Read This BEFORE You Give Up Your Pet Due to Allergies…

video

Condider using Palm Husk or leaves to feed and water so that the dishes do not call attention.. see great ideas at web site below..

Feral Power…

The below is borrowed from Stray Cat Alliance

http://www.straycatalliance.org/index.php

ONE:
Feral cats should be humanely trapped. Cats should be vaccinated for feline disease, including rabies and spayed/neutered. After recovery, feral cats should be returned to the colony, at the original location. Surgeries and treatments (including inoculations) must be administered by a consultant veterinarian(s).

TWO:
At the time of the sterilization, Colony caregivers should consider requesting the veterinarian to draw a blood sample from some colony members, for the purpose of monitoring any zoonotic disease that might affect the colony or caregiver.

THREE:
Colonies should not be located near endangered species.

FOUR:
Colonies can only be allowed with written permission from the landowner.

FIVE:
A caregiver and alternate caregiver must agree to take responsibility for the colonies. Ideally, the landowner should take responsibility for their colony. In all cases, caregivers must be trained and certified in humane trapping, recognition of symptoms of feline diseases, principles of feral cat care and maintenance, and policies/guidelines regarding TTVAR-M Feral Cat Colony Control.

SIX:
The organization should monitor caregivers and audit colonies on a regular basis. It is suggested that inventories and detailed records should be kept regarding each colony, and include identification characteristics (including numbers) for cats, medical records, and pertinent history regarding trapping, deaths, and vaccination dates.

SEVEN:
Newcomers to the colony, cats that are losing fear of humans, and kittens should be removed from the colony. A size “cap” should be determined for the colony. While the colony will decrease in size due to attrition, it may be possible that at some point the cats may feel it necessary to allow the addition of a newcomer, or young neutered male. While, the maximum size of a colony will be unique to the environment, under no circumstances should the colony be allowed to grow for any other reason.

EIGHT:
Discreet shelters should be provided for each colony. Diet should be arranged after consultation with a veterinarian(s). Food should be removed before nightfall, in order to prevent attraction by wildlife. Water should be provided in areas lacking a natural and safe supply.

NINE:
In no instance should cats be trapped and released to other locations without the permission of both landowners. Relocation of non-socialized cats to other locations should only occur if absolutely necessary.

TEN:
In order to discourage abandonment, information regarding locations of colonies should not be released to the public.

FAQs

Frequently Asked Questions

What is a feral cat?

Feral cats are outdoor, free-roaming cats who have never been socialized to humans and are living in a “wild” state. This could be a formerly domestic cat who has been abandoned and has reverted back to a “wild” state, or a cat who has been born on the streets and has never had any contact or interaction with humans. Feral cats look like regular domestic house-cats, but because they have never been socialized, they are very fearful and distrustful of humans. Some arch their backs and hiss and show aggression, others just avoid eye contact and run. With true ferals, you can’t pick them up or handle them. Very often you can’t even get close to them. They are the un-owned cats or “community cats.”

What is a stray cat?

Stray cats are former pets or companion cats who have been abandoned or “strayed” from home and become lost. Stray cats are generally tame and handleable. These cats used to be cared for by an owner, but are now trying to survive on their own on the streets. Stray cats can be handled and held, although they still may be skittish or frightened and run away from people. Generally, though, stray cats exhibit similar temperaments as pet cats and can be rescued off the streets and adopted into homes again.

What is a tame cat?

A tame cat is a friendly, domesticated cat. “Tame” refers to the disposition of the cat. Tame cats can either be someone’s pet or companion, or they can be a friendly stray cat making his/her way on the street. Tame cats can generally be picked up, held, touched, and are used to being around or living with people.

What is TNR and what does it stand for?

TNR stands for Trap-Neuter-Return. Trap-Neuter-Return is a community-based program. It involves concerned citizens like you trapping feral, free-roaming cats in your neighborhood, bringing them to a clinic like FixNation to get them spayed or neutered, and then returning the cats to the exact spot where you trapped them so they can live out the rest of their natural lives.

Why does TNR work?

Spaying and neutering the cats will end the cycles of homeless kittens being born so the population stabilizes, and over time it reduces naturally. Once the cats are fixed, the problematic behaviors of howling, cat fighting and spraying also subside. Trap-Neuter-Return is the only humane way to effectively reduce the feral cat population, so that people and cats can peacefully co-exist.

Can’t I just trap the cats and remove them?

Trap and remove does not work. Cats are there in the environment because of two main reasons: 1) there is a food source (intended or not) and 2) there is some sort of shelter. When cats are removed from a location, the surrounding cats breed rapidly to fill in the gap, plus new cats move in to take advantage of the natural food and shelter. This “vacuum effect “is well documented. Trapping and removing cats often results in you having even more unsterilized cats than when you started. Apart from being ineffective, trapping and killing is inhumane and very costly to taxpayers. Trap-Neuter-Return is the only proven solution. TNR stops the cycle of kittens and caps the population growth, so that the population will naturally be reduced over time.

