind’s eye or ear? It probably imagines hearing
footsteps, perhaps even sees the door open… which doesn’t happen. But it
should. This introduces conflict between what it wants and expects and what
is really happening. Conflict creates frustration. Frustration produces
anxiety, which triggers an even greater adrenaline rush. The pup searches
for something real to satisfy its desire to ‘experience’ the owner … a
magazine or book it saw the owner reading recently. It is rich with the
owner’s scent. If it cannot have the owner there, it can at least have
their genuine odor or taste. So it sniffs, tastes, maybe even swallows parts
of the article. Naturally, this does not fully substitute for the whole
owner, so the puppy’s social appetite is not really satisfied.
Finally, here comes the owner. The puppy innocently launches into its
joyous, semi-hysterical ritual. The owner starts to join in, but spies the
pulverized magazine or book. What’s this? Naturally, if not wisely, the
owner angrily grabs the pup, drags it to the demolished object and scolds
it, or slaps it’s snout or rump, or both. The pet’s single-track mind is
riveted on the owner. It yips, rolls over, or struggles vainly to escape.
Punishment concluded, the owner angrily picks up the remnants of the article
and storms to the trash basket.

Psychic Trauma

The net result of this is a totally confused pup with a conflicting set of
images of its owner. This sort of shock to the nervous system is called
psychic trauma in both animals and humans. A conflict has been instilled
between the positive image of the owner (happy Dr. Jekyll) and the negative
(Mr. Homecoming Hyde). This creates frustration and anxiety about
homecomings, growing in severity if the scenario is repeated a few times.
(It is interesting that in many cases, owners tell us that the pup was fine
for a day or so after the first punishment. This may equate to the human
experience of repression, in which memory of the traumatic experience is
suppressed, creating a sort of ‘backwards amnesia.’) Even when this occurs,
since the punishment was not associated with the act of chewing up
something, the puppy seeks out another article, perhaps a shoe, and the
cycle is repeated until the total relationship between owner and dog is
tainted with emotional ambivalence. Mixed feelings are eating away at the
positive qualities of their relationship. Negative emotional impressions may
start to dominate it.
At about this stage, many owners conclude that the punishment may not have
been severe enough. That’s why the correction was not permanent. So they
intensify it. The relationship erodes further as weeks go by. Enough of this
cascading negative effect and the owner is ready to take drastic action. The
dog, now hyper-sensitive to its owner’s mood change, feels something is
wrong. This often is reflected by new problems, such as submissive wetting
when the owner comes home or approaches the dog at other times; off-schedule
bowel movements or urination occur, etc.
Many pets act insecure, currying more favor when the owner is home, and
hence, missing the owner even more acutely when left alone. Frustration and
anxiety build, while the isolation-related, tension-relieving behavior
mounts. The unwitting owner, who originally may have thought the dog is
‘getting even’ for being left alone, begins to consider it incorrigible.

HELP!

This is when outside help is often sought. A book is purchased. The
veterinarian, breeder, pet shop, a trainer or behaviorist may be consulted.
If lucky, the owner gets advice that brings genuine insight into pet/owner
relationships and dog behavior. But, more likely, they find traditional
quick fixes and the dog winds up in a desensitization program; gets dosed
with anxiety relieving drugs or barbiturates; is stuck in a cramped crate or
cage all day, or banned to the yard or garage, or has its mouth stuffed with
chewed debris and taped shut for hours. Since none of these approaches deal
with the causes, the ‘thinking dog’ and the total relationship with its
owners and the environment, success is rare. The majority of these formerly
precious pets find themselves rejected … relegated to the local pound for
five to seven days, where the odds are 3-to-2 they’ll suffer society’s
‘ultimate solution’. But things don’t have to be so grim, if the owners
learn some ‘dog think.’

