Great idea..

http://www.findtoto.com/.. calls all your neighbors

http://thecenterforlostpets.com/

http://www.fidofinder.com/

re-print: Benedict Canyon Newsletter
by Jan Marlyn Reesman
The canyon is filled with “LOST PET” signs. We all know many of these missing small dogs and cats may never show up again. The fate of “the canyon”. However you should not stop searching. Cats have been found weeks after they go missing. Since the conception of the micro-chip, dogs have been returned home long after their replacement has arrived.
When a pet goes missing it is vital to act fast and to never stop the search. Grab a powerful flashlight even during daylight hours, we learned this from watching “CSI”. Search dark spaces. A frightened or injured cat will hide in dark spaces and will not come to you when called. An injured dog may also.

Immediately search your property thoroughly. Small dogs and cats can get into some incredibly strange places. Look in EVERY nook and cranny. Don’t assume that your pet would never crawl into a tiny space. Especially cats.. felines are a curious group. Look behind, under, and inside washing machines, clothes dryers, stoves, refrigerators, dishwashers, bookcases, behind water heaters, under furniture, under beds, in closets, in cabinets, in drain pipes, in sewer drains, in culvert pipes, under vehicles, under the hood of your car, in crawl spaces under the house, inside sheds and barns, etc. In the case of cats, also look in attic crawl spaces, on the roof, in roof gutters, and up in the trees.

Make some noise while you walk around the neighborhood! Animals can hear you from great distances. If your pet has a favorite “squeaky toy” bring it along and use it to help you make familiar noises. It’s also important to stop regularly, be quiet, and listen for your pet to make a noise in reply. Especially at dawn and dusk.

Place strong-scented articles outside your home to attract your pet. Leaving the pets bed, a piece of your clothes or personal blanket. They will help to give the pet an anchor to stay near or on if he or she is lost when you are away from home or if you have to leave the last area where you saw your pet.

Put flyers everywhere. It is extremely important to post MANY flyers within at least a 1-mile radius of where it was lost. DO NOT PUT YOUR NAME OR ADDRESS ON YOUR FLYER! List the date and place your pet was lost, breed of dog or cat, sex, age, weight, color, markings, and your telephone number. Offer a reward, but don’t state the amount. It is very important to always withhold several identifying marks and characteristics of your lost pet. Beware of the scammer. Post the flyers at waist level on telephone poles and at eye level in such places as veterinary offices, pet shops, beauty shops, grocery stores, community bulletin boards, churches, pizza parlors, convenience stores, near schools, and on school bulletin boards, on windshields, in mailboxes, fire stations, Starbucks, food trucks and construction worksites. Examine your posted flyers frequently and replace the ones that are missing or damaged.

Walk the neighborhood and talk to everybody. Go to each house in the area where your pet was lost and talk to the residents; give them your flyer. If no one is home, leave the flyer attached to his or her door, don’t forget to bring tape. Talk to everybody you run across ie, neighborhood children and parents waiting at the school bus stop.
This also includes the paperboys, school crossing guards, neighborhood crime watch groups, garbage pick-up crews, postal workers, sanitation workers, construction workers, etc. Give them your flyer.
Place an ad in your local newspaper. Some will do this for free. Be sure to advertise in the Sunday edition as well as during the week. Also place an ad in any “Penny Saver” type of publications. Check the newspaper “found” ads every day. Also check online “Lost and Found”. Most newspapers provide free ads to people who have found lost pets.

Call local veterinarian offices during the day. After 5 PM, call veterinarian emergency clinics. If an office has taken in or treated any animal that even remotely resembles your pet, VISIT THE OFFICE IN PERSON. Your description of your pet and their description of the same pet rarely match. YOU MUST GO SEE FOR YOURSELF!

Get phone numbers of local rescue organizations. The free Pet Press (at the library and pets stores) has current lists. Call each of the rescue organizations and ask for their help and find out if they have your pet. These groups generally network with each other and will pass the word about your case. VISIT your local Animal Control, humane societies, and animal shelters, including the ones in surrounding areas. You must actually visit the animal control and humane shelters every day or two. It works well if several family members can take turns visiting the shelters. Be sure to check all areas of the shelter, including the infirmary. Also be aware that dogs may be housed in the cat section and vice-versa.

Leave a picture of your pet and your phone number at each shelter, befriend them. Find out the holding period of each animal control and humane shelter. Be aware of how much time you have to claim your pet before it is euthanized!