What if I take the feral cats to the shelter? Can the shelter find homes for them?

If you take feral cats or feral kittens to the shelter, the shelter will euthanize them. Feral cats have never been socialized to humans so they are deemed “unadoptable” by the shelter and they are not even shown to the public. They are held for the mandatory state holding period of three days and then killed. Even supposedly no-kill shelters are not able to place feral cats in homes and the cats are killed.

I feel bad for the feral cat. Can I just keep it as a pet?

Feral or “wild” cats are not pets. Feral cats already have a home… outside. Feral cats are very fearful and distrustful of humans and therefore un-adoptable. Confining them in a home is like keeping them in captivity for life. Feral cats live outdoors just like other wildlife.

Feral kittens can often be adopted into homes, but only if they are socialized at an early age. Generally kittens up to around 12 weeks of age can be tamed relatively easily. However, the older the kittens get, the harder it is to tame them. Whether you can tame them or not also depends on the temperament of the kitten; some are more gentle and friendly than others. There is a critical window of time in which kittens must be socialized, and if they aren’t handled in time, they will remain feral and therefore unadoptable.

Stray cats, however, can be taken into homes as pets. Remember, stray cats used to be someone’s pet and were either abandoned or they “strayed” from home and became lost. These are cats who are used to being in homes and are struggling to survive on the street. Tame, friendly stray cats can and should be picked up off the street and adopted into homes again.

I’m way too busy to trap. What happens if I just ignore the cats?

If you ignore the cats, they will continue to breed prolifically. Cats can start having litters when they’re only five months old, and they can have 3-4 litters a year, usually of 5-6 kittens per litter. If you just ignore the situation, in a short time you can easily go from three or four cats to 30+. Trap-Neuter-Return is the only solution to control the population growth. Start TNR’ing now before the problem gets out of control.

What is FixNation’s free feral program?

FixNation offers free spay/neuter services for homeless, stray and feral cats. Under our free feral program, all homeless cats who will be “eartipped” for identification purposes will receive the following free services at the time of surgery: Spay/neuter, rabies vaccine, feline distemper (FVRCP) vaccine, flea treatment, de-worming, fluids, antibioitic and pain medication.

What is an eartip? Why do I need to eartip a feral cat?

Eartipping is the universal symbol to identify that an outdoor or free-roaming cat has been fixed. This involves clipping off, or “tipping” the upper 1 centimeter of the cat’s right ear so that it’s straight across instead of coming up into a point. This is done while the cat is under anesthesia, is relatively painless for the cat, and it does not significantly alter the appearance or beauty of the cat. (See photo below.) Since feral cats are wild, you cannot get close enough to them or pick them up to tell if they have been fixed before. The eartip allows you to recognize at a distance whether the cat has been fixed. It is a sign to your neighbors, other trappers and caregivers in the area, and even to Animal Control that the cat has been fixed.

Eartip example

I have feral cats in my neighborhood that I would like to get fixed. Where do I start? What do I need to do?

Before you can come to our clinic, we first require an application. You can download our application from our website. You will find both our Feral Cat Application and our Tame Cat Application on our homepage in the lower right-hand box under our Forms & Resources section. You can complete whichever application is most appropriate to your situation. When you’re done, you can either email it back to us, fax it to us or mail it in. Our fax number, email and physical address are all listed on the top of the application form.

Once we receive your application back, a staff member will call you within 48-72 hours to get you started, loan you humane traps if need be, and get you scheduled for initial reservations. Reservations must be made in advance. Please do not bring cats to our clinic without a confirmed reservation, as you will be turned away.

I want to get my own pet cat fixed, but I can’t afford to. Can you help me?

FixNation will provide free spay/neuter services for any cat, regardless of your income qualifications, provided that the cat gets eartipped. Under our free feral program, all homeless cats who will be “eartipped” for identification purposes will receive the following free services at the time of surgery: Spay/neuter, rabies vaccine, feline distemper (FVRCP) vaccine, flea treatment, de-worming, fluids, antibioitic and pain medication. We can do a small eartip on request, particularly if the cat is your own companion cat, a stray cat who you rescued and are trying to find a home for, or for any kittens who you rescued who you are trying to tame down and adopt out.

What if I don’t want to eartip the cat?

For any tame, companion cats or rescued kittens who are not getting eartipped, we do offer spay/neuter services at reduced rates. The cost of a female spay is $55 and a male neuter is $40 (as of 1/1/10). We also offer vaccines and flea treatment for tame cats for an additional cost and only at the time the cat is here for spay/neuter surgery. If you live in the city of Los Angeles, you may qualify for a city spay/neuter voucher good for $30 off the price of the surgery (or $70 off for low-income families). City vouchers can be picked up at any city animal shelter provided they have some available.

What if the cat is pregnant?

