Ron Hines DVM PhD

Next to fleas, allergies are the most common cause of itching and scratching in your pet.

Also common, are two forms of mange, sarcoptic and demodectic which can also be responsible for hair loss and scratching. Fleas are dealt with in another article in this series and sarcoptic and demodectic mange are also covered elsewhere.

I included a diagram of the flea life cycle here, because over half the cases of allergic skin diseases have fleas – seen or unseen – as the underlying cause. Once you are certain that no fleas or mites are present, it is likely that allergies are the cause of your pet’s scratching. In human beings, allergies are often expressed through the respiratory system. If you yourself have allergies, you are likely to have a stuffy nose, sneezing and watery eyes. This is because the histamines that humans produce are released primarily in the membranes of the respiratory system and eyes. In dogs, histamines are released primarily in the skin.

How Allergies Occur:
All chronic allergies are based on the body recognizing protein substances as foreign and trying to rid itself of them. Mold, dander, bacteria, pollen, flea saliva along with a host of other substances are allergens made up of proteins foreign to the body.
We will talk about pollen allergies for an example because they are so common. In this case pollen is called an allergen – something the body recognizes as foreign. When a pet’s immune system is exposed to pollen for the first time, some pollen attaches to the linings of the nose and lungs . The body’s immune system recognizes that pollen is not supposed to be there and, in response, produces antibodies against the pollen called immunoglobulins of the E class (IgE) and G class (allergen-specific IgG). This process is called sensitization. The IgE attaches to cells in the body called mast cells. These cells then leak and release histamines, bradykinins, and proteolytic enzymes, which cause the symptoms of allergy. In people large numbers of mast cells are located in the respiratory system. That is why our allergies usually have respiratory system symptoms. In dogs and cats, more mast cells are present in the skin. That is why dog and cat allergies usually cause signs associated with the skin and ears such as itching, hives and inflammation. This allergic disease is called atopy. Only 15% of pollen allergies in dogs and cats cause respiratory system signs, such as nasal stuffiness and sneezing.

Types of Allergies:

There are two types of allergies that cause dogs and cats to itch. Because susceptibility to allergies is inherited, it is quite common for pets to have both types.
Canine Inhalant Atopy
This is the type of allergy for which we used pollen as an example. It is the most common form of allergy in dogs and cats, making up over ninety percent of the cases I see. About nine percent of the canine population has this disease. Certain breeds are more susceptible to than others. Among the most susceptible are Shar-peis, Fox Terriers, Golden Retrievers, West Highland White Terriers, Scottish Terriers, Shih Tzus, Dalmatians, Lhasa Apsos, Boston Terriers and Labrador Retrievers. Cats of any breed can be affected. Dogs usually show their first signs of itching between 10 months and 4 years. If a dog does not have this condition by the time it is four years of age it is unlikely that it will ever have atopic skin disease. The disease often begins as a seasonal problem but after a number of years (or moving to a southern climate) the itching occurs year round. Some common allergens are flea saliva, tree, grass and shrub pollens, house dust, mold, dust mites, and feathers.
Flea saliva allergy is a special form of Atopy. Fleas survive by sucking blood from your pets. To get this blood they drill their mouthparts into the dog or cat’s skin and inject special anticoagulant saliva into the site to keep blood flowing while they engorge. This saliva is highly irritating to some dogs and cats. These pets do not only itch at the site of the flea bites, they itch all over. The pads of their feet are often itchy, puffy and inflamed. Areas between the toe pads as well as the ears often become infected with bacteria due to the pets constant licking and chewing. Because of the availability of excellent flea-control products such as Advantage and Frontline, I see less flea allergy than I used to.

Food Allergies:

Food allergy cases are less than fifteen percent as common as canine atopy but occur with about the same frequency as atopy in cats. The itching food allergies produce is constant throughout the year. Cocker Spaniels, West Highland White Terriers and Labrador Retrievers are particularly susceptible to food allergies. However, the majority of these breeds that have itching problems do not have food allergies. Dogs and cats can be any age older that a few months when signs first begin. Some common food allergies in dogs are to beef and pork, fish, dairy, eggs, corn, soy, wheat and preservatives and dyes in food and treats. But almost any diet ingredient can be involved. The most common allergens in cats are to fish, beef and chicken.

Symptoms:

Canine Atopy and food allergies are not visually distinguishable because the signs of both diseases are the same. The most common sign of the conditions is constant itching, scratching and licking. Dogs will often rub on objects. The degree of discomfort the pet undergoes is partly dependent on its temperament. High strung breeds and very active pets do severe damage to their skin. The face, lumbar area at the base of the tail (particularly if fleas are the cause) ears and paws show the most damage. In severe cases the skin of the whole body is inflamed and covered in crusts while the hair coat is thin and broken. In mild cases the pets only lick these areas, discoloring light hair coats with salivary stain. When fleas are the problem, small pepper-like granules are present over the neck or in the dorsolumbar area. These specks of digested blood or flea dirt will “bleed” a rust-colored trail if moved to white tissue paper and wetted with water.

As the dog or cat scratches, it destroys the outer waxy layer of the skin. This allows bacteria and mold to enter the skin and causes a musty, oily skin condition called seborrhea. Because ears are covered with skin, ear canal redness, odor and inflammation are common in canine atopy. Sometimes ear problems are the only sign present. When this is the case, we treat the ears with specific antibiotic, antifungal, corticosteroid preparations but must treat the whole dog with medications as well.