Check shelters out of your area in person and online. A Good Samaritan may have taken your pet in only to have it escape a week or more later.

Don’t ever give up! Pets have been known to find their way back home after being lost for several months.

PREVENTION: Get your pet Micro-chipped, keep tags current.

Keep pet tags current and check that they are still in place and legible. A good idea is to write your phone number directly onto the collar. I do not remove my dog’s collar even when she is being bathed. I have heard the excuse that the lost pet was not wearing a collar and id because they were just bathed.

Your tag should have more then one phone number, your home number, cell, your vet etc.. I keep two collars and tags on my dogs as well as a microchip.

Get an “Acme Dog Whistle”. Blow the whistle whenever you feed or give treats to your pet. Leave the whistle next to the treats so that you will remember to use it, this really works. The high-pitched sound from these whistles can carry up to a mile or more. Cats are attracted to this sound as well as dogs. (It is also a great way to teach a pet the “come command”.)

Keep fence gates closed securely. Self closing gates area good idea. Always transport a cat in a carrier. Never take your cat to the Vet or anywhere else unless it is secured. A hand carried cat can bolt and hide if frightened by loud noises. When a cat is frightened in strange surroundings, especially with traffic noise around, it will hide and will not come to you.

If you have a dog who is an escape artist, try leaving a piece of broken leash hanging front their collar so that it will appear that the dog broken lose as opposed to being out for a walk.

NEVER, NEVER leave a choke collar on a dog when it is not attached to a leash. It will eventually become a HANGMAN’S NOOSE!

Have current photos of your pet.

A pillowcase is a quick way to transport cats or injured small animal.
As a final point, spay or neuter your pets! Both males and females will be much less likely to wander if “fixed.”
One of many online resources: http://www.laanimalservices.com/LostServices.htm

Jan Marlyn Reesman was a licensed heath technician and animal behaviorist. Partial name-dropping client list: Whoopi Golberg, Calvin Klein, Billy Crystal, James Caan, Dyane Cannon, Barry Diller, Sandy Gallin, Gabe Kaplan, Frank Wells, Barbara Benedek, Frank Mariani, Richard Dreyfuss, Hal Linden, Jack Warner Estate dogs and John Ritter.

You may have noticed that Jordan, The gorgeous Doberman who’s photo is on my blog, is wearing not just one tag, but THREE.. She also has a micro chip and is never out of our site..

I know of too many stories about dogs that are lost from the groomer, the vet, during a thunderstorm, in a car accident, from the airline… These heart breaking stories have made us overly protective.

A friend found a dog last month with a chip that had a non working number as well as an old ID TAG.. This old Sheltie had lived with someone for over a dozen years.

How excited was I to learn about pet finder tags. Now Jordan has a forth tag on a second collar.. this tag is light, tough and will call 3 numbers if Jordan is “misplaced”.. My cell, my son’s phone and the number of our vet…

I also got one for my Mac Book and for my camera … you get two in a package..

CLICK THEIR LINK. Let me know what you think.. $19.99 for TWO!

A forever tag.. Number can be changed instantly..

Jan

How to Crate Train your DogYour dog’s attitude to their crate depends on how you train them to use it. It’s unlikely that they will be nervous about their crate when they see it for the first time.You must take the time to show them that being inside their crate isn’t a punishment, it isn’t a scary place, and they can relax and feel safe when they are inside.
When it comes to crate training, it doesn’t matter how old your dog is. The same methods are used whether they are 6 weeks old, 6 months old or even 6 years old. Remember that your dog is an individual, and not all dogs learn at the same rate.
The first step in crate training your dog is to put the crate in your living room with the door open, and let them have a good look at it. They will smell it, and may even walk inside. Get a handful of your dog’s favorite treats, those special ones that are kept just for training sessions. Diced chicken is popular with most dogs. Use the treat to lure your dog into the crate, and even if they only put one foot inside at first, give them the reward. That’s a good start.  If you’re concerned about a crate taking up a ton of space in your living room, you may want to get wood dog crate.  These dog crates serve as an end table in your living room and eliminate the need for a bulky crate that takes up extra space.