It is safe to spay your cat even if she is pregnant. The pregnancy will be humanely aborted. While later term pregnancies pose a slightly higher surgical risk, our veterinarians are highly experienced and it is safe to spay your cat at any point during the pregnancy.

This female cat just had kittens. When should I get her spayed?

We request that you wait until the kittens are 5 weeks old before you trap and bring in the mom. Kittens under 5 weeks need their mother since they have to nurse every couple of hours. They also require their mom to be able to keep warm, since they can’t hold in body heat on their own yet. The kittens also can’t go to the bathroom on their own yet; the mother has to stimulate them to go. After 5 weeks of age, kittens can go a slightly longer time without their mother and they are able to eat wet food and go to the bathroom on their own.

After the spay, can the mother cat still nurse her kittens? Is it safe for the kittens?

Yes, the mother cat can still safely nurse her kittens after the spay surgery. She will continue to produce milk, and nursing won’t interfere with her ability to heal post-surgery. It is also safe for the kittens to nurse and the spay won’t interfere with the milk production at all.

Ron Hines DVM PhD

Next to fleas, allergies are the most common cause of itching and scratching in your pet.

Also common, are two forms of mange, sarcoptic and demodectic which can also be responsible for hair loss and scratching. Fleas are dealt with in another article in this series and sarcoptic and demodectic mange are also covered elsewhere.

I included a diagram of the flea life cycle here, because over half the cases of allergic skin diseases have fleas – seen or unseen – as the underlying cause. Once you are certain that no fleas or mites are present, it is likely that allergies are the cause of your pet’s scratching. In human beings, allergies are often expressed through the respiratory system. If you yourself have allergies, you are likely to have a stuffy nose, sneezing and watery eyes. This is because the histamines that humans produce are released primarily in the membranes of the respiratory system and eyes. In dogs, histamines are released primarily in the skin.

How Allergies Occur:
All chronic allergies are based on the body recognizing protein substances as foreign and trying to rid itself of them. Mold, dander, bacteria, pollen, flea saliva along with a host of other substances are allergens made up of proteins foreign to the body.
We will talk about pollen allergies for an example because they are so common. In this case pollen is called an allergen – something the body recognizes as foreign. When a pet’s immune system is exposed to pollen for the first time, some pollen attaches to the linings of the nose and lungs . The body’s immune system recognizes that pollen is not supposed to be there and, in response, produces antibodies against the pollen called immunoglobulins of the E class (IgE) and G class (allergen-specific IgG). This process is called sensitization. The IgE attaches to cells in the body called mast cells. These cells then leak and release histamines, bradykinins, and proteolytic enzymes, which cause the symptoms of allergy. In people large numbers of mast cells are located in the respiratory system. That is why our allergies usually have respiratory system symptoms. In dogs and cats, more mast cells are present in the skin. That is why dog and cat allergies usually cause signs associated with the skin and ears such as itching, hives and inflammation. This allergic disease is called atopy. Only 15% of pollen allergies in dogs and cats cause respiratory system signs, such as nasal stuffiness and sneezing.

Types of Allergies:

There are two types of allergies that cause dogs and cats to itch. Because susceptibility to allergies is inherited, it is quite common for pets to have both types.
Canine Inhalant Atopy
This is the type of allergy for which we used pollen as an example. It is the most common form of allergy in dogs and cats, making up over ninety percent of the cases I see. About nine percent of the canine population has this disease. Certain breeds are more susceptible to than others. Among the most susceptible are Shar-peis, Fox Terriers, Golden Retrievers, West Highland White Terriers, Scottish Terriers, Shih Tzus, Dalmatians, Lhasa Apsos, Boston Terriers and Labrador Retrievers. Cats of any breed can be affected. Dogs usually show their first signs of itching between 10 months and 4 years. If a dog does not have this condition by the time it is four years of age it is unlikely that it will ever have atopic skin disease. The disease often begins as a seasonal problem but after a number of years (or moving to a southern climate) the itching occurs year round. Some common allergens are flea saliva, tree, grass and shrub pollens, house dust, mold, dust mites, and feathers.
Flea saliva allergy is a special form of Atopy. Fleas survive by sucking blood from your pets. To get this blood they drill their mouthparts into the dog or cat’s skin and inject special anticoagulant saliva into the site to keep blood flowing while they engorge. This saliva is highly irritating to some dogs and cats. These pets do not only itch at the site of the flea bites, they itch all over. The pads of their feet are often itchy, puffy and inflamed. Areas between the toe pads as well as the ears often become infected with bacteria due to the pets constant licking and chewing. Because of the availability of excellent flea-control products such as Advantage and Frontline, I see less flea allergy than I used to.