Applying Positive Imagery To Solve ‘Separation Anxiety’

Dogs that misbehave when they are left alone are said to be suffering from
separation anxiety. The term is a neat buzz-phrase; almost everybody uses
it. It sounds professional. The trouble is, as a transplant from human
psychiatry, it really doesn’t convey much useful information. However, the term is here, so we’ll
use it in its broadest sense, which is; “a troubled feeling when left alone
or apart from a certain person or persons.” This allows us to recommend a
remedial behavioral program that deals with the realities of the dog’s total
relationships. First, however, we must be sure that the dog’s veterinarian
has ruled out the many physical/medical causes for anxiety, such as
thyrotoxicosis, hyperthyroidism, pre-diabetes, encephalitis, allergies,
hyperkinesis, etc. etc.

The Program

Dogs that are unduly upset when left alone usually enjoy their owner’s
attention and petting whenever they ask for (or demand it) when the people
are at home. To apply the imagery concept to this relationship, we could say
the dog ’sees itself’ as directing, or leading the owner. When it wants some
petting, it nudges or otherwise stimulates the owner, and the owner
complies. The dog wants out, whines at the door or at the owner, and the
door gets opened. Mealtime approaches, dog whines and prances, and dinner
gets served. When the owner goes from room to room, the dog is either ahead,
leading them, or close behind. This is the reality of their relationship, at
least in the dog’s mind. But, when the owner leaves, against the dog’s
wishes, the pet is predictably upset, and problem behavior occurs. This can
involve barking, chewing, pacing, self-mutilation, off-schedule bowel
movements, urination around the house, etc.
The leadership problem can be turned about by presenting a different
reality to the dog; one in which the dog is pleasantly, but firmly and
consistently told to perform some simple act, such as ’sit’ whenever it
attempts to gain attention or affection, or whenever the owner wants to give
the dog some attention. All ’sits’, or whatever command is used (’down’ is a
good one for highly bossy dogs) are praised happily as
3 to 5 seconds of petting is awarded; then the dog is cheerfully released
with an “OK” or “Free.” (Free is a good release because OK is too common a
word.)

If a really bossy dog refuses to obey, and many do when they realize their
relationship is being turned around, simply ignore the situation, turn away
and go on about some other activity, ignoring the dog. Some dogs have
refused to respond for as long as four days before coming to terms with a
follower relationship. However long it takes, after a few days the dog’s
image of itself seems to evolve from one of giving direction to taking it
with compliance prior to being petted, getting dinner, going out the door,
getting on the couch, etc.

In moving around the house, whenever the dog forges ahead, simply
about-turn and go the other way. This must be repeated until the dog walks
patiently behind or, better yet, doesn’t even follow. It is also helpful, but
not vital, to practice down-stays of increasing length during several
evenings a week.

Images of Hyper-Emotionality

Most ‘home alone’ problem dogs get extremely emotional when their owners
get home; some even get excitable when regular departure times approach. To
supplant these emotionally over-stimulating images, sit quietly for about
five minutes before leaving, in the area where the dog will be left. No eye
contact or speaking is allowed. Then, get up and go without looking at or
speaking to the pet.
At homecoming, enter quietly and ignore the dog until it quiets down
completely. Then it is greeted happily, but briefly, away from the door of
arrival. This subdued routine soon replaces the dog’s highly emotional
mental images of returns and departures with calmness and serenity.
Here’s the tough part for most all dog owners: When coming home the place
is a mess! Pillows have been chewed, or the chair is tattered again, or a
pile of poop graces the doorway, or some other problem is evident. If we
keep in mind that the dog has in the past suffered from conflicting images
at homecoming, it is imperative that no emotion, or even attention, should be
directed at the remnants of the problem; such as chewed up magazines, shoes,
defecation, etc. Instead, after five minutes of ignoring the dog, it should
be greeted away from the scene of the misbehavior, and then pleasantly taken
outdoors or to another room and left alone while the mess is cleaned up.
This avoids creating new (or reinforcing old) conflicting images of
emotional reactions to, or interactions with, the debris, defecation, etc.
I have always called this ‘the secret clean-up’. It has worked wonders as
part of programs ranging from digging in the yard to housetraining puppies.
Just why it is such an effective adjunct to correction programs remains to
be satisfactorily explained. In the meantime, we’ll have to say that the
lack of an image of the owner and the mess is more beneficial to correction
than is the image.

