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	<title>Dogs and Cats 101 &#187; training</title>
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		<title>How to Crate Train your Dog</title>
		<link>http://www.dogsandcats101.com/2010/08/04/how-to-crate-train-your-dog/</link>
		<comments>http://www.dogsandcats101.com/2010/08/04/how-to-crate-train-your-dog/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Thu, 05 Aug 2010 00:11:50 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Jan</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Pictures]]></category>
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		<category><![CDATA[dog crate]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.dogsandcats101.com/?p=657</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[
Your dog&#8217;s attitude to their crate depends on how you train them to use it. It&#8217;s unlikely that they will be nervous about their crate when they see it for the first time.You must take the time to show them that being inside their crate isn&#8217;t a punishment, it isn&#8217;t a scary place, and they [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div id="_mcePaste"><a href="http://www.dogsandcats101.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/08/Highlander-Walk-Through-Crate-Gate-Combo.jpeg"><img class="alignleft size-full wp-image-658" title="Highlander Walk-Through Crate &amp; Gate Combo" src="http://www.dogsandcats101.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/08/Highlander-Walk-Through-Crate-Gate-Combo.jpeg" alt="" /></a></div>
<div id="_mcePaste">Your dog&#8217;s attitude to their crate depends on how you train them to use it. It&#8217;s unlikely that they will be nervous about their crate when they see it for the first time.You must take the time to show them that being inside their crate isn&#8217;t a punishment, it isn&#8217;t a scary place, and they can relax and feel safe when they are inside.</div>
<div id="_mcePaste">When it comes to crate training, it doesn&#8217;t matter how old your dog is. The same methods are used whether they are 6 weeks old, 6 months old or even 6 years old. Remember that your dog is an individual, and not all dogs learn at the same rate.</div>
<div id="_mcePaste">The first step in crate training your dog is to put the crate in your living room with the door open, and let them have a good look at it. They will smell it, and may even walk inside. Get a handful of your dog&#8217;s favorite treats, those special ones that are kept just for training sessions. Diced chicken is popular with most dogs. Use the treat to lure your dog into the crate, and even if they only put one foot inside at first, give them the reward. That&#8217;s a good start.  If you&#8217;re concerned about a crate taking up a ton of space in your living room, you may want to get <a href="http://www.wooddogcrate.com/"> wooden dog crate </a>.  These dog crates serve as an end table in your living room and eliminate the need for a bulky crate that takes up extra space.</div>
<div id="_mcePaste">Spend five minutes on this process, and repeat it several times a day. Make sure you never rush your dog, and always finish your training session on a happy note.</div>
<div id="_mcePaste">When your dog is quite happy to stroll into their crate for the reward, you can then throw a snack into the rear of the crate. It should land far enough back so that they have to walk right inside to get it. This is teaching them that good things happen inside the crate. They will probably come right out of the crate after eating their snack; that&#8217;s quite okay.</div>
<div id="_mcePaste">At this point, start giving him his meals in the crate, again with the door open, and this will also encourage a positive association with it.</div>
<div id="_mcePaste">It&#8217;s time to start closing the door. In the early stages, throw a treat into the crate, and when your dog is inside, shut the door for just a second or two, then open it up and give them another reward. Repeat this process again and again, so they learn that there&#8217;s no need to worry if the door is shut.</div>
<div id="_mcePaste">Over time, slowly increase the duration your dog spends in the crate with the door closed. Give them toys such as a stuffed Kong to keep them amused while they are inside. Because all of their interactions with their crate have been pleasant and have involved a delicious treat, they are unlikely to be bothered by being locked inside.</div>
<div id="_mcePaste">This is a long slow process, and the time it takes varies from dog to dog. It is very worthwhile taking as long as your dog needs, because there are many advantages to having a dog that settles in a crate. Vacations, travel and even forcing them to rest after an operation are always much easier with a crate.</div>
<p>How to Crate Train your DogYour dog&#8217;s attitude to their crate depends on how you train them to use it. It&#8217;s unlikely that they will be nervous about their crate when they see it for the first time.You must take the time to show them that being inside their crate isn&#8217;t a punishment, it isn&#8217;t a scary place, and they can relax and feel safe when they are inside.<br />
When it comes to crate training, it doesn&#8217;t matter how old your dog is. The same methods are used whether they are 6 weeks old, 6 months old or even 6 years old. Remember that your dog is an individual, and not all dogs learn at the same rate.<br />
The first step in crate training your dog is to put the crate in your living room with the door open, and let them have a good look at it. They will smell it, and may even walk inside. Get a handful of your dog&#8217;s favorite treats, those special ones that are kept just for training sessions. Diced chicken is popular with most dogs. Use the treat to lure your dog into the crate, and even if they only put one foot inside at first, give them the reward. That&#8217;s a good start.  If you&#8217;re concerned about a crate taking up a ton of space in your living room, you may want to get <a href="http://www.wooddogcrate.com/">wood dog crate</a>.  These dog crates serve as an end table in your living room and eliminate the need for a bulky crate that takes up extra space.</p>
<p>Spend five minutes on this process, and repeat it several times a day. Make sure you never rush your dog, and always finish your training session on a happy note.<br />
When your dog is quite happy to stroll into their crate for the reward, you can then throw a snack into the rear of the crate. It should land far enough back so that they have to walk right inside to get it. This is teaching them that good things happen inside the crate. They will probably come right out of the crate after eating their snack; that&#8217;s quite okay.<br />
At this point, start giving him his meals in the crate, again with the door open, and this will also encourage a positive association with it.<br />
It&#8217;s time to start closing the door. In the early stages, throw a treat into the crate, and when your dog is inside, shut the door for just a second or two, then open it up and give them another reward. Repeat this process again and again, so they learn that there&#8217;s no need to worry if the door is shut.<br />
Over time, slowly increase the duration your dog spends in the crate with the door closed. Give them toys such as a stuffed Kong to keep them amused while they are inside. Because all of their interactions with their crate have been pleasant and have involved a delicious treat, they are unlikely to be bothered by being locked inside.<br />
This is a long slow process, and the time it takes varies from dog to dog. It is very worthwhile taking as long as your dog needs, because there are many advantages to having a dog that settles in a crate. Vacations, travel and even forcing them to rest after an operation are always much easier with a crate.</p>
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		<title>BEHAVIOR PROBLEMS IN DOGS by Bill Campbell</title>
		<link>http://www.dogsandcats101.com/2010/07/17/behavior-problems-in-dogs-by-bill-campbell/</link>
		<comments>http://www.dogsandcats101.com/2010/07/17/behavior-problems-in-dogs-by-bill-campbell/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sun, 18 Jul 2010 02:03:05 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Jan</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Books]]></category>
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		<category><![CDATA[worth the reprint]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[behavior]]></category>
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		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.dogsandcats101.com/2009/01/13/behavior-problems-in-dogs-by-bill-campbell/</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[


BEHAVIOR PROBLEMS IN DOGS
by Bill Campbell



 
 a MUST HAVE BOOK..     I refer to it often and even call Bill..ALSO AT THE PUBLIC LIBRARY&#8230;..
from Bill, worth the read..