Food Allergies:

Food allergy cases are less than fifteen percent as common as canine atopy but occur with about the same frequency as atopy in cats. The itching food allergies produce is constant throughout the year. Cocker Spaniels, West Highland White Terriers and Labrador Retrievers are particularly susceptible to food allergies. However, the majority of these breeds that have itching problems do not have food allergies. Dogs and cats can be any age older that a few months when signs first begin. Some common food allergies in dogs are to beef and pork, fish, dairy, eggs, corn, soy, wheat and preservatives and dyes in food and treats. But almost any diet ingredient can be involved. The most common allergens in cats are to fish, beef and chicken.

Symptoms:

Canine Atopy and food allergies are not visually distinguishable because the signs of both diseases are the same. The most common sign of the conditions is constant itching, scratching and licking. Dogs will often rub on objects. The degree of discomfort the pet undergoes is partly dependent on its temperament. High strung breeds and very active pets do severe damage to their skin. The face, lumbar area at the base of the tail (particularly if fleas are the cause) ears and paws show the most damage. In severe cases the skin of the whole body is inflamed and covered in crusts while the hair coat is thin and broken. In mild cases the pets only lick these areas, discoloring light hair coats with salivary stain. When fleas are the problem, small pepper-like granules are present over the neck or in the dorsolumbar area. These specks of digested blood or flea dirt will “bleed” a rust-colored trail if moved to white tissue paper and wetted with water.

As the dog or cat scratches, it destroys the outer waxy layer of the skin. This allows bacteria and mold to enter the skin and causes a musty, oily skin condition called seborrhea. Because ears are covered with skin, ear canal redness, odor and inflammation are common in canine atopy. Sometimes ear problems are the only sign present. When this is the case, we treat the ears with specific antibiotic, antifungal, corticosteroid preparations but must treat the whole dog with medications as well.

Cats develop a condition called milliary dermatitis in which the surface of the back and scruff of the neck are covered with bumps and scabs. Allergic cats sometimes develop another condition called eosinophilic granuloma complex in which ulcers form on the lips, tongue and surface of the body. After months and years of scratching, the skin of the inner thighs and flank often becomes thickened and blackish. This condition is called acanthosis nigricans.

Damaged skin due to the pets scratching often leads to superficial staphylococcus bacterial infections (pyoderma) and infection with the yeast, Malassezia. Mild bacterial conjunctivitis or eye infections with greenish matter at the inner corner of the eye are common. It is important to realize that although a bacterial or fungus condition is present and may need treatment, the root of the problem is allergic dermatitis. In very severe cases of skin allergy, the superficial lymph nodes of the body enlarge due to secondary skin infections.

Diagnosis of Allergic Skin Problems:

The clinical diagnosis of allergic dermatitis is one of exclusion of other causes of skin disease. I usually do skin scrapings when pets with this condition are presented to me for the first time. Through skin scrapings, I try to rule out mange as a cause of the pet’s problems and locate bacteria and fungi. If I cannot rule out mange, if the dog’s history suggests it might be mange, or other members of the household are itching, I may put the pet on a test dose of a safe anti mange medicine called ivermectin. I next try to rule out fleas as the source of the problem. Some dogs are so good at grooming that no fleas remain on them when they are examined. Even when I cannot locate fleas on the pet I can often locate flea dirt. In some of these pets the presence of tapeworms is the only indication of fleas or I may find fleas on another household pet, which does not have skin problems.

There are other signs that the problem may be allergic. Typically atopy occurs in dogs between one and three years of age. This makes the diagnosis of allergies in puppies and older dogs less likely. The first two or three years that the condition exists it is often seasonal occurring only in the spring and summer months. Flea-related allergies tend to subside after the first few freezes of the winter. Golden retrievers and arctic breeds with thick oily hair are susceptible to a special form of dermatitis called hot spots or acute pyotraumatic dermatitis. In these cases the dogs suddenly become extremely itchy over a small area. They are so troubled that they pull out the fur of this area and infect it through chewing in a matter of hours. The itching sensation departs rapidly thereafter -with or without treatment. It is not known if they represent a true form of allergy. Another form of the disease is called acral lick dermatitis. In these cases a small area of skin itches over an extended period. Licking leads to a well-defined small area of raw skin, scarring and bacterial infection.

I try to learn if the parents of the dog or cat or its brothers and sisters also have itchy skin disease. Canine atopy as well as food allergies runs in families.

In diagnosing food allergies I look for uniform involvement of the skin over the entire body. I rarely find that diarrhea accompanies food allergies. Often the best way to rule out food allergies is to put the pet on a sixty to ninety day trial eating a hypoallergenic diet exclusively. Many hypoallergenic diets are available. Until recently these diets relied on novel protein sources such as lamb, venison duck or fish. The problem is that with time, pets eventually became allergic to these diets too. Now two brands of hypoallergenic diets are available that use heat and hydrolysis to break food proteins into a size too small to cause allergies (less than 10,000 daltons). The biggest problem with these diets is that some pets won’t eat them.

I will usually examine pets with skin disease in a darkened room with an ultraviolet lamp. Hairs that glow are diagnostic for ringworm. Ringworm is almost never itchy and glowing hairs are not found in cases of allergic skin disease.

