How to Crate Train your DogYour dog’s attitude to their crate depends on how you train them to use it. It’s unlikely that they will be nervous about their crate when they see it for the first time.You must take the time to show them that being inside their crate isn’t a punishment, it isn’t a scary place, and they can relax and feel safe when they are inside.
When it comes to crate training, it doesn’t matter how old your dog is. The same methods are used whether they are 6 weeks old, 6 months old or even 6 years old. Remember that your dog is an individual, and not all dogs learn at the same rate.
The first step in crate training your dog is to put the crate in your living room with the door open, and let them have a good look at it. They will smell it, and may even walk inside. Get a handful of your dog’s favorite treats, those special ones that are kept just for training sessions. Diced chicken is popular with most dogs. Use the treat to lure your dog into the crate, and even if they only put one foot inside at first, give them the reward. That’s a good start.  If you’re concerned about a crate taking up a ton of space in your living room, you may want to get wood dog crate.  These dog crates serve as an end table in your living room and eliminate the need for a bulky crate that takes up extra space.

Spend five minutes on this process, and repeat it several times a day. Make sure you never rush your dog, and always finish your training session on a happy note.
When your dog is quite happy to stroll into their crate for the reward, you can then throw a snack into the rear of the crate. It should land far enough back so that they have to walk right inside to get it. This is teaching them that good things happen inside the crate. They will probably come right out of the crate after eating their snack; that’s quite okay.
At this point, start giving him his meals in the crate, again with the door open, and this will also encourage a positive association with it.
It’s time to start closing the door. In the early stages, throw a treat into the crate, and when your dog is inside, shut the door for just a second or two, then open it up and give them another reward. Repeat this process again and again, so they learn that there’s no need to worry if the door is shut.
Over time, slowly increase the duration your dog spends in the crate with the door closed. Give them toys such as a stuffed Kong to keep them amused while they are inside. Because all of their interactions with their crate have been pleasant and have involved a delicious treat, they are unlikely to be bothered by being locked inside.
This is a long slow process, and the time it takes varies from dog to dog. It is very worthwhile taking as long as your dog needs, because there are many advantages to having a dog that settles in a crate. Vacations, travel and even forcing them to rest after an operation are always much easier with a crate.

I love my cats because I love my home, and little by little they become its visible soul.’
~Jean Couteau

GIVE IT A FEW WEEKS.. they do come around.. keep cat in a small space like a bathroom so you will see them often and they can’t hide… of course there is always the adult cat that just takes over from day one.

good info below:
If you are adopting an adult cat, you should be aware that it will take time for him to feel secure in his new environment. Be patient as he will come around eventually and you can reap the rewards of having an adult cat, and you will have bypassed most of the training.

If you have acquired an adult cat, transport him home in a carrier, where he will be safe and secure. Do not be tempted to let him loose in the car. He will most likely be fearful and could scratch or bite you while he is trying to hide.

Once home, do not turn him loose in the house. Your primary concern in to ensure that he has a safe refuge away from people and other pets. Unlike a kitten, he will not cry for his siblings, but he will probably seek out a hiding place in his room.

Provide him with water and food dishes and a litter pan in his room. If he hides under a piece of furniture, place a cat bed or small blanket there for his comfort. He will not use a pillow or cat bed in the open until he feels secure.

Cats do not like changes. They especially dislike moving to a new house or being confronted with any new furniture in their old one. So your adult cat has a double burden to contend with because he has lost both his old home and his old furnishing.

There is no yardstick by which you can measure how long it will take for your cat to feel comfortable. Some will come around within a few days and others may take weeks or even months. Patience is the key to helping him adjust.

Avoid talking loudly and do not make sudden movements. Cats dislike noise and raised voices almost as much as they dislike a new house. Do not pick him up against his will and do not force him to come out of hiding. This will frighten him and he may not be able to trust you again.