The Big Picture

So, there it is. Dogs think in images and we can mold and change their
behavior in hundreds of ways if we will think as they do. For instance, on
the negative side, a set up whereby a car screeches to a stop, horn blaring,
just as a dog starts toward the street from the sidewalk, then praising its
retreat, is a valuable exercise in negative imagery. However, it must be
repeated until the dog avoids the street when cars are not present, as well.
Teaching the ‘panic’ command to come needs the dog’s name followed by a
code word, a sound image that is exclusive to coming when it is absolutely
necessary, and praise words or a vocal rhythm that is unique to that
command, coupled with fast hand-clapping while taking a crouched position.
These combined, positive images can create a dog that will dependably
respond to your code word and come to your praise. It is especially
important to teach this command when the dog is out of sight, as well as in
darkness. OK, you say, why bother to crouch to clap and praise in the dark,
or when the dog can’t see you? The answer to that lies in the dog’s
exquisite, finely tuned and interrelated aural/visual senses, as well as
just how intelligent our dogs are. But that’s another story for another issue.
In the meantime, keep positive images of yourself and the future and you
will convey confidence and cheer to your dog and all whom you meet.

The above article was first published by DOGWORLD Magazine. It is presented
here to convey the concepts behind Campbell’s humane, non-punishment systems
for correcting problem behavior in pet animals. Please feel free to copy the
article and use it as a means of spreading the word for a more enlightened
approach to pet animal ownership. If you use it in a club publication,
newspaper or magazine, etc., please mention it also appears in “Behavior
Problems in Dogs,” 3rd. ed. (1999) and in the New “Better Behavior in Dogs,”
1999, A Guide to solving all your dog problems, (Direct Books – (800)
776-2665).

http://www.poochpotty.com/

SHAKE CAN

This is a wonderful NON physical & very effective CORRECTION tool. Take a cola can, put 10 pennies, bolts, screws, nails, etc.in the can. I really like metal on metal rather than stones or rocks. Put duct tape over the opening to prevent items from flying out.

When your dog engages in a behavior you wish to stop, SHAKE the can ONCE. This is once UP/DOWN. You do not shake, shake, shake the can. If you do, the dog will quickly desensitize to the startle/stop effect of the sudden, unpleasant sound.

When you use the shake can on an undesirable behavior, your dog will startle/stop the behavior & look around for the offending NOISE. Use this break in the behavior to give them the desired command & then praise. NO BARK, GOOD NO BARK…. NO CHEW, GOOD NO CHEW….NO DIG, GOOD NO DIG…etc.

Do not be surprised when your dog, almost immediately, “resumes” the behavior. Be prepared & repeat the shake can process. As with any behavior modification process, it will take numerous repetitions to successfully “modify” a particular behavior. This is NO DIFFERENT than it is with people. Therefore, you must be patient & above all….CONSISTENT!!! Every time you allow a dog to ENGAGE in a behavior you are trying to modify or stop…UNCORRECTED, you are allowing a “reinforcement” of that behavior. This will only ADD time, confusion, & frustration to the modification process. This is unpleasant for you & exceedingly UNFAIR to your dog. DON’T MAKE THINGS HARDER ON YOU OR YOUR DOG!!!!!

You can possibly speed up your behavior modification process by using an additional step. As soon as your dog ceases the offending behavior & they have gotten their NO____, GOOD NO____…..immediately, try to DIVERT their attention to another fun, pleasant stimulus. This could be getting them to play with a toy…with you. There is no better reward than getting to play with Mom or Dad.