Il often encounter Malassezia yeast in skin scrapings of dogs with itchy skin. This fungus is a normal inhabits the skin of dogs. It only becomes a problem when the pet has an underlying problem such as allergic skin disease. Antifungal shampoos are quite helpful in controlling it.

Allergy Tests

Rast Test (In-vitro (laboratory) test, performed on your pet’s blood)

As in humans, allergy testing can be helpful in diagnosing allergic skin disease. Two forms of allergy testing are available. The easiest and most commonly performed test in animal hospitals is called the RAST test. This test, which is performed on a blood sample from your pet, stands for radioallergosorbent test. In the test, the presence of IgE antibodies to specific antigens is determined by a central laboratory. Pets must not have had corticosteroids or antihistamines administered for thirty days prior to testing. The problem with this test is its high number of false positives. If the test determines that a pet is not allergic to an antigen – that is probably correct. But positive reactions often turn out to be wrong. If the RAST test is used, the central laboratory will prepare an antigen extract, which can be injected into the pet’s skin periodically to decrease the effects of allergies. The most current research indicates that this test extremely inaccurate in pets and humans. Go with skin tests if at all possible.

Skin Test

A more reliable test is an intradermal skin test. Before the test is administered, the pet is taken off all corticosteroid, tranquilizing or antihistamine medications for 30-60 days. In this test, small amounts of various allergens are injected into the skin. The entire side of the pet must be shaven to perform this test. Then the injection sites are monitored over an hour’s period to judge the degree of redness and swelling at each site. A list of offending antigens is used to prepare an allergen extract, which is injected periodically into the pet. With time and success, these injections lessen the pet’s allergies to these allergens. Because a high degree of skill is necessary in giving and interpreting the results of this test, veterinary dermatologists usually perform it.

Occasionally, when I am uncertain if the problem is a routine case of allergy, I will take a biopsy specimen of the skin involved and send it to a pathologist for evaluation and diagnosis. This can rule out the presence of other disease such as lupus. Blood tests may detect elevated levels of eosinophiles, which occasionally also occur in allergic skin disease.

Treatment of Allergic Skin Disease:

It is next to impossible to avoid all the environmental allergens that plague allergy-prone dogs and cats. The exceptions are pets that are chiefly bothered by fleas. I enforce strict flea control – even if I am uncertain that fleas are present. Many dogs and cats are cured by this simple task alone.

Approximately one in twenty of my clients elect to undergo skin testing and desensitization of their pets. This figure differs from practice to practice. The procedure takes a bit over a year to show results. Dermatologists argue for the procedure pointing out, correctly so, that even if desensitization does not cure the pets, it may lower the dose of corticosteroids they require later in the disease. Skin testing also identifies the allergens and perhaps some of them can be avoided or eliminated from the pet’s environment. The procedure is extensive, expensive, and requires a life-long commitment to frequent injections. Most owners learn to give these injections themselves.

Medicines of the cortisone class are effective and dramatic in controlling the symptoms of allergic skin disease. The problem is that this class of drugs has substantial and serious side effects when given in high doses or over extended periods of time. My challenge is to treat these pets as long as I can without the use of these steroids. To do so, I use medications that are effective but less dramatically so.

Medicated Shampoos.

Medicated shampoos are quite soothing to inflamed skin and lessen itching. I begin using clear tar preparations such as lye tar shampoos. If these are not adequate, I dispense selenium sulfide or benzyl peroxide shampoos. Benzyl peroxide is quite effective in eliminating secondary bacterial infections in these cases. Some pets are helped by oatmeal and antihistamine shampoos. With all these products, the skin should first be cleansed with soapless soaps and then the medicated product massaged in and allowed a long contact period with the skin – the longer the better. Weekly shampooing along with flea control is often sufficient for a number of years. Some pets cannot tolerate weekly bathing as it dries out their skin too much. Use of a skin conditioning rinse helps in some cases. Also, use temperate, not hot water, when you bath your pets.

Antihistamines and tranquilizers

Antihistamines block the release of histamines by mast cells. They are quite helpful to some pets. Unfortunately, the effects are not as dramatic as in humans. Ciproheptadine given twice a day, hydroxyzine or even OTC Chlorpheniramine maleate are effective in lessening symptoms in some dogs and cats. Many antihistamines have a calming effect in dogs. I have had cat owners discontinue their use because they did not like personality changes in their cats while on these medications. Some antihistamines can be applied in shampoo form. Some dogs do well when given mild tranquilizers such as acepromazine at 0.25mg/ pound.