As long as he is easting food, drinking water and using his litter pan, you have won half the battle. If he is too afraid to come to you, try sitting quietly on the floor and talking softly to him.

Are You Sure Your Pet Bird Gets All the Nutrients He Needs?

Jan’s 23 year old Huey and Seattle

Have you Seen This Lost Dog? She was lost 7/24/09 in Richmond Heights near Bellevue and I-64/40.

She may have been spotted later near Laclede Station Rd. and Hanley.. Name: Originally Lady, now Gidgee About 40 pounds Tri-colored Australian Shepherd.

No Tail Very sweet but frightened.

If you chase her, she might run. Microchipped and wearing tags: Call with any sightings.

Reward 314-726-2209 or 636-671-7223

SHAKE CAN

This is a wonderful NON physical & very effective CORRECTION tool. Take a cola can, put 10 pennies, bolts, screws, nails, etc.in the can. I really like metal on metal rather than stones or rocks. Put duct tape over the opening to prevent items from flying out.

When your dog engages in a behavior you wish to stop, SHAKE the can ONCE. This is once UP/DOWN. You do not shake, shake, shake the can. If you do, the dog will quickly desensitize to the startle/stop effect of the sudden, unpleasant sound.

When you use the shake can on an undesirable behavior, your dog will startle/stop the behavior & look around for the offending NOISE. Use this break in the behavior to give them the desired command & then praise. NO BARK, GOOD NO BARK…. NO CHEW, GOOD NO CHEW….NO DIG, GOOD NO DIG…etc.

Do not be surprised when your dog, almost immediately, “resumes” the behavior. Be prepared & repeat the shake can process. As with any behavior modification process, it will take numerous repetitions to successfully “modify” a particular behavior. This is NO DIFFERENT than it is with people. Therefore, you must be patient & above all….CONSISTENT!!! Every time you allow a dog to ENGAGE in a behavior you are trying to modify or stop…UNCORRECTED, you are allowing a “reinforcement” of that behavior. This will only ADD time, confusion, & frustration to the modification process. This is unpleasant for you & exceedingly UNFAIR to your dog. DON’T MAKE THINGS HARDER ON YOU OR YOUR DOG!!!!!

You can possibly speed up your behavior modification process by using an additional step. As soon as your dog ceases the offending behavior & they have gotten their NO____, GOOD NO____…..immediately, try to DIVERT their attention to another fun, pleasant stimulus. This could be getting them to play with a toy…with you. There is no better reward than getting to play with Mom or Dad.

Do not consider each “infraction” as backsliding. Instead, consider it one more OPPORTUNITY to correct/modify the behavior. Each of these OPPORTUNITIES, gets you closer, faster to ultimate SUCCESS!!! For pups & new older dogs, I make up several shake cans & strategically place them throughout my home & on the patio. In this way, I have access to the shake can correction WHEREVER/WHENEVER it occurs. I want to take advantage of EVERY opportunity to advance the behavior modification process.

The shake can is especially effective because the dogs do not associate the “correction” with you. Therefore, they do not have to “think” WHY? WHAT? Rather, they more quickly associate the correction with the actual BEHAVIOR. This means, they will more quickly understand that it is the BEHAVIOR that is causing the correction. The allows the behavior to become “self-correcting”, which is the most effective correction.

or said in a different way:

The “no bark” exercise
First, select a silencing command: it can be “Quiet” or “No bark!” or any word you prefer, as long as you use it consistently.

Prepare a few shake cans and place them around the house. A shake can is a can (an empty soda can is perfect) into which you have sealed some pennies or pebbles. When you shake the can, the hard objects hit the side, making a startling noise that serve to interrupt the dog’s inappropriate behavior.

When your dog or puppy starts to bark, give your silencing command and then shake the can until the barking stops. The noise should startle your dog into silence, at which point, you should praise him lavishly. Repeat the procedure as many times as necessary until he doesn’t start barking again.