Spend five minutes on this process, and repeat it several times a day. Make sure you never rush your dog, and always finish your training session on a happy note.
When your dog is quite happy to stroll into their crate for the reward, you can then throw a snack into the rear of the crate. It should land far enough back so that they have to walk right inside to get it. This is teaching them that good things happen inside the crate. They will probably come right out of the crate after eating their snack; that’s quite okay.
At this point, start giving him his meals in the crate, again with the door open, and this will also encourage a positive association with it.
It’s time to start closing the door. In the early stages, throw a treat into the crate, and when your dog is inside, shut the door for just a second or two, then open it up and give them another reward. Repeat this process again and again, so they learn that there’s no need to worry if the door is shut.
Over time, slowly increase the duration your dog spends in the crate with the door closed. Give them toys such as a stuffed Kong to keep them amused while they are inside. Because all of their interactions with their crate have been pleasant and have involved a delicious treat, they are unlikely to be bothered by being locked inside.
This is a long slow process, and the time it takes varies from dog to dog. It is very worthwhile taking as long as your dog needs, because there are many advantages to having a dog that settles in a crate. Vacations, travel and even forcing them to rest after an operation are always much easier with a crate.

Are You Sure Your Pet Bird Gets All the Nutrients He Needs?

Jan’s 23 year old Huey and Seattle

Tips for a Pet-Safe Holiday Season Easy Tips for a Pet-Safe Holiday Season
There’s nothing more scrumptious than gathering with friends and family for the holidays, but many of the ingredients in human fun can result in distress for pets. As we kick off this season of lights, parties and yummy treats, the ASPCA wants to remind pet parents of the potential hazards certain goodies and décor can pose to our furry friends.

“As you prepare for your holiday celebrations,” says Dr. Steven Hansen, Senior Vice President of ASPCA Animal Health Services, “remember to be wary of foods and traditions that can bring potential dangers to companion animals.”

In honor of the joyous season to come, ASPCA poison control experts offer these essential tips for having pets at the party in a safe way:

Avoid Too Much of a Good Thing
While the holidays are a time for giving, there are some foods you should not share with your furry friends. A taste of mashed potato or a lick of pumpkin pie shouldn’t pose a problem. However, alcoholic beverages, coffee, onions, fatty foods, yeast dough and macadamia nuts can all lead to stomach upset, diarrhea or even worse—an inflammatory condition of the pancreas known as pancreatitis. A special no-no is chocolate, which if ingested can lead to death. And you may want to skip sharing the turkey—poultry bones can splinter and cause blockages.

Put the Meds Away
One of the most common holiday-related emergencies is the consumption of human pharmaceuticals. Make sure all your medications are securely locked away, and be sure to tell your guests to keep their meds zipped up and packed away, too.

That Holiday Glow
When you leave the room, put the candles out! Animals can easily knock lit candles over, causing a fire, and curious cats are particularly at risk of getting burned by candle flames. Also, be sure to use appropriate candle holders, placed on stable surfaces.

Decorations Can Be Dangerous
Holiday decorations such as breakable ornaments, string, ribbon and dreidels should be kept out of paws’ reach. These traditional decorations can cause choking or severe intestinal problems if swallowed. All holiday light strands, loose wires and electric cords can also pose serious dangers to your pet, especially puppies, who may chew on them.

Go Tinsel-less
Kitties love this sparkly, light-catching “toy” that’s easy to bat around and carry in their mouths. But a nibble can lead to a swallow, which can lead to an obstructed digestive tract, severe vomiting, dehydration and possible surgery. It’s best to brighten your boughs with something other than tinsel.

Forgo the Flowers
Be careful with holiday floral arrangements. Lilies are commonly used this time of year and all varieties, including Tiger, Asian, Japanese Show, Stargazer and Casa Blanca can cause kidney failure in cats. In addition, common Yuletide plants such as mistletoe and holly berries can be potentially toxic to pets. Holly, when ingested, can cause pets to suffer nausea, vomiting and diarrhea. Mistletoe can cause gastrointestinal upset and cardiovascular problems. Safe alternatives include artificial flowers made from silk or plastic.

Oh, Christmas Tree
Cats often see trees as fabulous climbing posts. Be sure to securely anchor your tree so it doesn’t tip and fall, causing possible injury to your pet. Also keep in mind that tree water may contain fertilizers that can cause stomach upset if ingested. Stagnant tree water can also act as a breeding ground for bacteria, and, if ingested, a pet may suffer nausea, vomiting and diarrhea.