Corticosteroids

Many owners are worried when we suggest that their pets receive measured doses of corticosteroids to treat stubborn allergy cases. They should not be. These drugs have nearly miraculous powers in both human and animal medicine. They just should not be over used. Some drugs of the cortisone class are prednisolone, prednisone, triamcinolone, dexamethasone, beclomethasone, and betamethasone. Often I use so little of these drugs that a bit of itching persists but at a tolerable level. I usually give prednisolone or prednisone two or three times a week. At a low dose I do not encounter noticeable side effects. There will often be a point, many years into the disease, when higher cortisone doses are required. Combining topical medications, antihistamines, desensitization and cortisone let us keep the cortisone dose as low as possible. I do not feel that I have ever used cortisone to an extent that an allergic pets life was shortened although some have suffered weight gain. I do know that the use of these drugs has greatly improved the quality of many pets’ lives. Whenever possible, the use of long acting corticosteroids such as methylprednisolone acetate should be limited to a single yearly injection or oral forms of corticosteroids used instead. You may notice that your pet drinks more and urinates more on these medications. If they are over used a disease called Cushings Syndrome or hyperadrenocorticism can result (see article on that subject).

Antibiotics

Dogs that are presented to me with severe bacterial skin infections subsequent to self- trauma (scratching) need a two-week course of antibiotics to clear up the infection. I like to use a broad-spectrum antibiotic such as one of the fluroquinolones (Batryl) or a potentiated cephalosporin such as Clavamox (Augmentin). I begin antihistamines and medicated shampoos in these cases immediately but I delay any corticosteroids until the skin has healed. If yeasts are an important component of the problem I treat them with ketaconazole shampoos.

Food Supplements

There are a very large number of “neutraceutical” products marketed for allergic skin disease. Many of them have never been scientifically tested. The best that can be said of many of these products is that they can do no harm. When I recommend these products, I usually suggest one that combines omega-3 and omega-6 fatty acids. Many of these products also contain zinc. Some clients find them beneficial.

Distractions

No matter what the underlying cause of itching is in your pet, boredom, inactivity and unoccupied time will make it worse. It is not unusual for the underlying cause of itching to be eliminated by your veterinarian, only to have the pet continue to scratch and lick itself from force of habit. To minimize this, give your pets plenty of distractions. Hidden food morsels, toys and chew toys, walks, play time, other pets, and view through a porch, kennel or window all take your pet’s mind off of its skin. Try these distractions, and others you might think of, before you resort to tranquilizers and mood-altering medications.

Your Pet’s Future:

Allergic dermatitis is a life long condition. Unless the problem is solely fleas there are no cures. Luckily it is not a life threatening or a life shortening condition and it can be managed with a minimum of inconvenience. Often, there will be periods of a year or more when the disease is not as severe and needs less or no medications. When a family moves the disease is often left behind. Unfortunately not too much time passes at their new location before the pet becomes allergic to new allergens. Because this is an inherited trait, pets with this disease should never be bred. The fact that so many pets suffer from allergic skin disease shows that many breeders disregard this advice.

Are You Sure Your Pet Bird Gets All the Nutrients He Needs?

Jan’s 23 year old Huey and Seattle

Female cats can be spayed almost any time from as young as 4 months. DO IT!!!

All pets including cats, dogs and horses are at risk for dehydration, especially in the warm months. In the winter it is less likely as they spend time indoors with you, while you watch TV or play something like Foxy bingo www.foxybingo.com. They dislike the cold as much as we do, but once the sun is out it’s a different story. Pets at higher risk include older or very young ones, pregnant, nursing or sick animals. Dogs may overdo it when exercising with you and physically drain themselves, leading to a problem. Keep an eye on the animals to prevent it. If you do suspect dehydration, then try these  suggestions:

Look for visible signs. These symptoms include sunken eyes, exhaustion or dry mouth.

Visit the vet for a quick blood test to check for dehydration. Do this test especially if your pet was without water for a long period of time.

Test your dog or cat’s skin elasticity. Gently pull the skin near the middle of your pet’s back. If he is dehydrated, then the skin won’t have its usual elasticity. It will “tent”.

Give her some food and see if she’ll eat. Another symptom of dehydration is a loss of appetite.

Check the gums. Expose the gums and press them gently and briefly with your thumb. Blood is forced through the gum and should return to its normal color within 2 seconds. If it does not, then it could be a sign.

Your cat should be resting comfortably on your lap, the floor, or a table. Hold a paw in one hand and press a toe pad gently to extend the claw. Notice the pink tissue (the quick) on the inside of the claw. Avoid the quick when you trim the claw; cutting into it will cause pain and bleeding Remove the sharp tip below the quick (away from the toe), clipping about halfway between the end of the quick and the tip of claw. If your cat becomes impatient, take a break and try again later. Even if you can clip only a claw or two a day, eventually you’ll complete the task. (Because cats do little damage with their rear claws and do a good job of keeping them trim themselves-by chewing them-many cat owners never clip the rear claws. Others trim their cats’ rear claws three or four times a year or have them done by their veterinarian or a professional groomer.)