(be sure that the can is clean, sugar will make the pennies stick together)

We adopted “Jackie Brown”, a 3 year old “ROTTERMAN” (Dobe/Rottie mix) a month ago. She only wanted to relieve herself on grass. We need her to use the paving stones so not to ruin the lawn. My neighbor said that “you can’t teach old dogs new tricks”! I took that as a challenge.

Treating “Jackie Brown” as if she were a new puppy in our home, we had success in one week.

I do want to mention that changing a dogs personality traits is not usually possible. But the behavior, such as, aggression or  submission can be altered and controlled.

A good article I found below:

We’ve all heard the old adage, “You can’t teach an old dog new tricks.” But is it true? Any pet can be trained — at any age. You need the right training, the right information and the right tools. The number one reason pets end up in shelters is because of behavior problems, so good training is important for the relationship between you and your pet.

Many experts, including the accredited instructors at PETsMART, believe that using positive reinforcement techniques will give you and your dog the best results. Training should be fun and positive, for both dog and owner, and the focus should be on rewarding good behavior, not punishing unwanted behavior. It’s important to understand that every time you interact with your dog, you’re training him whether you know it or not. Sometimes it only takes simple adjustments in the way you interact with your dog to make big changes in your relationship with your furry friend.

Knowing what not to do is also important. Training is supposed to be fun, so if you begin to feel frustrated or angry, discontinue the training session.

“Owners should not have unreasonable expectations for their relationship with their dog,” says Vicki Smith, director of pet training for PETsMART, Inc. “For example, people send their children to school for 12 years of formal education to get ‘the basics,’ but think that investing 12 weeks to train their dog is unreasonable. All good relationships require a bit of work.”

Classes taught by knowledgeable pet trainers and behaviorists at PETsMART help pet owners understand dog behavior. From these experts, you will receive good information on how to communicate with your dog. Your dog will learn basic behaviors such as “sit” or “down,” but you will also receive a basic understanding of how that learning took place. This way, you can teach your dog something new without professional help. But remember that a one-hour class each week will not be enough unless you follow up at home. You should leave class each week confident about how to practice the lessons at home.

Group training classes can also teach your dog some important social skills. Because they are “social pack” animals, dogs who are not properly socialized sometimes respond with fear, excessive exuberance or even aggression when they eventually do interact with other dogs. Un-socialized dogs may respond to people the same way. With the growing popularity of activities that can include dogs, such as dog parks, shopping with your dog, dog birthday parties and weddings, having a dog that responds appropriately in the company of other dogs makes time with your pet more enjoyable.

Pets can add a tremendous amount of love and joy to your life. By taking the time to train your dog properly, you give him the chance to become your best friend instead of a burden. This leaves less time for punishing your pet and more time playing with them.

Raising kittens

BOOK on Amazon or Public Library

2 weeks old kittens

Warmth first:
Kittens depend on their mother to keep them warm because they can’t maintain their own body temperature.
Chilling is the greatest single threat to a neonatal kitten’s survival. If the kitten is cold to the touch hypothermia has already set in. This means your kitten’s body temperature is dangerously low and her condition is critical!

Use your body first. Your own body provides the best immediate insulation. (Do not put kittens that display defensive behavior next to your skin- have a layer of clothes between you and the kitten).

Massage in the warmth. Gently massage the kitten’s body to stimulate circulation.

Wrap a towel around a hot water bottle or bottles of warm water- place it close to the kitten.

Never feed a chilled kitten any type of milk replacement formula or anything else. This can prove fatal! To stabilize a kitten as you warm him, try rubbing .01 cc (a thin layer on your finger tip) of light corn syrup, or a solution of equal parts sugar and water on his gums.

Place the kitten/kittens in a quiet place in a clean draft free area – the area should be large enough for the kittens to move around freely.

It is best to use a heating pad made for specially for pets, but if you must use a regular heating pad, set it on the lowest temperature, be sure to cover the heating pad well with a towel making sure the kitten cannot crawl under it and come into direct contact with the pad. The kittens must be able to move away from the heat, so be sure it covers only part of their bed. Check the kittens frequently.