HOW DOGS THINK
A NON-VERBAL LINK TO CANINE COMMUNICATION
copyright 1995 by William E. Campbell
Have you ever seen a device or a program designed to correct a dog behavior problem [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<table style="height: 3048px;" border="0" cellspacing="2" cellpadding="0" width="443">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td colspan="2"><a href="http://www.amazon.com/Behavior-Problems-Dogs-William-Campbell/dp/0966870506"><span class="largeBold">BEHAVIOR PROBLEMS IN DOGS</span></a><br />
by <a href="http://www.dogwise.com/SearchResults.cfm?Search=Bill%20Campbell&amp;SubSearch=author">Bill Campbell</a></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td width="105" valign="top"><strong><img src="http://www.dogwise.com/Photos/Medium/DTB101_b.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></strong></p>
<p><strong> </strong></td>
<td valign="top"><strong><span class="newBold"> </span>a MUST HAVE BOOK..     I refer to it often and even call Bill..</strong><strong>ALSO AT THE PUBLIC LIBRARY&#8230;..</strong></p>
<p>from Bill, worth the read..</p>
<h1>HOW DOGS THINK<br />
A NON-VERBAL LINK TO CANINE COMMUNICATION</h1>
<p>copyright 1995 by William E. Campbell</p>
<p>Have you ever seen a device or a program designed to correct a dog behavior problem that explained how smart <a id="KonaLink1" href="http://www.webtrail.com/petbehavior/dogthink.html#" target="undefined"><span style="color: blue;">dogs</span></a> are and how  they think? Most plans or gadgets enable owners, literally, to declare war on their hapless pets. Little or no concern is afforded to what the dogs happen to think about them. In fact, the implication is that dogs don&#8217;t think at all &#8230; either they just react to external stimuli like robots , or respond according to genetically controlled &#8220;drives.&#8221; Dogs are rarely credited with the ability to solve a problem mentally; to analyze a situation; imagine ways to manipulate or control it, then take a pre-planned course of action toward a goal that was preconceived in the dog&#8217;s mind. In short, the dog is considered a real dummy, then treated like a dummy. But this concept is not correct. Dogs are smart. They can, and usually do, think rings around their owners. And they can do it because most owners have never learned how to think like a dog.</p>
<h2>Understanding Non-Verbal Thinking</h2>
<p>We all wonder now and then what our dog is thinking. If we wonder aloud, perhaps when mealtime is approaching and the dog is looking expectantly at us, we might say something like, &#8220;I&#8217;ll bet Tippy&#8217;s thinking, &#8216;When is my dinner going to be ready?&#8217; &#8221; In all likelihood, Tippy isn&#8217;t originating any thoughts about &#8216;when dinner will be ready.&#8217; It is more likely Tippy is imagining (or &#8216;imaging&#8217; in his mind) the words and movements you usually say and perform before getting his dinner; something like, &#8220;You want dinner, Tippy?&#8221; All that tail wagging and those pleading eyes are aimed at stimulating you to say it.</p>
<p>But, an inability to originate thoughts in a spoken language does not make dogs unintelligent. Even people don&#8217;t actively think in a spoken language unless they actively &#8217;speak&#8217; it. For instance, during a short vacation to Japan, if you don&#8217;t already speak the language, you&#8217;ll probably pick up the meaning of a few words. After a few natives look at you in the morning and say &#8220;Ohio,&#8221; you may eventually learn that they&#8217;re not curious about where you&#8217;re from, but are wishing you a &#8220;Good Morning.&#8221; Still, you won&#8217;t think in Japanese unless you live there a few months and actively speak it. Even a pet <a id="KonaLink2" href="http://www.webtrail.com/petbehavior/dogthink.html#" target="undefined"><span style="color: blue;">Akita</span></a> will never  learn to speak or think in the native lingo because their voice boxes, tongues and lips cannot formulate the sounds of Japanese &#8230; or English, or French, etc, etc. The limit of our dog&#8217;s language-learning is the meaning of the sounds of certain words. Luckily, dogs are quick to learn the sounds that are important to them.</p>
<p>With this in mind, when Tippy is prodding us about serving dinner, we&#8217;d be wise to discard ideas about complete sentences being originated and thought about, and replace them with the non-language concept of mental images. To illustrate this further; when most Tippys are asking for dinner they actually look from their owners toward the place where it is served, generally the kitchen.</p>
<h2>Evidence of Imagery</h2>
<p>Some very convincing research suggests that dogs think in sensory impressions; visual, sound and odor images, etc. This is not to say that they sit around on quiet days experiencing videos inside their brains. However, they likely share our ability to form and experience in their minds certain images, odors and sounds. The scientific basis for this idea came from Russia and was published in the US in 1973. A scientist name VS.. Rusinov<sup>1</sup> was studying the electrophysiology of the brain and had several dogs wired with brain wave equipment and radio transmitters. When the dogs were brought into the lab from the kennels for experimental conditioning tests, the electroencephalograph machine was turned on to record their brain wave patterns. This was done at the same time each day, five days a week. One weekend, purely by accident, Rusinov brought a group of visitors into the lab and turned on the EEG machine. Lo, the dog that was normally schedule for tests during the week at that time was sending wave forms nearly identical to his regular working patterns! When the testing time passed, the dogs&#8217; brain waves soon returned to their normal &#8216;at rest&#8217; forms. I never found any mention by Rusinov as to whether the dogs out in the kennel were actually performing their conditioned laboratory behaviorisms. Chances are they were not, but one thing is almost sure; compared to human experience in similar types of studies, the dogs were apparently experiencing them mentally<sup>2,3</sup>.</p>
<p>The late Polish scientist, Jerzi Konorski,<sup>3</sup> taught dogs to salivate and expect food in their trays when a light flickered. This was done regularly every few minutes. However, after a few trials, the dogs started salivating and looking at the trays as if the food were actually there, even though the light had not flickered. Konorski ventured that the dogs were hallucinating about both the stimulus (the light) and the reward for salivating (the food). One thing is sure: Something was going on in the dogs&#8217; minds that made them behave as if they were happening.</p>
<h2>Some Human Examples</h2>
<p>Before going on with dogs, let us consider some facets of our own &#8216;mind&#8217;s eye,&#8217; as suggested by Konorski. Imagine we have a date to meet a loved one at a busy restaurant. We get there on time and sit at a <a id="KonaLink3" href="http://www.webtrail.com/petbehavior/dogthink.html#" target="undefined"><span style="color: blue;">table</span></a> near the  door. Fifteen minutes go by, but no friend arrives. We begin to wonder if they are coming at all. We start watching people approach the door. Pretty soon, people with similar features almost cause us to call out to them. The more concerned and anxious we become, the more apt we are to mistake strangers for our friend. When he or she finally arrives, the pleasure and relief we feel is often mixed with mild displeasure. We are ambivalent &#8230; we have mixed emotions about meeting them in the future.</p>
<p>Almost everyone has mental imagery. Often, just the thought of a loved one conjures up their image. This can apply to sounds, as well. Think about your favorite musical piece and your can often hear it in your &#8216;mind&#8217;s ear.&#8217; These are positive images. They are emotionally pleasant. At the other end of the scale, recalling a terrifying experience can not only create its images, but sometime even make us shudder. This is an example of negative, emotionally unpleasant images.</p>
<h2>Back To Dogs</h2>
<p>So it is with our dogs. When we are late getting home, or if they over-miss us because we spoil them with attention and petting every time they demand it, they very likely worry in images, too. They may well recall images of us and our activities, such as fluffing the pillows on the <a id="KonaLink4" href="http://www.webtrail.com/petbehavior/dogthink.html#" target="undefined"><span style="color: blue;">sofa</span></a>, putting  away record albums, handling magazines and books, putting on shoes just before leaving, sitting in a favorite armchair, etc. As a result of this, they often engage in activities which involve them with these images: Pillows wind up on the floor, albums or magazines are moved or chewed, a <a id="KonaLink5" href="http://www.webtrail.com/petbehavior/dogthink.html#" target="undefined"><span style="color: blue;">chair</span></a> seat gets  dug up, shoes are brought out of the closet. If they can&#8217;t have us there, they try to interact with things that symbolize us.</p>
<p>If dogs really do store up and recall images of us and life&#8217;s other objects and experiences, it follows that we might use this to our mutual benefit. But since most owners do not understand how dogs think, this imagery is where the seeds of most behavior problems are sown. Dogs receive and recall conflicting images of owners and many important experiences.</p>
<h2>The Puppy&#8217;s Dilemma</h2>
<p>Consider the <a id="KonaLink6" href="http://www.webtrail.com/petbehavior/dogthink.html#" target="undefined"><span style="color: blue;">new puppy</span></a> whose  owners come home at regular times and join in an ecstatically joyful greeting ceremony. This imagery is quickly ingrained, and the pup begins to anticipate the experience, just Konorski&#8217;s dogs hallucinated about the flickering light and the food tray. However, as will happen in even the most well regulated <a id="KonaLink7" href="http://www.webtrail.com/petbehavior/dogthink.html#" target="undefined"><span style="color: blue;">household</span></a>, one  day the owner is late. The puppy begins experiencing the images of his tardy owners &#8230; starts fretting, pacing. Well primed energies, ready for the greeting ceremony, demand an outlet as the adrenaline starts pumping.</p>
<p>What&#8217;s going on in its mind&#8217;s eye or ear? It probably imagines hearing footsteps, perhaps even sees the door open&#8230; which doesn&#8217;t happen. But it should. This introduces conflict between what it wants and expects and what is really happening. Conflict creates frustration. Frustration produces anxiety, which triggers an even greater adrenaline rush. The pup searches for something real to satisfy its desire to &#8216;experience&#8217; the owner &#8230; a magazine or book it saw the owner reading recently. It is rich with the owner&#8217;s scent. If it cannot have the owner there, it can at least have their genuine odor or taste. So it sniffs, tastes, maybe even swallows parts of the article. Naturally, this does not fully substitute for the whole owner, so the puppy&#8217;s social appetite is not really satisfied.</p>
<p>Finally, here comes the owner. The puppy innocently launches into its joyous, semi-hysterical ritual. The owner starts to join in, but spies the pulverized magazine or book. What&#8217;s this? Naturally, if not wisely, the owner angrily grabs the pup, drags it to the demolished object and scolds it, or slaps it&#8217;s snout or rump, or both. The pet&#8217;s single-track mind is riveted on the owner. It yips, rolls over, or struggles vainly to escape. Punishment concluded, the owner angrily picks up the remnants of the article and storms to the trash basket.</p>
<h2>Psychic Trauma</h2>
<p>The net result of this is a totally confused pup with a conflicting set of images of its owner. This sort of shock to the nervous system is called psychic trauma in both animals and humans. A conflict has been instilled between the positive image of the owner (happy Dr. Jekyll) and the negative (Mr. Homecoming Hyde). This creates frustration and anxiety about homecomings, growing in severity if the scenario is repeated a few times. (It is interesting that in many cases, owners tell us that the pup was fine for a day or so after the first punishment. This may equate to the human experience of repression, in which memory of the traumatic experience is suppressed, creating a sort of &#8216;backwards amnesia.&#8217;) Even when this occurs, since the punishment was not associated with the act of chewing up something, the puppy seeks out another article, perhaps a shoe, and the cycle is repeated until the total relationship between owner and dog is tainted with emotional ambivalence. Mixed feelings are eating away at the positive qualities of their relationship. Negative emotional impressions may start to dominate it.</p>