Cats develop a condition called milliary dermatitis in which the surface of the back and scruff of the neck are covered with bumps and scabs. Allergic cats sometimes develop another condition called eosinophilic granuloma complex in which ulcers form on the lips, tongue and surface of the body. After months and years of scratching, the skin of the inner thighs and flank often becomes thickened and blackish. This condition is called acanthosis nigricans.

Damaged skin due to the pets scratching often leads to superficial staphylococcus bacterial infections (pyoderma) and infection with the yeast, Malassezia. Mild bacterial conjunctivitis or eye infections with greenish matter at the inner corner of the eye are common. It is important to realize that although a bacterial or fungus condition is present and may need treatment, the root of the problem is allergic dermatitis. In very severe cases of skin allergy, the superficial lymph nodes of the body enlarge due to secondary skin infections.

Diagnosis of Allergic Skin Problems:

The clinical diagnosis of allergic dermatitis is one of exclusion of other causes of skin disease. I usually do skin scrapings when pets with this condition are presented to me for the first time. Through skin scrapings, I try to rule out mange as a cause of the pet’s problems and locate bacteria and fungi. If I cannot rule out mange, if the dog’s history suggests it might be mange, or other members of the household are itching, I may put the pet on a test dose of a safe anti mange medicine called ivermectin. I next try to rule out fleas as the source of the problem. Some dogs are so good at grooming that no fleas remain on them when they are examined. Even when I cannot locate fleas on the pet I can often locate flea dirt. In some of these pets the presence of tapeworms is the only indication of fleas or I may find fleas on another household pet, which does not have skin problems.

There are other signs that the problem may be allergic. Typically atopy occurs in dogs between one and three years of age. This makes the diagnosis of allergies in puppies and older dogs less likely. The first two or three years that the condition exists it is often seasonal occurring only in the spring and summer months. Flea-related allergies tend to subside after the first few freezes of the winter. Golden retrievers and arctic breeds with thick oily hair are susceptible to a special form of dermatitis called hot spots or acute pyotraumatic dermatitis. In these cases the dogs suddenly become extremely itchy over a small area. They are so troubled that they pull out the fur of this area and infect it through chewing in a matter of hours. The itching sensation departs rapidly thereafter -with or without treatment. It is not known if they represent a true form of allergy. Another form of the disease is called acral lick dermatitis. In these cases a small area of skin itches over an extended period. Licking leads to a well-defined small area of raw skin, scarring and bacterial infection.

I try to learn if the parents of the dog or cat or its brothers and sisters also have itchy skin disease. Canine atopy as well as food allergies runs in families.

In diagnosing food allergies I look for uniform involvement of the skin over the entire body. I rarely find that diarrhea accompanies food allergies. Often the best way to rule out food allergies is to put the pet on a sixty to ninety day trial eating a hypoallergenic diet exclusively. Many hypoallergenic diets are available. Until recently these diets relied on novel protein sources such as lamb, venison duck or fish. The problem is that with time, pets eventually became allergic to these diets too. Now two brands of hypoallergenic diets are available that use heat and hydrolysis to break food proteins into a size too small to cause allergies (less than 10,000 daltons). The biggest problem with these diets is that some pets won’t eat them.

I will usually examine pets with skin disease in a darkened room with an ultraviolet lamp. Hairs that glow are diagnostic for ringworm. Ringworm is almost never itchy and glowing hairs are not found in cases of allergic skin disease.

Il often encounter Malassezia yeast in skin scrapings of dogs with itchy skin. This fungus is a normal inhabits the skin of dogs. It only becomes a problem when the pet has an underlying problem such as allergic skin disease. Antifungal shampoos are quite helpful in controlling it.

Allergy Tests

Rast Test (In-vitro (laboratory) test, performed on your pet’s blood)

As in humans, allergy testing can be helpful in diagnosing allergic skin disease. Two forms of allergy testing are available. The easiest and most commonly performed test in animal hospitals is called the RAST test. This test, which is performed on a blood sample from your pet, stands for radioallergosorbent test. In the test, the presence of IgE antibodies to specific antigens is determined by a central laboratory. Pets must not have had corticosteroids or antihistamines administered for thirty days prior to testing. The problem with this test is its high number of false positives. If the test determines that a pet is not allergic to an antigen – that is probably correct. But positive reactions often turn out to be wrong. If the RAST test is used, the central laboratory will prepare an antigen extract, which can be injected into the pet’s skin periodically to decrease the effects of allergies. The most current research indicates that this test extremely inaccurate in pets and humans. Go with skin tests if at all possible.

Skin Test

A more reliable test is an intradermal skin test. Before the test is administered, the pet is taken off all corticosteroid, tranquilizing or antihistamine medications for 30-60 days. In this test, small amounts of various allergens are injected into the skin. The entire side of the pet must be shaven to perform this test. Then the injection sites are monitored over an hour’s period to judge the degree of redness and swelling at each site. A list of offending antigens is used to prepare an allergen extract, which is injected periodically into the pet. With time and success, these injections lessen the pet’s allergies to these allergens. Because a high degree of skill is necessary in giving and interpreting the results of this test, veterinary dermatologists usually perform it.

Occasionally, when I am uncertain if the problem is a routine case of allergy, I will take a biopsy specimen of the skin involved and send it to a pathologist for evaluation and diagnosis. This can rule out the presence of other disease such as lupus. Blood tests may detect elevated levels of eosinophiles, which occasionally also occur in allergic skin disease.