New Year’s Noise
As you count down to the New Year, be alert to any pet hazards such as noise-makers and confetti. Noise-makers can frighten your pets, causing them to bolt out an open door or window. Confetti, if ingested, can wreak havoc on the digestive tract.

Holiday Travel
Before traveling with your pets by car or plane, make sure they have all the required vaccinations and are wearing identification tags or are microchipped. If you’re traveling by car, be sure to secure your pet safely with a seatbelt harness, crate or barrier and make frequent stops, allowing pets time to exercise and relieve themselves.

If your dog or cat accidentally ingests any potentially harmful products and you need emergency advice, please consult your veterinarian or the ASPCA’s Animal Poison Control Center at (888) 426-4435 (a fee applies) or www.aspca.org/apcc.

“Walkin’ The Dog”   310 739-7334 (Jan)

This is the BIG thing on the West Coast (and The East Coast)…  Many dog walkers now earn as much or more then many of their clients..   The secret that every dog owner should know is:  having your dog walked professionally 4-5 times a week also TRAINS your dog… Dog walkers must have well a well mannered dogs or they will be “thrown out” of the local dog parks..

THE BASIC RATE usually:
30 minute dog walks are $20 dollars for regular clients.

Additional charge for non-regulars..

This is usually a private walk , one-on-one, in your neighborhood.

“The Hollywood Bitch” is highly recommended..  email: ragsolden@mac.com

some of her clients have been..

James Caan, Sandy Gallin, Dyan Cannon, John Ritter, Warner Estate, Barry Diller, Richard Dryfus, Rae Dawn Chong, Calvin Klein, Hal Lindin, Whoppi Goldberg……

___________________________________________________________________________________

Private In Home Puppy Lessons

Private lessons are the most comprehensive way for you and your dog or puppy to learn since it is a customized program dealing with your choice of topics and issues – with a input from us regarding things we know are important.

The private lessons are six hours of training in five lessons. The first lesson is two hours and the remaining four lessons are an hour each. The fee is $200 for the first 2 hour lessons and if you agree to move forward, the fee is $150 for each additional 5 lessons. Includes phone consultations.

What are some advantages to private lessons?

• You and your dog are comfortable learning in your home.
• We assess what your current situation is, find out what you want to do, formulate a plan to help you reach your goal, and then work with you to get you there.
• You have our undivided attention for the entire lesson, which means that both you and your dog should progress fairly quickly.
• Lessons are scheduled to our mutual convenience, usually one to two weeks apart.
• We work on basic obedience training as well as solving some behavior problems. You receive detailed instructions both orally and in writing as well as strategies to solve specific behavior problems.
• You also receive telephone consultations between lessons as needed.

Basic Obedience and Manners Program includes these behaviors or commands, and we will gladly customize a program to meet your needs.

Basic training is on leash with the goal to be off leash as the puppy ages.

Number 1.. saftey! Using a dog whistle… IT WORKS!

• Come
• Down and Down-stay
• Drop it
• Go to your place and lie down
• Greet people and dogs on leash
• Leave it
• Off
• Sit and Sit-stay
• Staying at a distance
• Staying with distractions
• Stand
• Take it
• Wait at curbs, gates, and doors
• Walking beside you on leash (Heeling)
• Watch me (Getting your dog’s attention)

ALSO DOG WALKING:

Licensed Vet Tech and animal behaviorist.
Most of my clients are high profile entertainment dogs. As dogs are walked they are also being trained to behave on a leash, ride in a car, stay out of the street and become generally well manned. They also learn to safely interact with other dogs. All sizes, breeds and behavior welcome. I have never met a dog that I could not handle. $20 per hour when walked 4-5 times weekly.

I am in the Beverly Hills and Mulholland Drive area. Most of my clients are in BH /Bel Air. I am located at Beverly Glen near Mulholland. 310 739-7334  or package88@gmail.com

July 9, 2009 —

There’s a new airline that has no security lines, no middle seats and flight attendants who even take customers for a walk before they fly. The only catch? You’ve got to be a dog or a cat — no humans allowed.

Pet Airlines will get the fur flying next week when it begins service as the country’s first pet-only airline.

The airline’s launch is the culmination of an idea from pet owner Alissa Binder and her husband, Dan Wiesel, after they took their aging Jack Russell, Jack, on a cross-country flight. Like other pets, Jack had to fly in the cargo bay.

“We were totally stressed out,” Wiesel said. “We didn’t know if she was on the flight, didn’t know how she was doing.”