Many people hold the clippers at right angles to the nail, thus cutting across the nail. This tends to make the nail more subject to splitting or fraying. It is better to hold the clippers in a vertical position–that is, up and down, so that the claw is trimmed from bottom to top instead of across the nail. This position help prevent splitting.

Gently press the cat’s toe pads to reveal sharp claws in need of a trim.

Notice the pink tissue (the quick) on the inside of the claw. Avoid the quick when you trim the claw; cutting into it will cause pain and bleeding Remove the sharp tip below the quick (away from the toe), clipping about halfway between the end of the quick and the tip of claw.

If you accidentally clip into the quick, don’t panic. The claw may bleed for a moment, but it will usually stop very quickly. Soothe your cat by speaking softly to her and stroking her head. If the bleeding hasn’t stopped after a minute or so, touch a styptic pencil to the claw end or pat on styptic powder to help staunch the bleeding.

that is the question

Know the difference… Regurgitation is a favorite pass time for my cats.

Cats can have “non-specific vomiting and/or vomiting and diarrhea… Know you pet..

good article below:

Vomiting is a very common problem in dogs and cats. There are many causes of vomiting. Primary or gastric causes of vomiting are those that are due to diseases of the stomach and upper intestinal tract. Secondary or non-gastric causes of vomiting are caused by diseases of other organs that cause an accumulation  of  toxic substances in the blood. These toxic substances stimulate the vomiting center in the brain causing the animal to vomit.

A problem that can be confused with vomiting is regurgitation. Vomiting is the ejection of contents of the stomach and upper intestine; regurgitation is the ejection of contents of the esophagus. The esophagus is a narrow, muscular tube that food passes through on its way to the stomach. In health, food moves quickly through the esophagus to the stomach. If the muscle of the esophagus loses tone, the esophagus dilates, a condition called megaesophagus. A dilated esophagus does not effectively move food to the stomach and the animal will regurgitate food usually shortly after eating. The food may also be inhaled into the airways causing pneumonia and cough.

When you present your pet to the veterinarian because he or she is vomiting, the veterinarian will ask questions in attempt to differentiate between vomiting and regurgitation and to try to determine if your pet is vomiting due to gastric or non gastric disease. Vomiting is an active process. The pet is apprehensive and heaves and retches to vomit. If food is present in vomit, it is partially digested and a yellow fluid, bile may be present. Regurgitation is fairly passive. The animal  lowers its head and food is expelled without effort.  The food brought up by regurgitation is usually undigested, may have a tubular shape, and is often covered with a slimy mucus. The pet will often try to eat the regurgitated material. You may bring a fresh sample of “vomit” for the veterinarian  to examine. The pH of vomit containing food is acid, the pH of regurgitated materials is higher. Your ability to answer questions about your pet’s activity, habits and environment will help the veterinarian decide which causes of vomiting are most likely in your pet. A history of any drugs your pet is receiving is important. Over-the-counter pain medications such as aspirin and ibuprofen can cause severe stomach ulcers in dogs depending upon the dose and duration of treatment.  The veterinarian may ask you to describe the appearance of the vomit, as well as describe how your pet looks when it vomits and the relation ship of vomiting to eating. If the vomit contains blood it may be fresh, red blood or look like coffee grounds if the blood is digested. Blood is most often seen with stomach ulcers, stomach cancer or uremia (a collection of signs including vomiting seen in pets with kidney failure). Stomach ulcers can be caused by drugs or the presence of a mast cell cancer in the skin. Mast cell cancers release histamine that leads to stomach ulcers. Regurgitation often, but not always, happens right after eating and the pet will try to eat the regurgitated food.  Vomiting occurs a variable time after eating or may occur in a pet who is off food. Animals with a twisted stomach, gastric dilation-torsion, may make frequent attempts to vomit without producing anything. Pets with a hacking cough may retch and sometime vomit at the end of an episode of forceful coughing.  An accurate description in this case would lead to an investigation of the causes of coughing, rather than vomiting.

If your pet vomits just occasionally and has a specific series of actions associated with vomiting, you may consider video taping an episode of vomiting to help describe the episodes to the veterinarian.

The physical examination of the vomiting pet can also provide information to narrow the list of possible causes.  The presence of fever, abdominal pain, jaundice, anemia or abnormal masses in the abdomen will help the veterinarian make a more specific diagnosis. The mouth should be carefully examined as some foreign objects such as string can wind around the base of the tongue with the rest of the object extending into the stomach or small intestine. A nodule may be palpated in the neck of cats with hyperthyroidism.

The list of non-gastric causes of vomiting is long.