<p>At about this stage, many owners conclude that the punishment may not have been severe enough. That&#8217;s why the correction was not permanent. So they intensify it. The relationship erodes further as weeks go by. Enough of this cascading negative effect and the owner is ready take drastic action. The dog, now hyper-sensitive to its owner&#8217;s mood change, feels something is wrong. This often is reflected by new problems, such as submissive wetting when the owner comes home or approaches the dog at other times; off-schedule bowel movements or urination occur, etc.</p>
<p>Many pets act insecure, currying more favor when the owner is home, and hence, missing the owner even more acutely when left alone. Frustration and anxiety build, while the isolation-related, tension-relieving behavior mounts. The unwitting owner, who originally may have thought the dog is &#8216;getting even&#8217; for being left alone, begins to consider it incorrigible.</p>
<h2>HELP!</h2>
<p>This is when outside help is often sought. A book is purchased. The veterinarian, breeder, pet shop, a trainer or behaviorist may be consulted. If lucky, the owner gets advice that brings genuine insight into pet/owner relationships and dog behavior. But, more likely, they find traditional quick fixes and the dog winds up in a desensitization program; gets dosed with anxiety relieving drugs or barbiturates; is stuck in a cramped crate or cage all day, or banned to the yard or garage, or has its mouth stuffed with chewed debris and taped shut for hours. Since none of these approaches deal with the causes, the &#8216;thinking dog&#8217; and the total relationship with its owners and the environment, success is rare. The majority of these formerly precious pets find themselves rejected &#8230; relegated to the local pound for five to seven days, where the odds are 3-to-2 they&#8217;ll suffer society&#8217;s &#8216;ultimate solution&#8217;. But things don&#8217;t have to be so grim, if the owners learn some &#8216;dog think.&#8217;</p>
<h2>Applying Positive Imagery To Solve &#8216;Separation Anxiety&#8217;</h2>
<p>Dogs that misbehave when they are left alone are said to be suffering from separation anxiety. The term is a neat buzz-phrase; almost everybody uses it. It sounds professional. The trouble is, as a transplant from human psychiatry, it really doesn&#8217;t convey much useful information. However, the term is here, so we&#8217;ll use it in its broadest sense, which is; &#8220;a troubled feeling when left alone or apart from a certain person or persons.&#8221; This allows us to recommend a remedial behavioral program that deals with the realities of the dog&#8217;s total relationships. First, however, we must be sure that the dog&#8217;s veterinarian has ruled out the many physical/medical causes for anxiety, such as thyrotoxicosis, hyperthyroidism, pre-diabetes, encephalitis, allergies, hyperkinesis, etc. etc.</p>
<h2>The Program</h2>
<p>Dogs that are unduly upset when left alone usually enjoy their owner&#8217;s attention and petting whenever they ask for (or demand it) when the people are at home. To apply the imagery concept to this relationship, we could say the dog &#8217;sees itself&#8217; as directing, or leading the owner. When it wants some petting, it nudges or otherwise stimulates the owner, and the owner complies. The dog wants out, whines at the door or at the owner, and the door gets opened. Mealtime approaches, dog whines and prances, and dinner gets served. When the owner goes from room to room, the dog is either ahead, leading them, or close behind. This is the reality of their relationship, at least in the dog&#8217;s mind. But, when the owner leaves, against the dog&#8217;s wishes, the pet is predictably upset, and problem behavior occurs. This can involve barking, chewing, pacing, self-mutilation, off-schedule bowel movements, urination around the house, etc.</p>
<p>The leadership problem can be turned about by presenting a different reality to the dog; one in which the dog is pleasantly, but firmly and consistently told to perform some simple act, such as &#8217;sit&#8217; whenever it attempts to gain attention or affection, or whenever the owner wants to give the dog some attention. All &#8217;sits&#8217;, or whatever command is used (&#8216;down&#8217; is a good one for highly bossy dogs) are praised happily as 3 to 5 seconds of petting is awarded; then the dog is cheerfully released with an &#8220;OK&#8221; or &#8220;Free.&#8221; (Free is a good release because OK is too common a word.)</p>
<p>If a really bossy dog refuses to obey, and many do when they realize their relationship is being turned around, simply ignore the situation, turn away and go on about some other activity, ignoring the dog. Some dogs have refused to respond for as long as four days before coming to terms with a follower relationship. However long it takes, after a few days the dog&#8217;s image of itself seems to evolve from one of giving direction to taking it with compliance prior to being petted, getting dinner, going out the door, getting on the couch, etc.</p>
<p>In moving around the house, whenever the dog forges ahead, simply about-turn and go the other way. This must be repeated until the dog walks patiently behind or, better yet, doesn&#8217;t even follow. It is also helpful, but not vital, to practice down-stays of increasing length during several evenings a week.</p>
<h2>Images of Hyper-Emotionality</h2>
<p>Most &#8216;home alone&#8217; problem dogs get extremely emotional when their owners get home; some even get excitable when regular departure times approach. To supplant these emotionally over-stimulating images, sit quietly for about five minutes before leaving, in the area where the dog will be left. No eye contact or speaking is allowed. Then, get up and go without looking at or speaking to the pet.</p>
<p>At homecoming, enter quietly and ignore the dog until it quiets down completely. Then it is greeted happily, but briefly, away from the door of arrival. This subdued routine soon replaces the dog&#8217;s highly emotional mental images of returns and departures with calmness and serenity.</p>
<p>Here&#8217;s the tough part for most all dog owners: When coming home the place is a mess! Pillows have been chewed, or the chair is tattered again, or a pile of poop graces the doorway, or some other problem is evident. If we keep in mind that the dog has in the past suffered from conflicting images at homecoming, it is imperative that no emotion, or even attention, should be directed at the remnants of the problem; such as chewed up magazines, shoes, defecation, etc. Instead, after five minutes of ignoring the dog, it should be greeted away from the scene of the misbehavior, and then pleasantly taken outdoors or to another room and left alone while the mess is cleaned up. This avoids creating new (or reinforcing old) conflicting images of emotional reactions to, or interactions with, the debris, defecation, etc.</p>
<p>I have always called this &#8216;the secret clean-up&#8217;. It has worked wonders as part of programs ranging from digging in the yard to housetraining puppies. Just why it is such an effective adjunct to correction programs remains to be satisfactorily explained. In the meantime, we&#8217;ll have to say that the lack of an image of the owner and the mess is more beneficial to correction than is the image.</p>
<h2>The Big Picture</h2>
<p>So, there it is. Dogs think in images and we can mold and change their behavior in hundreds of ways if we will think as they do. For instance, on the negative side, a set up whereby a car screeches to a stop, horn blaring, just as a dog starts toward the street from the sidewalk, then praising its retreat, is a valuable exercise in negative imagery. However, it must be repeated until the dog avoids the street when cars are not present, as well.</p>
<p>Teaching the &#8216;panic&#8217; command to come needs the dog&#8217;s name followed by a code word, a sound image that is exclusive to coming when it is absolutely necessary, and praise words or a vocal rhythm that is unique to that command, coupled with fast hand-clapping while taking a crouched position. These combined, positive images can create a dog that will dependably respond to your code word and come to your praise. It is especially important to teach this command when the dog is out of sight, as well.</p>
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			<wfw:commentRss>http://www.dogsandcats101.com/2010/07/17/behavior-problems-in-dogs-by-bill-campbell/feed/</wfw:commentRss>
		<slash:comments>2</slash:comments>
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		<title>&#8220;the dog was outside all day and then came in and peed!&#8221; Dumb dog.. no dumb owner..</title>
		<link>http://www.dogsandcats101.com/2010/05/25/the-dog-was-outside-all-day-and-then-came-in-and-peed-dumb-dog-no-dumb-owner/</link>
		<comments>http://www.dogsandcats101.com/2010/05/25/the-dog-was-outside-all-day-and-then-came-in-and-peed-dumb-dog-no-dumb-owner/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Tue, 25 May 2010 18:38:43 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Jan</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[blog]]></category>
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		<category><![CDATA[dog house training]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[dogs]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.dogsandcats101.com/?p=624</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Here is what happens&#8230;
Fido is alone all day in the yard while you are at work&#8230;  He hears your car pull up and he wakes up.. all happy and tail wagging to see you.  You are such a happy owner so you let Fido into the house&#8230; Guess what?  Fido has not peed since before [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Here is what happens&#8230;</p>
<p>Fido is alone all day in the yard while you are at work&#8230;  He hears your car pull up and he wakes up.. all happy and tail wagging to see you.  You are such a happy owner so you let Fido into the house&#8230; Guess what?  Fido has not peed since before he fell aslepp three hours ago after that big drink of water&#8230;</p>
<p>What to do?  Go out side and play with Fido for a bit until you see him releave himself.. make it a habit.. dogs, and people are creatures of habit..</p>
<p>Very simple, yes?  and I am sorry I called you stupid..</p>
<p>-Jan</p>
<p><a href="http://www.dogsandcats101.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/05/So-embarrassed.-My-ears-were-inside-out-the-entire-time-I-was-at-the-dog-park..jpg"><img class="alignleft size-full wp-image-625" title="Holly Golightly says:So embarrassed. My ears were inside out the entire time I was at the dog park." src="http://www.dogsandcats101.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/05/So-embarrassed.-My-ears-were-inside-out-the-entire-time-I-was-at-the-dog-park..jpg" alt="" /></a></p>
<p class="buymebeer"><form action="https://www.paypal.com/cgi-bin/webscr" target="paypal" method="post"><input type="hidden" name="cmd" value="_xclick" /><input type="hidden" name="business" value="janreesman@mac.com" /><input type="hidden" name="return" value="Steve at BostonRockDog.com and Leo Laporte" /><input type="hidden" name="item_name" value="Nitro senior pet donations for "the dog was outside all day and then came in and peed!" Dumb dog.. no dumb owner.." /><input type="hidden" name="amount" value="" /><input type="image" src="http://www.dogsandcats101.com/wp-content/plugins/buy-me-beer/icon_beer.gif" align="left" alt="Buy us some Catnip or a Biscuit!" title="Buy us some Catnip or a Biscuit!" hspace="3" /></form><a href="https://www.paypal.com/cgi-bin/webscr?cmd=_xclick&amp;business=janreesman@mac.com&amp;amount=&amp;return=Steve at BostonRockDog.com and Leo Laporte&amp;item_name=Nitro+senior+pet+donations+for+"the+dog+was+outside+all+day+and+then+came+in+and+peed!"+Dumb+dog..+no+dumb+owner.." target="paypal">PLEASE donate to pet rescue</a></p>]]></content:encoded>
			<wfw:commentRss>http://www.dogsandcats101.com/2010/05/25/the-dog-was-outside-all-day-and-then-came-in-and-peed-dumb-dog-no-dumb-owner/feed/</wfw:commentRss>
		<slash:comments>5</slash:comments>
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		<title>New Dog In The House &#8211; watch 3 minute video before u bring the new dog home</title>
		<link>http://www.dogsandcats101.com/2010/03/28/new-dog-in-the-house-watch-video-before-u-bring-the-dog-home/</link>
		<comments>http://www.dogsandcats101.com/2010/03/28/new-dog-in-the-house-watch-video-before-u-bring-the-dog-home/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Mon, 29 Mar 2010 02:05:33 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Jan</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Podcast]]></category>
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		<category><![CDATA[new]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.dogsandcats101.com/?p=596</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Click this  link.. 3 minutes that will change your life.. 