Treatment of Allergic Skin Disease:

It is next to impossible to avoid all the environmental allergens that plague allergy-prone dogs and cats. The exceptions are pets that are chiefly bothered by fleas. I enforce strict flea control – even if I am uncertain that fleas are present. Many dogs and cats are cured by this simple task alone.

Approximately one in twenty of my clients elect to undergo skin testing and desensitization of their pets. This figure differs from practice to practice. The procedure takes a bit over a year to show results. Dermatologists argue for the procedure pointing out, correctly so, that even if desensitization does not cure the pets, it may lower the dose of corticosteroids they require later in the disease. Skin testing also identifies the allergens and perhaps some of them can be avoided or eliminated from the pet’s environment. The procedure is extensive, expensive, and requires a life-long commitment to frequent injections. Most owners learn to give these injections themselves.

Medicines of the cortisone class are effective and dramatic in controlling the symptoms of allergic skin disease. The problem is that this class of drugs has substantial and serious side effects when given in high doses or over extended periods of time. My challenge is to treat these pets as long as I can without the use of these steroids. To do so, I use medications that are effective but less dramatically so.

Medicated Shampoos.

Medicated shampoos are quite soothing to inflamed skin and lessen itching. I begin using clear tar preparations such as lye tar shampoos. If these are not adequate, I dispense selenium sulfide or benzyl peroxide shampoos. Benzyl peroxide is quite effective in eliminating secondary bacterial infections in these cases. Some pets are helped by oatmeal and antihistamine shampoos. With all these products, the skin should first be cleansed with soapless soaps and then the medicated product massaged in and allowed a long contact period with the skin – the longer the better. Weekly shampooing along with flea control is often sufficient for a number of years. Some pets cannot tolerate weekly bathing as it dries out their skin too much. Use of a skin conditioning rinse helps in some cases. Also, use temperate, not hot water, when you bath your pets.

Antihistamines and tranquilizers

Antihistamines block the release of histamines by mast cells. They are quite helpful to some pets. Unfortunately, the effects are not as dramatic as in humans. Ciproheptadine given twice a day, hydroxyzine or even OTC Chlorpheniramine maleate are effective in lessening symptoms in some dogs and cats. Many antihistamines have a calming effect in dogs. I have had cat owners discontinue their use because they did not like personality changes in their cats while on these medications. Some antihistamines can be applied in shampoo form. Some dogs do well when given mild tranquilizers such as acepromazine at 0.25mg/ pound.

Corticosteroids

Many owners are worried when we suggest that their pets receive measured doses of corticosteroids to treat stubborn allergy cases. They should not be. These drugs have nearly miraculous powers in both human and animal medicine. They just should not be over used. Some drugs of the cortisone class are prednisolone, prednisone, triamcinolone, dexamethasone, beclomethasone, and betamethasone. Often I use so little of these drugs that a bit of itching persists but at a tolerable level. I usually give prednisolone or prednisone two or three times a week. At a low dose I do not encounter noticeable side effects. There will often be a point, many years into the disease, when higher cortisone doses are required. Combining topical medications, antihistamines, desensitization and cortisone let us keep the cortisone dose as low as possible. I do not feel that I have ever used cortisone to an extent that an allergic pets life was shortened although some have suffered weight gain. I do know that the use of these drugs has greatly improved the quality of many pets’ lives. Whenever possible, the use of long acting corticosteroids such as methylprednisolone acetate should be limited to a single yearly injection or oral forms of corticosteroids used instead. You may notice that your pet drinks more and urinates more on these medications. If they are over used a disease called Cushings Syndrome or hyperadrenocorticism can result (see article on that subject).

Antibiotics

Dogs that are presented to me with severe bacterial skin infections subsequent to self- trauma (scratching) need a two-week course of antibiotics to clear up the infection. I like to use a broad-spectrum antibiotic such as one of the fluroquinolones (Batryl) or a potentiated cephalosporin such as Clavamox (Augmentin). I begin antihistamines and medicated shampoos in these cases immediately but I delay any corticosteroids until the skin has healed. If yeasts are an important component of the problem I treat them with ketaconazole shampoos.

Food Supplements

There are a very large number of “neutraceutical” products marketed for allergic skin disease. Many of them have never been scientifically tested. The best that can be said of many of these products is that they can do no harm. When I recommend these products, I usually suggest one that combines omega-3 and omega-6 fatty acids. Many of these products also contain zinc. Some clients find them beneficial.

Distractions

No matter what the underlying cause of itching is in your pet, boredom, inactivity and unoccupied time will make it worse. It is not unusual for the underlying cause of itching to be eliminated by your veterinarian, only to have the pet continue to scratch and lick itself from force of habit. To minimize this, give your pets plenty of distractions. Hidden food morsels, toys and chew toys, walks, play time, other pets, and view through a porch, kennel or window all take your pet’s mind off of its skin. Try these distractions, and others you might think of, before you resort to tranquilizers and mood-altering medications.

Your Pet’s Future:

Allergic dermatitis is a life long condition. Unless the problem is solely fleas there are no cures. Luckily it is not a life threatening or a life shortening condition and it can be managed with a minimum of inconvenience. Often, there will be periods of a year or more when the disease is not as severe and needs less or no medications. When a family moves the disease is often left behind. Unfortunately not too much time passes at their new location before the pet becomes allergic to new allergens. Because this is an inherited trait, pets with this disease should never be bred. The fact that so many pets suffer from allergic skin disease shows that many breeders disregard this advice.

Are You Sure Your Pet Bird Gets All the Nutrients He Needs?