Pancreatitis in the dog causes vomiting that is sudden in onset and often severe. The dog may have a painful belly. Pets with pancreatitis often have a  history of eating garbage or fatty table scraps. Tumors of the pancreas can cause similar signs to pancreatitis. Pancreatitis occurs in the cat but the signs are subtle and non specific and often don’t  include vomiting

Kidney failure is a common cause of vomiting in dogs and cats. The kidneys can be acutely (suddenly) damaged by poisons such as antifreeze or by severe dehydration.   Waste products that the kidneys normally get rid of, rise to high levels in just a few days. The kidneys can also gradually lose their ability to remove waste products from the body as the pet ages. Early signs of kidney failure include drinking and urinating large amounts called polyuria and polydipsia or PU-PD. PU-PD may be present for months to years before the kidney failure is severe enough to lead to waste product accumulation and vomiting. Vomiting in chronic kidney failure may began as occasional episodes and progress to severe, frequent vomiting. The pet with chronic kidney failure will often lose body condition and may have pale gums due to anemia.

Non-spayed, middle aged female pets can develop a uterine infection called pyometra. Pyometra occurs within 2 months after a heat cycle and often results in discharge of pus from the vagina. The pet may frequently lick the vagina so discharge may not be seen. Dogs develop pyometra more often than cats. Other signs may include PU-PD and depression.

Liver failure causes vomiting as well as other signs depending on the type of liver disease. Other signs of liver disease may include seizures, jaundice (a yellow discoloration of the areas of skin not covered by fur), PU-PD and fluid accumulation in the belly or legs. Bladder obstruction or rupture will cause a sudden onset of vomiting. The urethra that leads from the bladder to the outside can get plugged by stones or tumors. The animal  will strain and pass just a free drops of urine or none at all. They will also have a painful belly. Bladder obstruction if not corrected, is fatal in just a few days. The bladder can be ruptured by blunt trauma such as being hit by a car or kicked.

A form of diabetes called ketoacidosis will cause vomiting along with depression and PU-PD.

Addison’s disease is a deficiency of hormones from the adrenal gland and causes vomiting, diarrhea and weakness. Addison’s disease occurs most commonly in young to middle aged dogs, most of which are female. Addison’s is rare in the cat.  The signs of Addison’s disease may be intermittent or may be very severe and constant.

Diseases of the inner ear can cause vomiting accompanied by incoordination, circling and tilting of the head to the side. Motion during car rides stimulates the inner ear and can cause vomiting.

A sudden onset of vomiting in young, poorly vaccinated pets may be caused by infectious agents including canine distemper, canine parvovirus and feline panleukopenia virus.

There are many toxins including lead, insecticides, antifreeze and other chemicals that can cause vomiting.

Cats with elevated thyroid function, hyperthyroidism, may vomit in addition to other signs including, increased appetite, weight loss, hyperactivity and a poorly kept coat. Heartworm disease in cats may cause vomiting in addition to coughing, respiratory distress, weight loss and depression.

Primary causes of vomiting include acute gastritis often due to eating garbage or other types of dietary indiscretions; the ingestion of large amounts of hair during grooming; ulcers of the stomach; stomach or upper intestinal cancer; parasites; food allergies; the presence of a foreign body stuck in the stomach or upper intestine; twisting and dilation of the stomach; and intussusception which is a telescoping of one part of the intestine into another piece of intestine.

The stomach is usually empty 6 to 8 hours after eating. Vomiting of  food when the stomach should be empty suggests an obstruction of the stomach or abnormal motion of the stomach muscles that normally grind food and push the ground food out of the stomach.

Tests to differentiate primary causes of vomiting include x-rays or ultrasound of the abdomen and endoscopy. Endoscopy is the technique of passing a flexible scope into the stomach and upper intestine to examine the inside of these structures. It may be possible to remove a foreign body with endoscopy and small biopsies of the lining of the stomach and intestine can be taken for microscopic evaluation. Endoscopy requires general anesthesia.

If the pet vomits sporadically, the results of all tests may be normal. Many healthy dogs and cats vomit occasionally without identifying a cause. Sometimes the cause of vomiting is as simple as the pet eating too fast.  The treatment for vomiting depends upon the cause. Nonspecific treatment for vomiting includes fasting, and fluids to correct or prevent dehydration.  In episodes of sudden onset of vomiting,  food is withheld for 24 – 48 hours and water for 24 hours. Water should never be withheld from an animal with known or suspected kidney disease without replacing fluids intravenously or subcutaneously (under the skin). If vomiting stops, small amounts of a bland low-fat food are fed 3 to 6 times daily for a few days, with a gradual increase in the amount fed and a gradual transition to the pet’s normal diet. Water is also reintroduced in small amounts on the second day. You may start with  ice cubes and then gradually increase the amount of water over the day if vomiting does not reoccur.

If the pet is bright and alert and has had no previous health problems, episodes of acute vomiting  may be managed at home, although veterinary consultation prior to home treatment is advised.  Consultation with a veterinarian in your region may reveal a recent outbreak of an infectious disease causing vomiting or identify  a cluster of recent poisonings. With this type of knowledge you will want to have your pet evaluated rather than waiting a few days. Dogs and cats who vomit for longer than a few days or are depressed or dehydrated should be presented for veterinary evaluation.