]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p style="text-align: center;"><strong><a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xiiXNoqShdU">Click this  link.. 3 minutes that will change your life.. </a></strong></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xiiXNoqShdU"></a><a href="http://www.dogsandcats101.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/03/2200PY-Carlson-Convertible-Pet-Yard_tn1.jpg"><img class="size-full wp-image-607 aligncenter" title="2200PY-Carlson-Convertible-Pet-Yard_tn" src="http://www.dogsandcats101.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/03/2200PY-Carlson-Convertible-Pet-Yard_tn1.jpg" alt="" /></a></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.dogsandcats101.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/03/2200PY-Carlson-Convertible-Pet-Yard_tn1.jpg"></a><a href="http://www.dogsandcats101.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/03/draw-crate-dog.jpg"><img class="size-full wp-image-609 aligncenter" title="draw-crate--dog" src="http://www.dogsandcats101.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/03/draw-crate-dog.jpg" alt="" width="140" height="185" /></a></p>
]]></content:encoded>
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		<title>Are You Sure Your Pet Bird Gets All the Nutrients He Needs?</title>
		<link>http://www.dogsandcats101.com/2010/02/11/are-you-sure-your-pet-bird-gets-all-the-nutrients-he-needs/</link>
		<comments>http://www.dogsandcats101.com/2010/02/11/are-you-sure-your-pet-bird-gets-all-the-nutrients-he-needs/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Thu, 11 Feb 2010 18:47:21 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Jan</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Pictures]]></category>
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		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.dogsandcats101.com/?p=585</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[from  Dr. Karen Becker
Are You Sure Your Pet Bird Gets All the Nutrients He Needs?
Jan&#8217;s 23 year old Huey and Seattle 













































Calling all bird owners!
In this short video, Dr. Karen Becker shares her tips for a balanced, nutritious diet that will have your pet bird feeling and looking his best.

 //  









Pet bird nutrition [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><a href="http://healthypets.mercola.com/sites/healthypets/dr-karen-becker.aspx">from  Dr. Karen Becker</a></p>
<h1>Are You Sure Your Pet Bird Gets All the Nutrients He Needs?</h1>
<p>Jan&#8217;s 23 year old Huey and Seattle <img class="alignnone size-full wp-image-586" title="Seattle and Huey" src="http://www.dogsandcats101.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/02/Seattle-and-Huey.jpg" alt="Seattle and Huey" width="255" height="251" /></p>
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<p>Calling all bird owners!</p>
<p>In this short video, Dr. Karen Becker shares her tips for a balanced, nutritious diet that will have your pet bird feeling and looking his best.</p></div>
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<div id="dr-becker-content"><span id="ctl00_ctl00_ctl00_bcr_bcr_bcr_lblDrComments">Pet bird nutrition has evolved over the last half century.</p>
<p>Once upon a time bird owners were told all they needed to feed their pets were fortified seed diets. When my avian veterinarian 30 years ago suggested I add legumes and fresh veggies to the all seed diet I fed my birds, I assumed I was offering my flock the best diet imaginable.</p>
<p>Nowadays, much more is known about the specific nutritional requirements of domesticated birds.</p>
<p>Whether your bird is a psittacine such as a budgie parakeet, cockatiel, or a macaw, or a passerine like a finch or canary, you can dramatically influence the health and behavior of your feathered companion by feeding a balanced, nutritious diet.</p>
<h2>If You’re Still Feeding a Seed-Based Diet, It’s Time for a Change</h2>
<p>Today, your avian veterinarian is likely to recommend you replace your bird’s seed-based diet with a much more nutritious pelleted-based diet &#8212; preferably organic, dye and chemical free.</p>
<p>These diets come in the form of pellets, crumbles or nuggets. You can find them easily at pet stores, vet offices, and online. The formulations differ depending on what type of bird you have, so you’ll want to choose a blend suitable for your pet.</p>
<p>If you own a macaw or a Golden conure, for example, you’ll probably choose a formulation with a higher fat content. If your pet is an Amazon or perhaps a cockatoo, you’ll want to choose a diet low in fat and higher in protein.</p>
<p>If you’re not sure which formulation is best for your bird, check with your avian veterinarian.</p>
<p>To round out the pelleted diet and balance your bird’s nutritional intake, I recommend you add the following items:</p>
<ul>
<li>Fresh fruits and veggies, preferably organic</li>
<li>Legumes and whole grain pasta</li>
<li>Whole, unsalted raw nuts</li>
<li>Seeds, but they should account for no more than 30 percent of the diet</li>
</ul>
<h2>Tips for Adding Fresh Fruits and Vegetables</h2>
<p>As every bird owner knows, your pet can be quite finicky when it comes to her food.</p>
<p>If your bird is used to a seed or pellet diet, you should anticipate a period during which the fruits and veggies you offer her will wind up everywhere but in her mouth.</p>
<p>Don’t be surprised if your bird drops her healthy fresh food out of the cage or flings it against a wall. She may play with it, shred it, or ignore it completely. And this behavior may go on for several months, but don’t despair.</p>
<p>This is where your patience and persistence will pay off. Your bird might be finicky, but she’s also naturally inquisitive. Given time and the consistent presence of a new food, most birds will eventually be curious enough to sample, and then begin to eat it.</p>
<p>There are a wide variety of vegetables you can add to your bird’s diet, including:</p>
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<td>Broccoli</td>
<td>Eggplant</td>
<td>Peppers (sweet)</td>
<td>Sugar snap or snow peas</td>
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<td>Carrots</td>
<td>Endive</td>
<td>Radicchio</td>
<td>Squash</td>
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<td>Cauliflower</td>
<td>Green Beans</td>
<td>Radishes</td>
<td>Sweet potatoes</td>
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<td>Collard greens</td>
<td>Kale</td>
<td>Red potatoes (cooked)</td>
<td>Tomatoes</td>
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<td>Corn</td>
<td>Kohlrabi</td>
<td>Red beets (peeled)</td>
<td>Turnips</td>
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<td>Cucumber</td>
<td>Parsley</td>
<td>Romaine lettuce</td>
<td>Turnip and beet greens</td>
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<p>Healthy fruits you can incorporate include:</p>
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<td>Cherries</td>
<td>Peaches</td>
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<td>Banana</td>
<td>Cranberries</td>
<td>Pears</td>
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<td>Berries</td>
<td>Grapes</td>
<td>Pineapple</td>
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<h2>Does Your Bird Have Any of These Problems?</h2>
<p>As pet bird nutrition science has continued to improve, birds are living longer, healthier lives.</p>
<p>However, over the years I noticed something about many of the domesticated birds I saw at Feathers Bird Clinic, my avian hospital. It seemed even high quality nutrition wasn’t enough to eliminate certain health and behavior problems, including:</p>
<ul>
<li>Dull feather coat with poor pigmentation</li>
<li>Excessive powder down</li>
<li>Flaky beak and nails</li>
<li>Over grooming and self-mutilation</li>
<li>Itchy, irritated skin</li>
<li>Toe-tapping, wind-flapping and feather picking</li>
</ul>
<p>I realized that even with the great strides made in understanding pet bird nutrition, something was still amiss when it came to providing optimal wellness for birds living in captive environments.</p>
<p>Birds in the wild get a much wider variety of nutrition than domesticated birds. They have access to types of seeds and berries, for example, which are simply impossible for you to provide to your companion bird.</p>
<p>Wild birds also have <a href="http://healthypets.mercola.com/sites/healthypets/archive/2010/01/27/why-pet-birds-seriously-need-ultraviolet-light.aspx">natural sunlight</a>, complete freedom of movement, and the ability to create their own preferred habitats. These are things your pet living inside your home does not have, even though many avian owners do a wonderful job simulating as closely as possible a natural environment for their birds.</p>
<h2>Your Feathered Companion Might be Deficient in This Important Nutrient</h2>
<p>Around the time I was trying to solve the puzzle of why even nutritionally sound birds continued to experience certain health challenges, I was also coming to terms with the fact that I needed more fatty acids in my own diet.</p>
<p>These were seemingly unrelated circumstances, however, it occurred to me it might be that my birds and many others I saw at my avian hospital weren’t getting a healthy supply of fatty acids, either.</p>
<p>As soon as I began supplementing my flock’s diet with essential fatty acids, I noticed several improvements. My African gray’s dull tail, which also had a stress bar (a horizontal black line devoid of color or pigment), became a vibrant red color and the stress marks disappeared.</p>
<p>My umbrella cockatoo’s flaky beak and very dry feet improved.</p>
<p>And my eclectus with the dull green feathers, some of which were actually black, returned to his wonderful bright green hue.</p>