During the first week of life the kitten area should be kept at 86 – 90 degrees and lowered five degrees a week until 75 degrees is reached. Use a thermometer to check the temperature of heating pad.

Keep it clean:

You’ll want to keep the kitten’s environment as clean as possible. Unweaned kittens can generate amazing messes in a short time by relieving themselves in their bed. Do not use strong disinfectants or detergents. Wash with 1 part bleach to 32 part water. Be sure to keep the kittens area dry.

Dehydration:
Kittens can easily become dehydrated due to lack of mother’s milk, hypothermia, or prolonged vomiting or diarrhea. To detect whether a kitten is dehydrated gently pick up a fold of skin along the kitten’s back (the scruff). The skin should quickly pop back into place. If the skin stays put dehydration has occurred.
A dehydrated kitten requires quick help. An electrolyte solution made for human babies and sold at most grocery stores is a good first line of defense for mildly dehydrated kittens. You can give your kitten 1cc of the electrolyte solution (slightly warmed and tested on your wrist) 3 times a day to help maintain electrolyte balance.
Severe dehydration is a veterinary emergency. Signs include sunken eyes, lack of skin elasticity determined by the skin fold test described above, dry mouth, exhaustion or lethargy.

Record:
Chart the kitten’s initial weight, taking notes on kitten’s general appearance, and accurately recording the feeding schedule with the time and amount of formula given.
To safely weigh kittens at home use a kitchen baking scale that contains a large capacity bowl.

Average weight for kittens:

Age (days)________Weight
1 2 ½ to 4 ¾ oz
5 3 to 7 oz
10 4 ½ to 9 ¾ oz
15 6 to 11 ¾ oz
20 7 ½ to 14 ½ oz
25 8 to 16 ¾ oz
Reprinted courtesy of Alley Cat Allies

The most important thing to note is that each kitten is gaining some amount of weight every single day.

Stages of Growth:
First week- kittens are virtually helpless at birth. Tiny and wet, they generally weigh in between 3-4 oz and are less then 6 inches long. Their eyes are closed and ears folded over. They are deaf and blind at birth. During the first week their sense of smell, hearing and taste begin to take shape. They can’t urinate or defecate on their own.
At this time they spend 90% of their time sleeping and the other 10% nursing. They can call out in distress and purr.

Second week- The kitten’s eyes begin to open (they are blue) and focus a bit. The ears also begin to open and stand up. They begin to crawl and snuggle in their nest. They are unable to retract their tiny claws, but knead enthusiastically.

Third week- Their eyesight improves. Those important first steps take place in the form of wobbly movements. They begin to cut baby teeth. True eye color appears. They begin to notice the world around them – full of sights, sounds and siblings.

Fourth week- by now they’re busy exploring their environment, playing with litter mates (if they don’t have litter mates, you need to be their litter mate and play with them a lot!) be careful not to teach them to play roughly with your hands- it’s cute at this age, but will not be so cute when they are adults biting your hand. They learn how to dig; they roll over and get back up. They begin lapping and go to the bathroom without help. Litter box training begins.

Fifth week- vigorous kitten play, including hiding, stalking, and pouncing. Baby teeth are in. Individual personalities emerge. The process of learning to nibble solid food continues.

Sixth week- their balance has improved. They learn to negotiate their territory, trotting and running in a smoother fashion. They’re more playful and begin to use their nails to climb (your legs) and they thrive on physical and mental stimulation.

Boy or Girl:
To determine the sex of you kitten, gently lift their tails and take a peek. Keep English punctuation in mind. The anus, testes and penis will resemble an exclamation point on males. Females will exhibit an anus and vulva that looks remarkably like a colon.