Jan’s 23 year old Huey and Seattle

Female cats can be spayed almost any time from as young as 4 months. DO IT!!!

All pets including cats, dogs and horses are at risk for dehydration, especially in the warm months. Pets at higher risk include older or very young ones, pregnant, nursing or sick animals. Dogs may overdo it when exercising with you and physically drain themselves, leading to a problem. Keep an eye on the animals to prevent it. If you do suspect dehydration, then try these suggestions.

Look for visible signs. These symptoms include sunken eyes, exhaustion or dry mouth.

Visit the vet for a quick blood test to check for dehydration. Do this test especially if your pet was without water for a long period of time.

Test your dog or cat’s skin elasticity. Gently pull the skin near the middle of your pet’s back. If he is dehydrated, then the skin won’t have its usual elasticity. It will “tent”.

Give her some food and see if she’ll eat. Another symptom of dehydration is a loss of appetite.

Check the gums. Expose the gums and press them gently and briefly with your thumb. Blood is forced through the gum and should return to its normal color within 2 seconds. If it does not, then it could be a sign.

Your cat should be resting comfortably on your lap, the floor, or a table. Hold a paw in one hand and press a toe pad gently to extend the claw. Notice the pink tissue (the quick) on the inside of the claw. Avoid the quick when you trim the claw; cutting into it will cause pain and bleeding Remove the sharp tip below the quick (away from the toe), clipping about halfway between the end of the quick and the tip of claw. If your cat becomes impatient, take a break and try again later. Even if you can clip only a claw or two a day, eventually you’ll complete the task. (Because cats do little damage with their rear claws and do a good job of keeping them trim themselves-by chewing them-many cat owners never clip the rear claws. Others trim their cats’ rear claws three or four times a year or have them done by their veterinarian or a professional groomer.)

Many people hold the clippers at right angles to the nail, thus cutting across the nail. This tends to make the nail more subject to splitting or fraying. It is better to hold the clippers in a vertical position–that is, up and down, so that the claw is trimmed from bottom to top instead of across the nail. This position help prevent splitting.

Gently press the cat’s toe pads to reveal sharp claws in need of a trim.

Notice the pink tissue (the quick) on the inside of the claw. Avoid the quick when you trim the claw; cutting into it will cause pain and bleeding Remove the sharp tip below the quick (away from the toe), clipping about halfway between the end of the quick and the tip of claw.

If you accidentally clip into the quick, don’t panic. The claw may bleed for a moment, but it will usually stop very quickly. Soothe your cat by speaking softly to her and stroking her head. If the bleeding hasn’t stopped after a minute or so, touch a styptic pencil to the claw end or pat on styptic powder to help staunch the bleeding.

that is the question

Know the difference… Regurgitation is a favorite pass time for my cats.

Cats can have “non-specific vomiting and/or vomiting and diarrhea… Know you pet..

good article below:

Vomiting is a very common problem in dogs and cats. There are many causes of vomiting. Primary or gastric causes of vomiting are those that are due to diseases of the stomach and upper intestinal tract. Secondary or non-gastric causes of vomiting are caused by diseases of other organs that cause an accumulation  of  toxic substances in the blood. These toxic substances stimulate the vomiting center in the brain causing the animal to vomit.

A problem that can be confused with vomiting is regurgitation. Vomiting is the ejection of contents of the stomach and upper intestine; regurgitation is the ejection of contents of the esophagus. The esophagus is a narrow, muscular tube that food passes through on its way to the stomach. In health, food moves quickly through the esophagus to the stomach. If the muscle of the esophagus loses tone, the esophagus dilates, a condition called megaesophagus. A dilated esophagus does not effectively move food to the stomach and the animal will regurgitate food usually shortly after eating. The food may also be inhaled into the airways causing pneumonia and cough.

When you present your pet to the veterinarian because he or she is vomiting, the veterinarian will ask questions in attempt to differentiate between vomiting and regurgitation and to try to determine if your pet is vomiting due to gastric or non gastric disease. Vomiting is an active process. The pet is apprehensive and heaves and retches to vomit. If food is present in vomit, it is partially digested and a yellow fluid, bile may be present. Regurgitation is fairly passive. The animal  lowers its head and food is expelled without effort.  The food brought up by regurgitation is usually undigested, may have a tubular shape, and is often covered with a slimy mucus. The pet will often try to eat the regurgitated material. You may bring a fresh sample of “vomit” for the veterinarian  to examine. The pH of vomit containing food is acid, the pH of regurgitated materials is higher. Your ability to answer questions about your pet’s activity, habits and environment will help the veterinarian decide which causes of vomiting are most likely in your pet. A history of any drugs your pet is receiving is important. Over-the-counter pain medications such as aspirin and ibuprofen can cause severe stomach ulcers in dogs depending upon the dose and duration of treatment.  The veterinarian may ask you to describe the appearance of the vomit, as well as describe how your pet looks when it vomits and the relation ship of vomiting to eating. If the vomit contains blood it may be fresh, red blood or look like coffee grounds if the blood is digested. Blood is most often seen with stomach ulcers, stomach cancer or uremia (a collection of signs including vomiting seen in pets with kidney failure). Stomach ulcers can be caused by drugs or the presence of a mast cell cancer in the skin. Mast cell cancers release histamine that leads to stomach ulcers. Regurgitation often, but not always, happens right after eating and the pet will try to eat the regurgitated food.  Vomiting occurs a variable time after eating or may occur in a pet who is off food. Animals with a twisted stomach, gastric dilation-torsion, may make frequent attempts to vomit without producing anything. Pets with a hacking cough may retch and sometime vomit at the end of an episode of forceful coughing.  An accurate description in this case would lead to an investigation of the causes of coughing, rather than vomiting.