<p>I noticed a dramatic improvement not only in the condition and appearance of my flock&#8217;s feathers, but also in their attitudes and behaviors. They were better able to focus, and in fact, my African gray’s vocabulary began to expand.</p>
<p>The remarkable positive changes I witnessed in my flock made me understand my birds had been dealing with the same fatty acid deficiency I was.</p>
<p>If your bird has any of the problems I listed above and you’re feeding an appropriate pelleted diet plus the add-ons I mentioned, he might be lacking in essential fatty acids. These fatty acids are called “essential” because they must come from the diet – neither humans nor birds make them naturally.</p>
<h2>What Kind of Essential Fatty Acids Does My Bird Need?</h2>
<p>Humans can supplement their diets with fish-based oil like krill oil to get essential fatty acids.</p>
<p>But pet birds and psittacines in particular, are natural vegetarians. They can eat certain bugs and lizards (black palm cockatoos in the wild have been reported to consume some types of lizards), but in general, domesticated birds are not carnivores.</p>
<p>Carnivorous birds are called raptors and include hawks, eagles and falcons. Raptors do require meat as part of a balanced, nutrient-rich diet.</p>
<p>When I started giving my flock coconut oil as their fatty acid supplement, the changes were dramatic. Three months after I added the oil to their diets, the condition of their feather coats was remarkably improved.</p>
<p>Six months and a full molt later, they looked like different birds – so much so that I documented the changes in pictures. I also started recommending coconut oil to clients at my avian clinic.</p>
<p>One of my colleagues, Dr. Greg Harrison, has produced  a derivative from  a certain palm berry called red palm oil or dende oil. This oil is very high in beta-carotenes or carotinoids which supply natural vitamin A.</p>
<p>If you own a colorful bird, the vitamin A from red palm oil can enhance the vibrancy of your bird’s plumage, in addition to enhancing his immune function.</p>
<p>I recommend you offer your bird a small amount of coconut or red palm oil every day to insure his essential fatty acid requirements are met. I think you’ll be delighted at the changes you’ll see in his plumage and the health and condition of his feather coat.</p>
<p>Less obvious but just as important will be the improvement in your bird’s immune system function, which will lead to a longer, healthier life for your avian companion.</p>
<p></span></div>
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		<title>Who Let The Dogs Out? The Gardener!</title>
		<link>http://www.dogsandcats101.com/2009/09/04/who-let-the-dogs-out-the-gardener/</link>
		<comments>http://www.dogsandcats101.com/2009/09/04/who-let-the-dogs-out-the-gardener/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Fri, 04 Sep 2009 16:54:41 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Jan</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[blog]]></category>
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		<category><![CDATA[dog]]></category>
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		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.dogsandcats101.com/?p=370</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[How often we hear, &#8220;I left the collar off because she/he had a bath.  The gardeners left the gate open.&#8221;
A Micro chip is a must, but will not stop a car or scan itself.
Solutions?  Don&#8217;t take the collar off during the bath or don&#8217;t wait til the dog dries off.  Hire a gardener who is [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>How often we hear, &#8220;I left the collar off because she/he had a bath.  The gardeners left the gate open.&#8221;</p>
<p>A Micro chip is a must, but will not stop a car or scan itself.</p>
<p>Solutions?  Don&#8217;t take the collar off during the bath or don&#8217;t wait til the dog dries off.  Hire a gardener who is a &#8220;DOG PERSON&#8221;&#8230;</p>
<p>Or, Teach your pets NOT to leave the yard. Set  <em>boundaries</em>.</p>
<p>Yes you can&#8230;</p>
<p>Here is a good <a href="http://www.amazon.com/dp/9781402722837/dogsandcats10-20">HOW TO</a><a href="http://www.amazon.com/dp/1402722834/dogsandcats10-20"> </a>that I found on the web.. start now..</p>
<p><a href="http://www.amazon.com/dp/1402722834/dogsandcats10-20">Book idea<br />
</a></p>
<p><img class="alignnone size-full wp-image-377" title="41j6kx5llcl_sl500_aa240_" src="http://www.dogsandcats101.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/05/41j6kx5llcl_sl500_aa240_.jpg" alt="41j6kx5llcl_sl500_aa240_" width="172" height="172" /></p>
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		<title>TEACH YOUR DOG THE ONLY PLACE HE CAN EVER ENTER AND EXIT THE POOL IS BY THE STEPS</title>
		<link>http://www.dogsandcats101.com/2009/09/03/teach-your-dog-the-only-place-he-can-ever-enter-and-exit-the-pool-is-by-the-steps/</link>
		<comments>http://www.dogsandcats101.com/2009/09/03/teach-your-dog-the-only-place-he-can-ever-enter-and-exit-the-pool-is-by-the-steps/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Thu, 03 Sep 2009 15:33:13 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Jan</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[blog]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[training]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[dogs]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[pool]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[safety]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[swimming]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[water]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.dogsandcats101.com/?p=456</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[TEACH YOUR DOG THE ONLY PLACE HE CAN EVER ENTER AND EXIT THE POOL IS BY THE STEPS.  Put a large vertical marker that moves (such as a plant or a flag) by the steps so he can easily orient himself.  As you are teaching him to swim, repeat each one of the [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>TEACH YOUR DOG THE ONLY PLACE HE CAN EVER ENTER AND EXIT THE POOL IS BY THE STEPS.  Put a large vertical marker that moves (such as a plant or a flag) by the steps so he can easily orient himself.  As you are teaching him to swim, repeat each one of the following stages a gazillion times before moving to the next stage.  You can reward your dog at each stage by giving him a treat or his favorite toy.</p>
<p>Teach him to touch that marker before he enters the water.  Show him the steps, ramp, or ladder from the deck and say “steps.”  Then take him a short distance away and repeat. Gently place him in the water with his feet on the top step. If you have a helper, you are in the water and your helper is at the top of the steps.  If you are by yourself, attach a leash or long line before you put him in the water and stay by the side of the pool.  Say “steps” and let him gain his footing up the ramp.</p>
<p>VERY GRADUALLY increase the distance from the steps/ramp, and let him swim to the steps and exit.<br />
Stay in the shallow end, and keep the lessons short – no more than ten minutes.<br />
To help your dog swim, position your hands so his rear end is up so he will use all four legs to swim.  He should look like he is running in the water.  You may need to help him by moving his rear legs for him.  If he just uses his front legs, he will most likely sink.  His neck should extend forward and his head should not point up.  Use a food lure if necessary to get him in this position.</p>
<p>Rinse him off or give him a shampoo after your session, and be sure to dry out his ears.  Check his eyes because they may become irritated by the chlorine and need to be rinsed.</p>
<p>After he learns to swim, don’t let him overexert himself.  Swimming is a physically taxing exercise, and he can easily become fatigued.  Take breaks, and watch for signs of exhaustion.</p>
<p>Sometimes despite your best efforts, the unthinkable happens, and you find your dog motionless in the water.  Get him out of the water.  If he is not breathing, hold his rear legs up to let water drain.  Put him on his side.  Clear any debris from his mouth, close his mouth with your hand, and apply mouth-to-nose resuscitation and chest compressions.  Take him to the vet immediately even if he begins to breathe on his own.</p>
<p>If you have taught him how to swim and taught him where the steps are, you can avoid this tragedy.  And you and your dog will have a fantastic time swimming together.</p>
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		<title>My MUST HAVE Dog Training books &#8211; Monks of New Skete</title>
		<link>http://www.dogsandcats101.com/2009/09/02/my-must-have-dog-training-book-monks-of-new-skete/</link>
		<comments>http://www.dogsandcats101.com/2009/09/02/my-must-have-dog-training-book-monks-of-new-skete/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Wed, 02 Sep 2009 17:48:23 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Jan</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Books]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[blog]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[reprint]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[training]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[dog]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[puppy]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.dogsandcats101.com/?p=318</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Read this puppy book, BEFORE  you bring the new dog into the home. It takes longer to undo the damage!!!! At least read the forward and the first chapter.
Buy here or order from your local library..