To avoid that stress in the future, the couple leased a plane, hired veterinary technicians to monitor the animals in flight and started advertising their new airline. Starting at $149, pet owners can send their furry friends on flights that provide a preboarding walk and bathroom break.

Pet Airways will initially fetch animals from five cities — New York, Baltimore, Chicago, Denver and Los Angeles.

The planes have no seats and no overhead compartments, and are all designed for creature comfort.

“Our priority is the pets,” Binder said. “It’s about the pets.”

While Pet Airways may be the newest dog on the block, they face competition with major carriers such as Continental, which moves an average of 500 pets every day.

“We’ve got dedicated personnel, constant monitoring 24 hours a day, tracking all animals,” Continental employee Lisa Schoppa said.

Furry Frequent-Flier Miles

Even famous dogs take to the cargo bay when they fly.

Westminster Dog Show champion spaniel Stump has racked up half a million Continental frequent flier miles so far.

Pet Airways plans to offer a similar program. But for now it’ll be busy enough. The airline is booked solid for the next two months as pet owners like Amanda Hickey latch on to the idea of fine flying for her pets.

“I would be a wreck if I had to wait in baggage claim for them to come out at the end,” Hickey said.

Copyright © 2009 ABC News Internet Ventures

My theory: Dogs that are a few months old on their first 4th do better with BANGS!

With the Fourth of July approaching, it’s time once again for a few reminders, most of which we all already know, but, as they say, better safe than sorry.

First off, make sure your dog is wearing identification tags — even if you’re both planning a quiet evening at home.

Even animals not inclined to roam may uncharacteristically do so amid the bangs and booms. Animal shelters across the country are accustomed to receiving a surge of “Independence Day” dogs — so make sure yours is carrying the information needed to get him or her back to you.

Do not leave your pet in the car — on the 4th or any other summer day. Even partially opened windows don’t always provide sufficient air, and a dog can become sick or even die within minutes.

Some additional Fourth of July tips from the American Kennel Club:

1. It is safer to keep your pets at home and inside during Forth of July celebrations instead of bringing him to your neighbor’s party, fireworks demonstrations.

2. Keep your dog inside, rather than in your yard. He will be a lot happier indoors, and not tempted to leap over a fence to find you.

3. Dogs can be startled by the loud noise of fireworks. Once the festivities begin, keep your pet in a safe room where he can feel comfortable. If he is crate trained put him in his crate covered with a blanket to make him feel secure.

4. Block outside sights and sounds by lowering the blinds and turning on the television or playing music.

5. If your pet seems overly anxious, spend some time with your pet, speaking soothingly to help them to relax.

6. Avoid scraps from the grill. While tempting to our pets, any sudden change to your pets’ diet can cause stomach upset. In addition, some certain foods like onions, avocado, grapes and raisins can be toxic.

7. Human products can be dangerous to animals. Avoid spraying your pet with insect repellent and only use special sunscreen that is intended for animal use.

8. Keep your pets away from matches and lighter fluid. They can be extremely irritating to the stomach, lungs and central nervous system, if ingested.

Read this before you need it!

HOW TO GIVE YOU DOG CPR

Cardio-Pulmonary Resuscitation, or CPR, as it is called, is a version of artificial respiration that includes assisting the HEART to BEAT. The purpose of CPR is to keep oxygen moving to the lungs and blood circulating throughout the body. The directions contained here APPLY TO DOGS. While these instructions may be good in an emergency, it is wise to check with your VET to establish the procedure that is best for your DOG.

If your DOG is NOT breathing use a finger to clear any mucus or other objects from the mouth. TILT the head back to straighten the airway passage.

Hold the mouth shut with one hand, and place your mouth over the DOG’S nose and mouth making sure the seal is tight.

Blow into the nose while watching to see if the chest expands.

If the chest DOES NOT EXPAND start over again by clearing the mouth. If the chest DOES EXPAND release your DOG’S mouth so it can exhale.

Repeat the breathing procedure once every five (5) seconds until your DOG is breathing normally, or until your Vet or other Emergency technician is available to begin treatment.

PUT your DOG on its right side. PUT the heel of your hand on the ribcage just behind the elbow. PUT your other hand on top of the first hand.

Firmly press on the ribcage in quick, smooth movements. Depending on the size of your DOG press down 3-4 inches using both hands. The compression should last no longer than 1/2 second. The smaller the DOG the fewer inches of compression and less force are needed. At all times try not to damage the ribcage.