If your pet vomits just occasionally and has a specific series of actions associated with vomiting, you may consider video taping an episode of vomiting to help describe the episodes to the veterinarian.

The physical examination of the vomiting pet can also provide information to narrow the list of possible causes.  The presence of fever, abdominal pain, jaundice, anemia or abnormal masses in the abdomen will help the veterinarian make a more specific diagnosis. The mouth should be carefully examined as some foreign objects such as string can wind around the base of the tongue with the rest of the object extending into the stomach or small intestine. A nodule may be palpated in the neck of cats with hyperthyroidism.

The list of non-gastric causes of vomiting is long.

Pancreatitis in the dog causes vomiting that is sudden in onset and often severe. The dog may have a painful belly. Pets with pancreatitis often have a  history of eating garbage or fatty table scraps. Tumors of the pancreas can cause similar signs to pancreatitis. Pancreatitis occurs in the cat but the signs are subtle and non specific and often don’t  include vomiting

Kidney failure is a common cause of vomiting in dogs and cats. The kidneys can be acutely (suddenly) damaged by poisons such as antifreeze or by severe dehydration.   Waste products that the kidneys normally get rid of, rise to high levels in just a few days. The kidneys can also gradually lose their ability to remove waste products from the body as the pet ages. Early signs of kidney failure include drinking and urinating large amounts called polyuria and polydipsia or PU-PD. PU-PD may be present for months to years before the kidney failure is severe enough to lead to waste product accumulation and vomiting. Vomiting in chronic kidney failure may began as occasional episodes and progress to severe, frequent vomiting. The pet with chronic kidney failure will often lose body condition and may have pale gums due to anemia.

Non-spayed, middle aged female pets can develop a uterine infection called pyometra. Pyometra occurs within 2 months after a heat cycle and often results in discharge of pus from the vagina. The pet may frequently lick the vagina so discharge may not be seen. Dogs develop pyometra more often than cats. Other signs may include PU-PD and depression.

Liver failure causes vomiting as well as other signs depending on the type of liver disease. Other signs of liver disease may include seizures, jaundice (a yellow discoloration of the areas of skin not covered by fur), PU-PD and fluid accumulation in the belly or legs. Bladder obstruction or rupture will cause a sudden onset of vomiting. The urethra that leads from the bladder to the outside can get plugged by stones or tumors. The animal  will strain and pass just a free drops of urine or none at all. They will also have a painful belly. Bladder obstruction if not corrected, is fatal in just a few days. The bladder can be ruptured by blunt trauma such as being hit by a car or kicked.

A form of diabetes called ketoacidosis will cause vomiting along with depression and PU-PD.

Addison’s disease is a deficiency of hormones from the adrenal gland and causes vomiting, diarrhea and weakness. Addison’s disease occurs most commonly in young to middle aged dogs, most of which are female. Addison’s is rare in the cat.  The signs of Addison’s disease may be intermittent or may be very severe and constant.

Diseases of the inner ear can cause vomiting accompanied by incoordination, circling and tilting of the head to the side. Motion during car rides stimulates the inner ear and can cause vomiting.

A sudden onset of vomiting in young, poorly vaccinated pets may be caused by infectious agents including canine distemper, canine parvovirus and feline panleukopenia virus.

There are many toxins including lead, insecticides, antifreeze and other chemicals that can cause vomiting.

Cats with elevated thyroid function, hyperthyroidism, may vomit in addition to other signs including, increased appetite, weight loss, hyperactivity and a poorly kept coat. Heartworm disease in cats may cause vomiting in addition to coughing, respiratory distress, weight loss and depression.

Primary causes of vomiting include acute gastritis often due to eating garbage or other types of dietary indiscretions; the ingestion of large amounts of hair during grooming; ulcers of the stomach; stomach or upper intestinal cancer; parasites; food allergies; the presence of a foreign body stuck in the stomach or upper intestine; twisting and dilation of the stomach; and intussusception which is a telescoping of one part of the intestine into another piece of intestine.

The stomach is usually empty 6 to 8 hours after eating. Vomiting of  food when the stomach should be empty suggests an obstruction of the stomach or abnormal motion of the stomach muscles that normally grind food and push the ground food out of the stomach.

Tests to differentiate primary causes of vomiting include x-rays or ultrasound of the abdomen and endoscopy. Endoscopy is the technique of passing a flexible scope into the stomach and upper intestine to examine the inside of these structures. It may be possible to remove a foreign body with endoscopy and small biopsies of the lining of the stomach and intestine can be taken for microscopic evaluation. Endoscopy requires general anesthesia.

If the pet vomits sporadically, the results of all tests may be normal. Many healthy dogs and cats vomit occasionally without identifying a cause. Sometimes the cause of vomiting is as simple as the pet eating too fast.  The treatment for vomiting depends upon the cause. Nonspecific treatment for vomiting includes fasting, and fluids to correct or prevent dehydration.  In episodes of sudden onset of vomiting,  food is withheld for 24 – 48 hours and water for 24 hours. Water should never be withheld from an animal with known or suspected kidney disease without replacing fluids intravenously or subcutaneously (under the skin). If vomiting stops, small amounts of a bland low-fat food are fed 3 to 6 times daily for a few days, with a gradual increase in the amount fed and a gradual transition to the pet’s normal diet. Water is also reintroduced in small amounts on the second day. You may start with  ice cubes and then gradually increase the amount of water over the day if vomiting does not reoccur.