The Art Of Raising A Puppy
How To Be Your Dogs Best Friend &#8211; The Monks Of New Skete

]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Read this puppy book, BEFORE  you bring the new dog into the home. It takes longer to undo the damage!!!! At least read the forward and the first chapter.</p>
<p>Buy here or order from your local library..</p>
<p><a href="&quot;http://ws.amazon.com/widgets/q?ServiceVersion=20070822&amp;MarketPlace=US&amp;ID=V20070822%2FUS%2Fdogsandcats10-20%2F8001%2F46334d62-3bd1-427a-8a75-6d0376a1f528&amp;Operation=NoScript&quot;&gt;Amazon.com">The Art Of Raising A Puppy</a></p>
<p><a href="http://janreesman.vox.com/library/post/how-to-be-yur-dogs-best-friend---monks-book.html">How To Be Your Dogs Best Friend &#8211; The Monks Of New Skete</a></p>
<p><img class="alignnone size-full wp-image-324" title="artofapuppy" src="http://www.dogsandcats101.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/05/artofapuppy.jpg" alt="artofapuppy" /></p>
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		<title>Beverly Hills Dog walker, dog &amp; puppy classes, private training</title>
		<link>http://www.dogsandcats101.com/2009/09/01/bel-air-dog-walker-dog-puppy-classes-pet-sitting/</link>
		<comments>http://www.dogsandcats101.com/2009/09/01/bel-air-dog-walker-dog-puppy-classes-pet-sitting/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Tue, 01 Sep 2009 21:09:22 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Jan</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[blog]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[celeb pets]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[safety]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[training]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[dog trainer]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[dog walker]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[walking]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.dogsandcats101.com/2008/06/22/bel-air-dog-walker-dog-puppy-classes-pet-sitting/</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Mulholland Estates Dog Walker..
&#8220;Walkin&#8217; The Dog&#8221;   310 739-7334  (Jan)
This is the BIG thing on the West Coast (and The East Coast)&#8230;  Many dog walkers now earn as much or more then many of their clients..   The secret that every dog owner should know is:  having your dog walked professionally 4-5 times a week [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Mulholland Estates Dog Walker..</p>
<p>&#8220;Walkin&#8217; The Dog&#8221;   310 739-7334  (Jan)</p>
<p>This is the BIG thing on the West Coast (and The East Coast)&#8230;  Many dog walkers now earn as much or more then many of their clients..   The secret that every dog owner should know is:  having your dog walked professionally 4-5 times a week also TRAINS your dog&#8230; Dog walkers must have well a well mannered dogs or they will be &#8220;thrown out&#8221; of the local dog parks..</p>
<p><a title="dog-walker_dogwalkr.jpg" href="http://www.dogsandcats101.com/wp-content/uploads/2008/06/dog-walker_dogwalkr.jpg"><img src="http://www.dogsandcats101.com/wp-content/uploads/2008/06/dog-walker_dogwalkr.thumbnail.jpg" alt="dog-walker_dogwalkr.jpg" /></a></p>
<p><strong><span style="color: #666666;">THE BASIC RATE usually:</span></strong><br />
<strong>30 minute dog walks are <span style="color: #339900;">$20</span> dollars for regular clients.</strong></p>
<p>Additional charge for non-regulars..</p>
<p>This is usually a private walk , one-on-one, in your neighborhood.</p>
<p>&#8220;The Hollywood Bitch&#8221; is highly recommended..  email: ragsolden@mac.com</p>
<p>some of her clients have been..</p>
<p>James Caan, Sandy Gallin, Dyan Cannon, John Ritter, Warner Estate, Barry Diller, Richard Dryfus, Rae Dawn Chong, Calvin Klein, Hal Lindin, Whoppi Goldberg&#8230;&#8230;</p>
<p>___________________________________________________________________________________</p>
<p class="Article-Title" align="center"><a title="private" name="private"></a>Private In Home Puppy Lessons</p>
<p class="article-text" align="left">Private lessons are the most comprehensive way for you and your dog or puppy to learn since it is a <span class="article-text-graybold">customized program</span> dealing with your choice of topics and issues – with a input from us regarding things we know  are important.</p>
<p class="article-text" align="left"><span class="article-text-graybold">The private lessons are six hours of training in five lessons.</span> The first lesson is two hours and the remaining four lessons are an hour each. The fee is $200 for the first 2 hour lessons and if you agree to move forward, the fee is $150 for each additional 5 lessons. Includes phone consultations.</p>
<p class="article-text" align="left">What are some <span class="article-text-graybold">advantages to private lessons</span>?</p>
<ul>
<li class="article-text">You and your dog are <span class="article-text-graybold">comfortable</span> learning in your home.</li>
<li class="article-text"> We <span class="article-text-graybold">assess</span> what your current situation is, find out what you want to do, <span class="article-text-graybold">formulate</span> a plan to help you reach your goal, and then <span class="article-text-graybold">work with you</span> to get you there.</li>
<li class="article-text"> You have our <span class="article-text-graybold">undivided attention</span> for the entire lesson, which means that both you and your dog <span class="article-text-graybold">should progress fairly quickly</span>.</li>
<li class="article-text"> Lessons are scheduled to our <span class="article-text-graybold">mutual convenience</span>, usually one to two weeks apart.</li>
<li class="article-text"> We work on <span class="article-text-graybold">basic obedience training</span> as well as solving some <span class="article-text-graybold">behavior problem</span>s.  You receive <span class="article-text-graybold">detailed instructions</span> both orally and in writing as well as <span class="article-text-graybold">strategies</span> to solve specific behavior problems.</li>
<li class="article-text"> You also receive <span class="article-text-graybold">telephone consultations</span> between lessons as needed. <a title="obedience" name="obedience"></a></li>
</ul>
<p class="return_to" align="left">
<p class="article-text" align="left"><span class="article-text-graybold">Basic Obedience and Manners Program</span> includes these behaviors or commands, and we will gladly <span class="article-text-graybold">customize a program</span> to meet your needs.</p>
<p class="article-text" align="left">Basic training is on leash with the goal to be off leash as the puppy ages.</p>
<p class="article-text" align="left">Number 1.. saftey! Using a dog whistle&#8230; IT WORKS!</p>
<ul>
<li class="article-text">Come</li>
<li class="article-text"> Down and Down-stay</li>
<li class="article-text"> Drop it</li>
<li class="article-text"> Go to your place and lie down</li>
<li class="article-text"> Greet people and dogs on leash</li>
<li class="article-text"> Leave it</li>
<li class="article-text"> Off</li>
<li class="article-text"> Sit and Sit-stay</li>
<li class="article-text"> Staying at a distance</li>
<li class="article-text"> Staying with distractions</li>
<li class="article-text"> Stand</li>
<li class="article-text"> Take it</li>
<li class="article-text"> Wait at curbs, gates, and doors</li>
<li class="article-text"> Walking beside you on leash (Heeling)</li>
<li class="article-text"> Watch me (Getting your dog&#8217;s attention)</li>
</ul>
<p>ALSO DOG WALKING:</p>
<p>Licensed Vet Tech and animal behaviorist.<br />
Most of my clients are high profile entertainment dogs. As dogs are walked they are also being trained to behave on a leash, ride in a car, stay out of the street and become generally well manned. They also learn to safely interact with other dogs. All sizes, breeds and behavior welcome. I have never met a dog that I could not handle. $20 per hour when walked 4-5 times weekly.</p>
<p>I am in the Beverly Hills and Mulholland Drive area. Most of my clients are in BH /Bel Air. I am located at Beverly Glen near Mulholland. 310 739-7334  or package88@gmail.com</p>
<p><a title="100_1048.JPG" href="http://www.dogsandcats101.com/wp-content/uploads/2008/05/100_1048.JPG"><img src="http://www.dogsandcats101.com/wp-content/uploads/2008/05/100_1048.thumbnail.JPG" alt="100_1048.JPG" /></a></p>
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		<title>How Dogs Think (Bossy Dogs)</title>
		<link>http://www.dogsandcats101.com/2009/08/27/how-dogs-think-bossy-dogs/</link>
		<comments>http://www.dogsandcats101.com/2009/08/27/how-dogs-think-bossy-dogs/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Thu, 27 Aug 2009 22:17:27 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Jan</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[blog]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[training]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Bossy]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[dogs]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.dogsandcats101.com/2009/08/27/how-dogs-think-bossy-dogs/</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[
Many years ago I studied animal behavior with William Campbell.