Feed Me:
Cow’s milk should never be given to kittens. It’s a poor substitute for a mother cat’s milk. The lactose level is too high and the fat and protein level are too low for kittens.
Even worse it causes diarrhea which can quickly dehydrate kittens.

Always use premixed formulas made specifically for kittens.

General feeding:
Kittens age Average Amount of Number of
(Weeks) weight formula per day feedings daily

1 4 oz 32 cc 6

2 7 oz 56 cc 4

3 10 oz 80 cc 3

4 13 oz 104 cc 3

5 1lb 128 cc 3

This is the average, but this is only a guideline and you will need to monitor your kitten to be sure it is gaining weight. It is important to not over feed or under feed your kitten.
Over feeding can cause diarrhea. One way to tell if you are overfeeding is the kittens will have appearance of grayish stool. On the other hand, a kitten that is not fed enough will cry continuously and appear restless, then listless. Under feeding will result in the kitten becoming dehydrated and chilled. Keep in mind a kitten’s milk intake is limited to her small stomach. The stomach should feel full but not swollen after she is fed.

A kitten requires about 8 cc’s of formula per ounce of body weight a day, divided among feedings. Follow the general feeding guide, but realize that each kitten is an individual and feeding is not an exact science. Healthy kittens let you know when they want to be fed and will often let you know they are full by releasing the nipple. If your kitten wake up and cries, she is probably hungry.

Bottle Feeding:
Kittens that are strong enough to suck vigorously on your finger should be bottle fed. Be sure to make the hole in the nipple big enough that kitten milk can go through, but not so large it runs out too quickly risking aspiration (milk in kitten’s lungs)

Be sure to sterilize all utensils before each feeding and warmth the formula to no more than 100 degrees F – test the formula on your wrist, it should feel warm not hot. Make sure the formula has no hot spots if you use the microwave.
To bottle feed kittens visualize the kitten’s natural position if she were nursing from her mom. Place the kitten stomach down on a towel it can cling to at roughly a 45 degree angle. Squeeze a drop of milk on the tip of the nipple, gently open her mouth and slip the nipple between her jaws. The angle helps prevent air from entering the stomach.
Never hold the kitten in the air or on her back while feeding. Never force feed your kitten or squeeze the bottle. Let the kitten suck on her own and sit back and relax. You and your kitten will catch on quickly! When you kitten is full, her tummy will be slightly rounded and bubbles will form around her moth. Just like young human babies, kittens must be burped after each feeding. Hold your kitten upright on against your shoulder. Pat and rub her gently on her back.

If your kitten appears to choke during a feeding or you notice formula coming out of his nose, don’t panic. The kitten may have aspirated some formula into his lungs. Immediately and gently hold the kitten upside down until the choking or coughing subsides. Tip: Make sure the hole in the nipple is not too large.

Stimulation means elimination
kittens younger then 3 weeks of age cannot eliminate on their own, they need your help. A mother cat normally licks the kitten’s genital and anal areas to stimulate them to urinate and defecate. You can do this after feeding and burping your kitten, take a cotton ball and moisten with warm water and gently rub over stomach and bottom. This action mimics the mom’s licking and will stimulate the kitten to relieve themselves. You will need to do this after every meal.

Wash after every meal
Tiny kittens are irresistibly cute, but they are also very messy. Like the mother cat you will want to clean them up after meals or after they eliminate. Don’t immerse a kitten in water this can cause respiratory problems. Instead, wash her with a warm, damp washcloth using short, gentle strokes; this mimics the moms licking her baby clean. Get them as dry as possible and then leave them in a warm, draft-free area until you are sure they are completely dry. Never allow your kitten to become chilled.

Weaning your kitten
the first thing to learn about weaning is that kittens do not always stick to the schedule we plan for them. Weaning has a lot more to do with the kitten’s readiness to be weaned than our desire to hurry the process along.

When your kitten reaches 4 weeks (occasionally earlier) start putting the formula in a shallow bowl or pan. Neatness doesn’t count, so be prepared for some wildly messy moments as your preschoolers learn to eat from a pan and not in it. At this time also, start leaving out fresh water in shallow dishes. From this point on fresh water should be available at all times.