Repeat this procedure a total of 10 times.

Then, if your DOG is not breathing, perform CPR as described above.

Alternate between the chest compressions (10 in a row), and one breath into the DOG’S nose.

The information in the article below is very useful… BUT, the reason for this blog is to save a dog’s live.  NEVER, NEVER, EVER leave a choke chain on a dog. It should NEVER be used a permanent collar with dogs I.D.

If the dog  jumps over fence and the loop is caught, it becomes a hangman’s noose.  If dogs are left alone and play together, a dog’s tooth can get caught in the loop and the dog with the choke collar will be strangles.

A dog left in the car while wearing a choker, could, and have, get caught on the gear shift, panic, and straggle to death.

I HAVE EXPERIENCED these situation when I worked as a vet tech. Images and phone calls that will remain in my brain forever.

I am a fan of training with a slip collar…semi chokers work and are safe.

a reprint below:

Proper Use Of The Slip Collar

The slip collar, commonly miscalled a choke collar, is available in various styles, most people will associate the chain slip collar as the primary training collar. Slip collars are available in all types of materials from chain, cord, elastic stretch (bungee cord), fabric, flat strap, and safeties.

“Choke Chains” are not intended to choke your dog! The intent is that when the collar is tugged it will pinch the brachial nerve in the dogs neck (much like pinching the funny bone) or according to some people it is intended to simulate how a mother will nip a puppy on the neck to correct it. The Slip Collar is NOT intended to choke your dog. If your dog is choking with the use of this collar then use a different collar!

Personally I don’t care for chain or cord slip collars. They are far to often considered as the only choice and used as the first or only training collar, when a different collar would be more appropriate, safer, and much easier to use. Chain slip collars should NOT be the first choice for a training collar. NEVER use a slip collar, chain or cord, on a dog under 6 months old. NEVER EVER.

If you are going to use a slip collar; be it chain, cord, leather, or strap, learn how to use it properly before you put it on your dog. Do some reading. Watch them in use. The first consideration is size. A collar that is too large will only detract from its primary effectiveness. Measure the size of your dogs neck high on the neck, not close to the shoulders. Then add an inch or two. That will be the size you want to buy. The proper fit should just slide over the dogs head without unduly pulling on the dogs ears.

Don’t buy large thinking “they’ll grow into it”. Instead buy 4 collars, one the correct size and another 2 inches larger and 2 other types of training collars in the proper size. Use the collar which gives you the level of correction you need. There is nothing that says you have to use one collar and one collar only during training. If a collar works during training for Sit/Stay but doesn’t work during training to Heel feel free to move to another collar. Switch back and forth. There is a benefit to this in that your dog will not become collar smart.

There is only two ways to put a slip collar on. You’d think people would get it right 50% of the time by chance, this doesn’t seem to be the case. The free end which connects to the lead should be over the dogs neck not come under. The position is important, over the neck the collar immediately releases pressure when slack is given. Under the neck this is not the case.

In use there should be no tension in the lead and approximately six inches of slack, the collar should be completely relaxed. Giving corrections with the slip collar should be short tugs. DON’T haul back like you’re setting a gaff in a fish. It is very easy to damage the dogs throat. DON’T let your dog run and hit the end of the lead. DON’T hold steady pressure on the lead constricting the dogs breathing. NEVER yank on the lead in anger. You can crush the dogs throat and kill them. Yes sad to say it does happen.

If the dog is hauling on the lead and choking. GET A DIFFERENT COLLAR.

The slip collar is a training collar only. It should be on your dog only when training and under your direct control. If your dog is running free and having a blast being off lead then it shouldn’t be wearing a slip collar. I have seen a dog, wearing a chain slip collar, run and jump through a brush pile. The free ring got caught in a branch effectively hanging the dog. In this instance the owner was close enough to see what had happed and immediately rescued the dog, this is not always the outcome.

Remove the slip collar as soon as you are done training. Slip collars should never be on dogs that are tied outside. The dog is not under your direct control when tied out. Remember it is easy for a dog to back out of a slip collar.

A slip collar, in all its various guises, is still just one of many training tools available to you. Don’t be afraid to try different ones. Half the fun of owning a dog is all the neat things you get to buy and try. Use the minimum tool to get the behaviour that you desire. Be realistic in what you are demanding from your dog as well.