Especially see the section in BOLD about Bossy Dogs,, IT WORKS   -Jan

HOW DOGS THINK
A NON-VERBAL LINK TO CANINE COMMUNICATION
Have you ever seen a device or a program designed to correct a dog behavior
problem that explained how smart dogs are and how they think? Most plans [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<ul>
<li>Many years ago I studied animal behavior with William Campbell.</li>
<li>Especially see the section in BOLD about Bossy Dogs,, IT WORKS   -Jan</li>
</ul>
<p>HOW DOGS THINK<br />
A NON-VERBAL LINK TO CANINE COMMUNICATION</p>
<p>Have you ever seen a device or a program designed to correct a dog behavior<br />
problem that explained how smart dogs are and how they think? Most plans or<br />
gadgets enable owners, literally, to declare war on their hapless pets.<br />
Little or no concern is afforded to what the dogs happen to think about<br />
them. In fact, the implication is that dogs don&#8217;t think at all &#8230; either<br />
they just react to external stimuli like robots , or respond according to<br />
genetically controlled &#8220;drives.&#8221;  Dogs are rarely credited with the ability<br />
to solve a problem mentally; to analyze a situation; imagine ways to<br />
manipulate or control it, then take a pre-planned course of action toward a<br />
goal that was preconceived in the dog&#8217;s mind. In short, the dog is<br />
considered a real dummy, then treated like a dummy. But this concept is not<br />
correct. Dogs are smart. They can, and usually do, think rings around their<br />
owners. And they can do it because most owners have never learned how to<br />
think like a dog.</p>
<p>Understanding Non-Verbal Thinking</p>
<p>We all wonder now and then what our dog is thinking. If we wonder aloud,<br />
perhaps when mealtime is approaching and the dog is looking expectantly at<br />
us, we might say something like, &#8220;I&#8217;ll bet Tippy&#8217;s thinking, &#8216;When is my<br />
dinner going to be ready?&#8217; &#8221; In all likelihood, Tippy isn&#8217;t originating any<br />
thoughts about &#8216;when dinner will be ready.&#8217; It is more likely Tippy is<br />
imagining (or &#8216;imaging&#8217; in his mind) the words and movements you usually say<br />
and perform before getting his dinner; something like, &#8220;You want dinner,<br />
Tippy?&#8221; All that tail wagging and those pleading eyes are aimed at<br />
stimulating you to say it.<br />
But, an inability to originate thoughts in a spoken language does not make<br />
dogs unintelligent. Even people don&#8217;t actively think in a spoken language<br />
unless they actively &#8217;speak&#8217; it. For instance, during a short vacation to<br />
Japan, if you don&#8217;t already speak the language, you&#8217;ll probably pick up the<br />
meaning of a few words. After a few natives look at you in the morning and<br />
say &#8220;Ohio,&#8221; you may eventually learn that they&#8217;re not curious about where<br />
you&#8217;re from, but are wishing you a &#8220;Good Morning.&#8221;  Still, you won&#8217;t think<br />
in Japanese unless you live there a few months and actively speak it. Even a<br />
pet Akita will never learn to speak or think in the native lingo because<br />
their voice boxes, tongues and lips cannot formulate the sounds of Japanese<br />
&#8230; or English, or French, etc, etc. The limit of our dog&#8217;s<br />
language-learning is the meaning of the sounds of certain words. Luckily,<br />
dogs are quick to learn the sounds that are important to them.<br />
With this in mind, when Tippy is prodding us about serving dinner, we&#8217;d be<br />
wise to discard ideas about complete sentences being originated and thought<br />
about, and replace them with the non-language concept of mental images. To<br />
illustrate this further; when most Tippys are asking for dinner they<br />
actually look from their owners toward the place where it is served,<br />
generally the kitchen.</p>
<p>Evidence of Imagery</p>
<p>Some very convincing research suggests that dogs think in sensory<br />
impressions; visual, sound and odor images, etc.  This is not to say that<br />
they sit around on quiet days experiencing videos inside their brains.<br />
However, they likely share our ability to form  and experience in their<br />
minds certain images, odors and sounds. The scientific basis for this idea<br />
came from Russia and was published in the US in 1973. A scientist name VS..<br />
Rusinov1 was studying the electrophysiology of the brain and had several<br />
dogs wired with brain wave equipment and radio transmitters. When the dogs<br />
were brought into the lab from the kennels for experimental conditioning<br />
tests, the electroencephalograph machine was turned on to record their brain<br />
wave patterns. This was done at the same time each day, five days a week.<br />
One weekend, purely by accident, Rusinov brought a group of visitors into<br />
the lab and turned on the EEG machine. Lo, the dog that was normally<br />
schedule for tests during the week at that time was sending wave forms<br />
nearly identical to his regular working patterns!  When the testing time<br />
passed, the dogs&#8217; brain waves soon returned to their normal &#8216;at rest&#8217; forms.<br />
I never found any mention by Rusinov as to whether the dogs out in the<br />
kennel were actually  performing their conditioned laboratory behaviorisms.<br />
Chances are they were not, but one thing is almost sure; compared to human<br />
experience in similar types of studies, the dogs were apparently<br />
experiencing them mentally2,3.<br />
The late Polish scientist, Jerzi Konorski,3 taught dogs to salivate and<br />
expect food in their trays when a light flickered. This was done regularly<br />
every few minutes. However, after a few trials, the dogs started salivating<br />
and looking at the trays as if the food were actually there, even though the<br />
light had not flickered. Konorski ventured that the dogs were hallucinating<br />
about both the stimulus (the light) and the reward for salivating (the<br />
food). One thing is sure: Something was going on in the dogs&#8217; minds that<br />
made them behave as if they were happening.</p>
<p>Some Human Examples</p>
<p>Before going on with dogs, let us consider some facets of our own &#8216;mind&#8217;s<br />
eye,&#8217; as suggested by Konorski.  Imagine we have a date to meet a loved one<br />
at a busy restaurant. We get there on time and sit at a table near the door.<br />
Fifteen minutes go by, but no friend arrives. We begin to wonder if they are<br />
coming at all. We start watching people approach the door. Pretty soon,<br />
people with similar features almost cause us to call out to them. The more<br />
concerned and anxious we become, the more apt we are to mistake strangers<br />
for our friend. When he or she finally arrives, the pleasure and relief we<br />
feel is often mixed with mild displeasure. We are ambivalent &#8230; we have<br />
mixed emotions about meeting them in the future.<br />
Almost everyone has mental imagery. Often, just the thought of a loved one<br />
conjures up their image. This can apply to sounds, as well. Think about your<br />
favorite musical piece and your can often hear it in your &#8216;mind&#8217;s ear.&#8217;<br />
These are positive images. They are emotionally pleasant. At the other end<br />
of the scale, recalling a terrifying experience can not only create its<br />
images, but sometime even make us shudder. This is an example of  negative,<br />
emotionally unpleasant images.</p>
<p>Back To Dogs</p>
<p>So it is with our dogs. When we are late getting home, or if they over-miss<br />
us because we spoil them with attention and petting every time they demand<br />
it, they very likely worry in images, too. They may well recall images of us<br />
and our activities, such as fluffing the pillows on the sofa, putting away<br />
record albums, handling magazines and books, putting on shoes just before<br />
leaving, sitting in a favorite armchair, etc. As a result of this, they<br />
often engage in activities which involve them with these images: Pillows<br />
wind up on the floor, albums or magazines are moved or chewed, a<br />
chair seat gets dug up, shoes are brought out of the closet. If they can&#8217;t<br />
have us there, they try to interact with things that symbolize us.<br />
If dogs really do store up and recall images of us and life&#8217;s other objects<br />
and experiences, it follows that we might use this to our mutual benefit.<br />
But since most owners do not understand how dogs think, this imagery is<br />
where the seeds of most behavior problems are sown. Dogs receive and recall<br />
conflicting images of owners and many important experiences.</p>
<p>The Puppy&#8217;s Dilemma</p>
<p>Consider the new puppy whose owners come home at regular times and join<br />
in an ecstatically joyful greeting ceremony. This imagery is quickly<br />
ingrained, and the pup begins to anticipate the experience, just Konorski&#8217;s<br />
dogs hallucinated about the flickering light and the food tray. However, as<br />
will happen in even the most well regulated household, one day the owner is<br />
late. The puppy begins experiencing the images of his tardy owners &#8230;<br />
starts fretting, pacing. Well primed energies, ready for the greeting<br />
ceremony, demand an outlet as the adrenaline starts pumping.<br />
What&#8217;s going on in its mind&#8217;s eye or ear? It probably imagines hearing<br />
footsteps, perhaps even sees the door open&#8230; which doesn&#8217;t happen. But it<br />
should. This introduces conflict between what it wants and expects and what<br />
is really happening. Conflict creates frustration. Frustration produces<br />
anxiety, which triggers an even greater adrenaline rush. The pup searches<br />
for something real to satisfy its desire to &#8216;experience&#8217; the owner &#8230; a<br />
magazine or book it saw the owner reading recently. It is rich with the<br />
owner&#8217;s scent. If  it cannot have the owner there, it can at least have<br />
their genuine odor or taste. So it sniffs, tastes, maybe even swallows parts<br />
of the article. Naturally, this does not fully substitute for the whole<br />
owner, so the puppy&#8217;s social appetite is not really satisfied.<br />
Finally, here comes the owner. The puppy innocently launches into its<br />
joyous, semi-hysterical ritual. The owner starts to join in, but spies the<br />
pulverized magazine or book. What&#8217;s this? Naturally, if not wisely, the<br />
owner angrily grabs the pup, drags it to the demolished object and scolds<br />
it, or slaps it&#8217;s snout or rump, or both. The pet&#8217;s single-track mind is<br />
riveted on the owner. It yips, rolls over, or struggles vainly to escape.<br />
Punishment concluded, the owner angrily picks up the remnants of the article<br />
and storms to the trash basket.</p>
<p>Psychic Trauma</p>
<p>The net result of this is a totally confused pup with a conflicting set of<br />
images of its owner. This sort of shock to the nervous system is called<br />
psychic trauma in both animals and humans. A conflict has been instilled<br />