If the pet is bright and alert and has had no previous health problems, episodes of acute vomiting  may be managed at home, although veterinary consultation prior to home treatment is advised.  Consultation with a veterinarian in your region may reveal a recent outbreak of an infectious disease causing vomiting or identify  a cluster of recent poisonings. With this type of knowledge you will want to have your pet evaluated rather than waiting a few days. Dogs and cats who vomit for longer than a few days or are depressed or dehydrated should be presented for veterinary evaluation.

Raising kittens

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2 weeks old kittens

Warmth first:
Kittens depend on their mother to keep them warm because they can’t maintain their own body temperature.
Chilling is the greatest single threat to a neonatal kitten’s survival. If the kitten is cold to the touch hypothermia has already set in. This means your kitten’s body temperature is dangerously low and her condition is critical!

Use your body first. Your own body provides the best immediate insulation. (Do not put kittens that display defensive behavior next to your skin- have a layer of clothes between you and the kitten).

Massage in the warmth. Gently massage the kitten’s body to stimulate circulation.

Wrap a towel around a hot water bottle or bottles of warm water- place it close to the kitten.

Never feed a chilled kitten any type of milk replacement formula or anything else. This can prove fatal! To stabilize a kitten as you warm him, try rubbing .01 cc (a thin layer on your finger tip) of light corn syrup, or a solution of equal parts sugar and water on his gums.

Place the kitten/kittens in a quiet place in a clean draft free area – the area should be large enough for the kittens to move around freely.

It is best to use a heating pad made for specially for pets, but if you must use a regular heating pad, set it on the lowest temperature, be sure to cover the heating pad well with a towel making sure the kitten cannot crawl under it and come into direct contact with the pad. The kittens must be able to move away from the heat, so be sure it covers only part of their bed. Check the kittens frequently.

During the first week of life the kitten area should be kept at 86 – 90 degrees and lowered five degrees a week until 75 degrees is reached. Use a thermometer to check the temperature of heating pad.

Keep it clean:

You’ll want to keep the kitten’s environment as clean as possible. Unweaned kittens can generate amazing messes in a short time by relieving themselves in their bed. Do not use strong disinfectants or detergents. Wash with 1 part bleach to 32 part water. Be sure to keep the kittens area dry.

Dehydration:
Kittens can easily become dehydrated due to lack of mother’s milk, hypothermia, or prolonged vomiting or diarrhea. To detect whether a kitten is dehydrated gently pick up a fold of skin along the kitten’s back (the scruff). The skin should quickly pop back into place. If the skin stays put dehydration has occurred.
A dehydrated kitten requires quick help. An electrolyte solution made for human babies and sold at most grocery stores is a good first line of defense for mildly dehydrated kittens. You can give your kitten 1cc of the electrolyte solution (slightly warmed and tested on your wrist) 3 times a day to help maintain electrolyte balance.
Severe dehydration is a veterinary emergency. Signs include sunken eyes, lack of skin elasticity determined by the skin fold test described above, dry mouth, exhaustion or lethargy.

Record:
Chart the kitten’s initial weight, taking notes on kitten’s general appearance, and accurately recording the feeding schedule with the time and amount of formula given.
To safely weigh kittens at home use a kitchen baking scale that contains a large capacity bowl.

Average weight for kittens:

Age (days)________Weight
1 2 ½ to 4 ¾ oz
5 3 to 7 oz
10 4 ½ to 9 ¾ oz
15 6 to 11 ¾ oz
20 7 ½ to 14 ½ oz
25 8 to 16 ¾ oz
Reprinted courtesy of Alley Cat Allies

The most important thing to note is that each kitten is gaining some amount of weight every single day.

Stages of Growth:
First week- kittens are virtually helpless at birth. Tiny and wet, they generally weigh in between 3-4 oz and are less then 6 inches long. Their eyes are closed and ears folded over. They are deaf and blind at birth. During the first week their sense of smell, hearing and taste begin to take shape. They can’t urinate or defecate on their own.
At this time they spend 90% of their time sleeping and the other 10% nursing. They can call out in distress and purr.

Second week- The kitten’s eyes begin to open (they are blue) and focus a bit. The ears also begin to open and stand up. They begin to crawl and snuggle in their nest. They are unable to retract their tiny claws, but knead enthusiastically.

Third week- Their eyesight improves. Those important first steps take place in the form of wobbly movements. They begin to cut baby teeth. True eye color appears. They begin to notice the world around them – full of sights, sounds and siblings.

Fourth week- by now they’re busy exploring their environment, playing with litter mates (if they don’t have litter mates, you need to be their litter mate and play with them a lot!) be careful not to teach them to play roughly with your hands- it’s cute at this age, but will not be so cute when they are adults biting your hand. They learn how to dig; they roll over and get back up. They begin lapping and go to the bathroom without help. Litter box training begins.

Fifth week- vigorous kitten play, including hiding, stalking, and pouncing. Baby teeth are in. Individual personalities emerge. The process of learning to nibble solid food continues.

Sixth week- their balance has improved. They learn to negotiate their territory, trotting and running in a smoother fashion. They’re more playful and begin to use their nails to climb (your legs) and they thrive on physical and mental stimulation.

Boy or Girl:
To determine the sex of you kitten, gently lift their tails and take a peek. Keep English punctuation in mind. The anus, testes and penis will resemble an exclamation point on males. Females will exhibit an anus and vulva that looks remarkably like a colon.