Do not consider each “infraction” as backsliding. Instead, consider it one more OPPORTUNITY to correct/modify the behavior. Each of these OPPORTUNITIES, gets you closer, faster to ultimate SUCCESS!!! For pups & new older dogs, I make up several shake cans & strategically place them throughout my home & on the patio. In this way, I have access to the shake can correction WHEREVER/WHENEVER it occurs. I want to take advantage of EVERY opportunity to advance the behavior modification process.

The shake can is especially effective because the dogs do not associate the “correction” with you. Therefore, they do not have to “think” WHY? WHAT? Rather, they more quickly associate the correction with the actual BEHAVIOR. This means, they will more quickly understand that it is the BEHAVIOR that is causing the correction. The allows the behavior to become “self-correcting”, which is the most effective correction.

or said in a different way:

The “no bark” exercise
First, select a silencing command: it can be “Quiet” or “No bark!” or any word you prefer, as long as you use it consistently.

Prepare a few shake cans and place them around the house. A shake can is a can (an empty soda can is perfect) into which you have sealed some pennies or pebbles. When you shake the can, the hard objects hit the side, making a startling noise that serve to interrupt the dog’s inappropriate behavior.

When your dog or puppy starts to bark, give your silencing command and then shake the can until the barking stops. The noise should startle your dog into silence, at which point, you should praise him lavishly. Repeat the procedure as many times as necessary until he doesn’t start barking again.

(be sure that the can is clean, sugar will make the pennies stick together)

We adopted “Jackie Brown”, a 3 year old “ROTTERMAN” (Dobe/Rottie mix) a month ago. She only wanted to relieve herself on grass. We need her to use the paving stones so not to ruin the lawn. My neighbor said that “you can’t teach old dogs new tricks”! I took that as a challenge.

Treating “Jackie Brown” as if she were a new puppy in our home, we had success in one week.

I do want to mention that changing a dogs personality traits is not usually possible. But the behavior, such as, aggression or  submission can be altered and controlled.

A good article I found below:

We’ve all heard the old adage, “You can’t teach an old dog new tricks.” But is it true? Any pet can be trained — at any age. You need the right training, the right information and the right tools. The number one reason pets end up in shelters is because of behavior problems, so good training is important for the relationship between you and your pet.

Many experts, including the accredited instructors at PETsMART, believe that using positive reinforcement techniques will give you and your dog the best results. Training should be fun and positive, for both dog and owner, and the focus should be on rewarding good behavior, not punishing unwanted behavior. It’s important to understand that every time you interact with your dog, you’re training him whether you know it or not. Sometimes it only takes simple adjustments in the way you interact with your dog to make big changes in your relationship with your furry friend.

Knowing what not to do is also important. Training is supposed to be fun, so if you begin to feel frustrated or angry, discontinue the training session.

“Owners should not have unreasonable expectations for their relationship with their dog,” says Vicki Smith, director of pet training for PETsMART, Inc. “For example, people send their children to school for 12 years of formal education to get ‘the basics,’ but think that investing 12 weeks to train their dog is unreasonable. All good relationships require a bit of work.”

Classes taught by knowledgeable pet trainers and behaviorists at PETsMART help pet owners understand dog behavior. From these experts, you will receive good information on how to communicate with your dog. Your dog will learn basic behaviors such as “sit” or “down,” but you will also receive a basic understanding of how that learning took place. This way, you can teach your dog something new without professional help. But remember that a one-hour class each week will not be enough unless you follow up at home. You should leave class each week confident about how to practice the lessons at home.

Group training classes can also teach your dog some important social skills. Because they are “social pack” animals, dogs who are not properly socialized sometimes respond with fear, excessive exuberance or even aggression when they eventually do interact with other dogs. Un-socialized dogs may respond to people the same way. With the growing popularity of activities that can include dogs, such as dog parks, shopping with your dog, dog birthday parties and weddings, having a dog that responds appropriately in the company of other dogs makes time with your pet more enjoyable.

Pets can add a tremendous amount of love and joy to your life. By taking the time to train your dog properly, you give him the chance to become your best friend instead of a burden. This leaves less time for punishing your pet and more time playing with them.