between the positive image of the owner (happy Dr. Jekyll) and the negative<br />
(Mr. Homecoming Hyde). This creates frustration and anxiety about<br />
homecomings, growing in severity if the scenario is repeated a few times.<br />
(It is interesting that in many cases, owners tell us that the pup was fine<br />
for a day or so after the first punishment. This may equate to the human<br />
experience of repression, in which memory of the traumatic experience is<br />
suppressed, creating a sort of &#8216;backwards amnesia.&#8217;) Even when this occurs,<br />
since the punishment was not associated with the act of chewing up<br />
something, the puppy seeks out another article, perhaps a shoe, and the<br />
cycle is repeated until the total relationship between owner and dog is<br />
tainted with emotional ambivalence. Mixed feelings are eating away at the<br />
positive qualities of their relationship. Negative emotional impressions may<br />
start to dominate it.<br />
At about this stage, many owners conclude that the punishment may not have<br />
been severe enough. That&#8217;s why the correction was not permanent. So they<br />
intensify it. The relationship erodes further as weeks go by. Enough of this<br />
cascading negative effect and the owner is ready to take drastic action. The<br />
dog, now hyper-sensitive to its owner&#8217;s mood change, feels something is<br />
wrong. This often is reflected by new problems, such as submissive wetting<br />
when the owner comes home or approaches the dog at other times; off-schedule<br />
bowel movements or urination occur, etc.<br />
Many pets act insecure, currying more favor when the owner is home, and<br />
hence, missing the owner even more acutely when left alone. Frustration and<br />
anxiety build, while the isolation-related, tension-relieving behavior<br />
mounts. The unwitting owner, who originally may have thought the dog is<br />
&#8216;getting even&#8217; for being left alone, begins to consider it incorrigible.</p>
<p>HELP!</p>
<p>This is when outside help is often sought. A book is purchased. The<br />
veterinarian, breeder, pet shop, a trainer or behaviorist may be consulted.<br />
If lucky, the owner gets advice that brings genuine insight into pet/owner<br />
relationships and dog behavior. But, more likely, they find traditional<br />
quick fixes and the dog winds up in a desensitization program; gets dosed<br />
with anxiety relieving drugs or barbiturates; is stuck in a cramped crate or<br />
cage all day, or banned to the yard or garage, or has its mouth stuffed with<br />
chewed debris and taped shut for hours. Since none of these approaches deal<br />
with the causes, the &#8216;thinking dog&#8217; and the total relationship with its<br />
owners and the environment, success is rare. The majority of these formerly<br />
precious pets find themselves rejected &#8230; relegated to the local pound for<br />
five to seven days, where the odds are 3-to-2 they&#8217;ll suffer society&#8217;s<br />
&#8216;ultimate solution&#8217;. But things don&#8217;t have to be so grim, if the owners<br />
learn some &#8216;dog think.&#8217;</p>
<p>Applying Positive Imagery To Solve &#8216;Separation Anxiety&#8217;</p>
<p>Dogs that misbehave when they are left alone are said to be suffering from<br />
separation anxiety. The term is a neat buzz-phrase; almost everybody uses<br />
it. It sounds professional. The trouble is, as a transplant from human<br />
psychiatry, it really doesn&#8217;t convey much useful information. However, the term is here, so we&#8217;ll<br />
use it in its broadest sense, which is; &#8220;a troubled feeling when left alone<br />
or apart from a certain person or persons.&#8221; This allows us to recommend a<br />
remedial behavioral program that deals with the realities of the dog&#8217;s total<br />
relationships. First, however, we must be sure that the dog&#8217;s veterinarian<br />
has ruled out the many physical/medical causes for anxiety, such as<br />
thyrotoxicosis, hyperthyroidism, pre-diabetes, encephalitis, allergies,<br />
hyperkinesis, etc. etc.</p>
<p>The Program</p>
<p>Dogs that are unduly upset when left alone usually enjoy their owner&#8217;s<br />
attention and petting whenever they ask for (or demand it) when the people<br />
are at home. To apply the imagery concept to this relationship, we could say<br />
the dog &#8217;sees itself&#8217; as directing, or leading the owner. When it wants some<br />
petting, it nudges or otherwise stimulates the owner, and the owner<br />
complies. The dog wants out, whines at the door or at the owner, and the<br />
door gets opened. Mealtime approaches, dog whines and prances, and dinner<br />
gets served. When the owner goes from room to room, the dog is either ahead,<br />
leading them, or close behind. This is the reality of their relationship, at<br />
least in the dog&#8217;s mind. But, when the owner leaves, against the dog&#8217;s<br />
wishes, the pet is predictably upset, and problem behavior occurs. This can<br />
involve barking, chewing, pacing, self-mutilation, off-schedule bowel<br />
movements, urination around the house, etc.<br />
<strong>The leadership problem can be turned about by presenting a different<br />
reality to the dog; one in which the dog is pleasantly, but firmly and<br />
consistently told to perform some simple act, such as &#8217;sit&#8217; whenever it<br />
attempts to gain attention or affection, or whenever the owner wants to give<br />
the dog some attention. All &#8217;sits&#8217;, or whatever command is used (&#8216;down&#8217; is a<br />
good one for highly bossy dogs) are praised happily as<br />
3 to 5 seconds of petting is awarded; then the dog is cheerfully released<br />
with an &#8220;OK&#8221; or &#8220;Free.&#8221; (Free is a good release because OK is too common a<br />
word.)</strong></p>
<p><strong><br />
If a really bossy dog refuses to obey, and many do when they realize their<br />
relationship is being turned around, simply ignore the situation, turn away<br />
and go on about some other activity, ignoring the dog. Some dogs have<br />
refused to respond for as long as four days before coming to terms with a<br />
follower relationship. However long it takes, after a few days the dog&#8217;s<br />
image of itself seems to evolve from one of giving direction to taking it<br />
with compliance prior to being petted, getting dinner, going out the door,<br />
getting on the couch, etc.</strong></p>
<p><strong><br />
In moving around the house, whenever the dog forges ahead, simply<br />
about-turn and go the other way. This must be repeated until the dog walks<br />
patiently behind or, better yet, doesn&#8217;t even follow. It is also helpful, but<br />
not vital, to practice down-stays of increasing length during several<br />
evenings a week. </strong></p>
<p>Images of Hyper-Emotionality</p>
<p>Most &#8216;home alone&#8217; problem dogs get extremely emotional when their owners<br />
get home; some even get excitable when regular departure times approach. To<br />
supplant these emotionally over-stimulating images, sit quietly for about<br />
five minutes before leaving, in the area where the dog will be left. No eye<br />
contact or speaking is allowed. Then, get up and go without looking at or<br />
speaking to the pet.<br />
At homecoming, enter quietly and ignore the dog until it quiets down<br />
completely. Then it is greeted happily, but briefly, away from the door of<br />
arrival. This subdued routine soon replaces the dog&#8217;s highly emotional<br />
mental images of returns and departures with calmness and serenity.<br />
Here&#8217;s the tough part for most all dog owners: When coming home the place<br />
is a mess! Pillows have been chewed, or the chair is tattered again, or a<br />
pile of poop graces the doorway, or some other problem is evident. If we<br />
keep in mind that the dog has in the past suffered from conflicting images<br />
at homecoming, it is imperative that no emotion, or even attention, should be<br />
directed at the remnants of the problem; such as chewed up magazines, shoes,<br />
defecation, etc. Instead, after five minutes of ignoring the dog, it should<br />
be greeted away from the scene of the misbehavior, and then pleasantly taken<br />
outdoors or to another room and left alone while the mess is cleaned up.<br />
This avoids creating new (or reinforcing old) conflicting images of<br />
emotional  reactions to, or interactions with, the debris, defecation, etc.<br />
I have always called this &#8216;the secret clean-up&#8217;. It has worked wonders as<br />
part of programs ranging from digging in the yard to housetraining puppies.<br />
Just why it is such an effective adjunct to correction programs remains to<br />
be satisfactorily explained. In the meantime, we&#8217;ll have to say that the<br />
lack of an image of the owner and the mess is more beneficial to correction<br />
than is the image.</p>
<p>The Big Picture</p>
<p>So, there it is. Dogs think in images and we can mold and change their<br />
behavior in hundreds of ways if we will think as they do. For instance, on<br />
the negative side, a set up whereby a car screeches to a stop, horn blaring,<br />
just as a dog starts toward the street from the sidewalk, then praising its<br />
retreat, is a valuable exercise in negative imagery. However, it must be<br />
repeated until the dog avoids the street when cars are not present, as well.<br />
Teaching the &#8216;panic&#8217; command to come needs the dog&#8217;s name followed by a<br />
code word, a sound image that is exclusive to coming when it is absolutely<br />
necessary, and praise words or a vocal rhythm that is unique to that<br />
command, coupled with fast hand-clapping while taking a crouched position.<br />
These combined, positive images can create a dog that will dependably<br />
respond to your code word and come to your praise. It is especially<br />
important to teach this command when the dog is out of sight, as well as in<br />
darkness. OK, you say, why bother to crouch to clap and praise in the dark,<br />
or when the dog can&#8217;t see you? The answer to that lies in the dog&#8217;s<br />
exquisite, finely tuned and interrelated aural/visual senses, as well as<br />
just how intelligent our dogs are.  But that&#8217;s another story for another issue.<br />
In the meantime, keep positive images of yourself and the future and you<br />
will convey confidence and cheer to your dog and all whom you meet.</p>
<p><em>The above article was first published by DOGWORLD Magazine. It is presented<br />
here to convey the concepts behind Campbell&#8217;s humane, non-punishment systems<br />
for correcting problem behavior in pet animals. Please feel free to copy the<br />
article and use it as a means of spreading the word for a more enlightened<br />
approach to pet animal ownership. If you use it in a club publication,<br />
newspaper or magazine, etc., please mention it also appears in &#8220;Behavior<br />
Problems in Dogs,&#8221; 3rd. ed. (1999) and in the New &#8220;Better Behavior in Dogs,&#8221;<br />
1999, A Guide to solving all your dog problems, (Direct Books &#8211; (800)<br />
776-2665).</em></p>
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