Feed Me:
Cow’s milk should never be given to kittens. It’s a poor substitute for a mother cat’s milk. The lactose level is too high and the fat and protein level are too low for kittens.
Even worse it causes diarrhea which can quickly dehydrate kittens.

Always use premixed formulas made specifically for kittens.

General feeding:
Kittens age Average Amount of Number of
(Weeks) weight formula per day feedings daily

1 4 oz 32 cc 6

2 7 oz 56 cc 4

3 10 oz 80 cc 3

4 13 oz 104 cc 3

5 1lb 128 cc 3

This is the average, but this is only a guideline and you will need to monitor your kitten to be sure it is gaining weight. It is important to not over feed or under feed your kitten.
Over feeding can cause diarrhea. One way to tell if you are overfeeding is the kittens will have appearance of grayish stool. On the other hand, a kitten that is not fed enough will cry continuously and appear restless, then listless. Under feeding will result in the kitten becoming dehydrated and chilled. Keep in mind a kitten’s milk intake is limited to her small stomach. The stomach should feel full but not swollen after she is fed.

A kitten requires about 8 cc’s of formula per ounce of body weight a day, divided among feedings. Follow the general feeding guide, but realize that each kitten is an individual and feeding is not an exact science. Healthy kittens let you know when they want to be fed and will often let you know they are full by releasing the nipple. If your kitten wake up and cries, she is probably hungry.

Bottle Feeding:
Kittens that are strong enough to suck vigorously on your finger should be bottle fed. Be sure to make the hole in the nipple big enough that kitten milk can go through, but not so large it runs out too quickly risking aspiration (milk in kitten’s lungs)

Be sure to sterilize all utensils before each feeding and warmth the formula to no more than 100 degrees F – test the formula on your wrist, it should feel warm not hot. Make sure the formula has no hot spots if you use the microwave.
To bottle feed kittens visualize the kitten’s natural position if she were nursing from her mom. Place the kitten stomach down on a towel it can cling to at roughly a 45 degree angle. Squeeze a drop of milk on the tip of the nipple, gently open her mouth and slip the nipple between her jaws. The angle helps prevent air from entering the stomach.
Never hold the kitten in the air or on her back while feeding. Never force feed your kitten or squeeze the bottle. Let the kitten suck on her own and sit back and relax. You and your kitten will catch on quickly! When you kitten is full, her tummy will be slightly rounded and bubbles will form around her moth. Just like young human babies, kittens must be burped after each feeding. Hold your kitten upright on against your shoulder. Pat and rub her gently on her back.

If your kitten appears to choke during a feeding or you notice formula coming out of his nose, don’t panic. The kitten may have aspirated some formula into his lungs. Immediately and gently hold the kitten upside down until the choking or coughing subsides. Tip: Make sure the hole in the nipple is not too large.

Stimulation means elimination
kittens younger then 3 weeks of age cannot eliminate on their own, they need your help. A mother cat normally licks the kitten’s genital and anal areas to stimulate them to urinate and defecate. You can do this after feeding and burping your kitten, take a cotton ball and moisten with warm water and gently rub over stomach and bottom. This action mimics the mom’s licking and will stimulate the kitten to relieve themselves. You will need to do this after every meal.

Wash after every meal
Tiny kittens are irresistibly cute, but they are also very messy. Like the mother cat you will want to clean them up after meals or after they eliminate. Don’t immerse a kitten in water this can cause respiratory problems. Instead, wash her with a warm, damp washcloth using short, gentle strokes; this mimics the moms licking her baby clean. Get them as dry as possible and then leave them in a warm, draft-free area until you are sure they are completely dry. Never allow your kitten to become chilled.

Weaning your kitten
the first thing to learn about weaning is that kittens do not always stick to the schedule we plan for them. Weaning has a lot more to do with the kitten’s readiness to be weaned than our desire to hurry the process along.

When your kitten reaches 4 weeks (occasionally earlier) start putting the formula in a shallow bowl or pan. Neatness doesn’t count, so be prepared for some wildly messy moments as your preschoolers learn to eat from a pan and not in it. At this time also, start leaving out fresh water in shallow dishes. From this point on fresh water should be available at all times.

Continue to keep your kittens as clean and dry as possible. Like a mother cat you will teach your kitten to clean their fur and groom themselves. The old adage about cleanliness being nest to godliness will prevent a host of skin problems.

Begin to add solid foods gradually. Use a high quality canned food designed specifically for kittens. Smear some on their lips or touch a finger to the mixture and put it in the kitten’s mouth. This is also when to leave dry kitten food out in a bowl. Be patient with the dry food; remember it takes time for the young kittens to become strong enough to chew dry kitten food. Weaning should not be finished until the kitten is 6 weeks or older.

Litter box time
At approximately 4 weeks your kitten is ready for litter box training. Her first litter box should allow for easy access- a small litter box or pie tin with a shallow layer of litter works well. Place the kitten in the litter and scratch the paws in it. This should be enough, but if necessary you should put a bit of their own stool in the box so they know what to do. They usually figure this out quickly. Use only clay litter or another non-clumping alternative (like Yesterdays News made from recycled paper) for safety sake. If they ingest it, they could end up with an obstruction. If it sticks to their nose it could impede their ability to breath.

Socializing
The kittens need to be handled a lot in order to be easy to handle adults. It is crucial they be given lots of attention, play time, cuddling. This is also a good time to get them used to having their nails trimmed. Place them on their back holding them like a baby. The more they are handled as kittens the more accepting of this they will be as adults. It is also important for them to be around noises, such as t. v., radio, people talking and so on.