Continue to keep your kittens as clean and dry as possible. Like a mother cat you will teach your kitten to clean their fur and groom themselves. The old adage about cleanliness being nest to godliness will prevent a host of skin problems.

Begin to add solid foods gradually. Use a high quality canned food designed specifically for kittens. Smear some on their lips or touch a finger to the mixture and put it in the kitten’s mouth. This is also when to leave dry kitten food out in a bowl. Be patient with the dry food; remember it takes time for the young kittens to become strong enough to chew dry kitten food. Weaning should not be finished until the kitten is 6 weeks or older.

Litter box time
At approximately 4 weeks your kitten is ready for litter box training. Her first litter box should allow for easy access- a small litter box or pie tin with a shallow layer of litter works well. Place the kitten in the litter and scratch the paws in it. This should be enough, but if necessary you should put a bit of their own stool in the box so they know what to do. They usually figure this out quickly. Use only clay litter or another non-clumping alternative (like Yesterdays News made from recycled paper) for safety sake. If they ingest it, they could end up with an obstruction. If it sticks to their nose it could impede their ability to breath.

Socializing
The kittens need to be handled a lot in order to be easy to handle adults. It is crucial they be given lots of attention, play time, cuddling. This is also a good time to get them used to having their nails trimmed. Place them on their back holding them like a baby. The more they are handled as kittens the more accepting of this they will be as adults. It is also important for them to be around noises, such as t. v., radio, people talking and so on.

(thank you Casa de los Gatos)

I use my thumb nail to know of the tartar build up.

Using the pet tooth paste and the finger brush or gauze, helps to clean teeth.

How to clean your pet’s teeth

Something I copied from the web.. looks good…

1. If you have a kitten, or you have never tried to get to your cat’s teeth, begin by using you finger dipped in something they love!. Try tuna water; cats love this! Use this training tool for four days by putting the treat (the tuna water) on your finger and open your pet’s mouth and rub it all around. As the cat gets used to having your fingers around his mouth, praise him a lot.
2. Now move to a piece of gauze wrapped around your finger; now they are going to get used to a bulkier finger. Be sure to keep the sessions short, never more than three to five minutes at a time. Be sure you are working the tips of the gum line and the teeth. You can do this several times a day when first trying to train your cat, but I would suggest no more than three times, and spread them apart by several hours.
3. Now it is time to find toothpaste your cat will like. This is trial and error but they now make several flavor choices to choose from like chicken, beef and fish. They are all safe for your cat, and the best part of the whole process is that while you still have to brush his teeth, you don’t have to try to get your cat to rinse. You will still be using a finger wrapped with gauze at this point. Put the toothpaste on the gauze and brush the gums and teeth. Once they are used to this, you are ready for the next step.
4. It is time to get the toothbrush. Here too, there are many styles on the market. You can find anything from a plastic glove with finger brushes on the thumb and forefinger (my personal favorite), to a regular toothbrush, to a toothbrush you can put on your finger. If you find that you receive too much resistance from trying to brush your cat’s teeth with a brush, you can use a clean piece of gauze to apply the toothpaste.
5. Remember to brush the teeth well.

Jennifer Aniston and Norman- (she got the dogs)

Actress Jennifer Aniston and her 10-year-old corgi-terrier mix, Norman, enjoy strolling the length of beach in front of their Malibu home.

Adam Brody and Penny Lane

California-born actor Adam Brody and pit bull mix Penny Lane radiate cool as they saunter down the streets of L.A.

Sienna Miller and Porgy & Bess

Sienna Miller and her two perky mixed-breed pooches, Porgy and Bess.

Charlize Theron and Tucker

Animal-rights activist Charlize Theron (who once posed for a PETA anti-fur billboard) gets wet in the waves with her dog, Tucker.