(thank you Casa de los Gatos)

Read this before you need it!

HOW TO GIVE YOU DOG CPR

Cardio-Pulmonary Resuscitation, or CPR, as it is called, is a version of artificial respiration that includes assisting the HEART to BEAT. The purpose of CPR is to keep oxygen moving to the lungs and blood circulating throughout the body. The directions contained here APPLY TO DOGS. While these instructions may be good in an emergency, it is wise to check with your VET to establish the procedure that is best for your DOG.

If your DOG is NOT breathing use a finger to clear any mucus or other objects from the mouth. TILT the head back to straighten the airway passage.

Hold the mouth shut with one hand, and place your mouth over the DOG’S nose and mouth making sure the seal is tight.

Blow into the nose while watching to see if the chest expands.

If the chest DOES NOT EXPAND start over again by clearing the mouth. If the chest DOES EXPAND release your DOG’S mouth so it can exhale.

Repeat the breathing procedure once every five (5) seconds until your DOG is breathing normally, or until your Vet or other Emergency technician is available to begin treatment.

PUT your DOG on its right side. PUT the heel of your hand on the ribcage just behind the elbow. PUT your other hand on top of the first hand.

Firmly press on the ribcage in quick, smooth movements. Depending on the size of your DOG press down 3-4 inches using both hands. The compression should last no longer than 1/2 second. The smaller the DOG the fewer inches of compression and less force are needed. At all times try not to damage the ribcage.

Repeat this procedure a total of 10 times.

Then, if your DOG is not breathing, perform CPR as described above.

Alternate between the chest compressions (10 in a row), and one breath into the DOG’S nose.

First.. take away sliding plastc bowels from dogs and cats.. they can be part of the chin acne…

Treat it early yourself? Strident pads and NEOSPORIN creme, often..

AND….

Feline acne is a condition in which comedones (blackheads) develop on the chin of a cat.

What causes feline acne?

The exact cause of feline acne is not known, but several factors appear to be associated with its development including stress, a suppressed immune system, poor grooming habits, the presence of other diseases, contact or atopic dermatitis, and skin conditions in which abnormal amounts of oils are produced and the hair follicles do not function properly.

What are the signs of feline acne?

Multiple comedones form on the chin and lips of the cat, and the chin may appear “dirty.” The comedones can develop into small abscesses, which break open and form crusts. In severe cases, draining tracts, hair loss, and swelling may develop on the chin. It may be itchy and cause the cat to scratch, which can lead to even more trauma to the area. Secondary bacterial infections can develop. The condition may appear only once in the life of a cat, it may come and go, or may remain for the life of the cat. In Persian cats, the condition may also affect the face and skin folds.

Feline acne occurs equally in male and female cats, and in cats of all ages and breeds.

How is feline acne diagnosed?

Skin scrapings may be performed to rule out other causes of similar lesions such as demodicosis, Malassezia (yeast) infections, allergies, ringworm, and a condition called eosinophilic granuloma complex. A skin biopsy may also be performed to rule out these conditions. A culture and sensitivity may be performed if a secondary bacterial infection is suspected.

How is feline acne treated?

Feline acne can be controlled, but is not really “cured.” Very mild cases of feline acne in which there are no symptoms may not be treated. In other cases, antiseborrheic shampoos, such as those containing benzoyl peroxide (at a concentration of 3% or less), or benzoyl peroxide gels are used to break down the excess oils. Supplementation with fatty acids may be beneficial. Oral or topical antibiotics, such as mupirocin, may be used if there is a secondary bacterial infection. If there is a large amount of inflammation, a short course of corticosteroids, such as prednisolone may be given.

Any underlying conditions such as ringworm, a Demodex infestation, or a yeast infection should be treated appropriately.

It may be helpful to switch food and water dishes to a stainless steel or glass variety in the event an allergic reaction may be a contributing factor (cats can be allergic to plastics and dyes). Using a very shallow dish can also be helpful. Owners should regularly clean the chins of cats who are prone to the development of feline acne and/or have poor grooming habits.

ALSO studtail.. click the link

I use my thumb nail to know of the tartar build up.

Using the pet tooth paste and the finger brush or gauze, helps to clean teeth.

How to clean your pet’s teeth

Something I copied from the web.. looks good…

1. If you have a kitten, or you have never tried to get to your cat’s teeth, begin by using you finger dipped in something they love!. Try tuna water; cats love this! Use this training tool for four days by putting the treat (the tuna water) on your finger and open your pet’s mouth and rub it all around. As the cat gets used to having your fingers around his mouth, praise him a lot.
2. Now move to a piece of gauze wrapped around your finger; now they are going to get used to a bulkier finger. Be sure to keep the sessions short, never more than three to five minutes at a time. Be sure you are working the tips of the gum line and the teeth. You can do this several times a day when first trying to train your cat, but I would suggest no more than three times, and spread them apart by several hours.
3. Now it is time to find toothpaste your cat will like. This is trial and error but they now make several flavor choices to choose from like chicken, beef and fish. They are all safe for your cat, and the best part of the whole process is that while you still have to brush his teeth, you don’t have to try to get your cat to rinse. You will still be using a finger wrapped with gauze at this point. Put the toothpaste on the gauze and brush the gums and teeth. Once they are used to this, you are ready for the next step.
4. It is time to get the toothbrush. Here too, there are many styles on the market. You can find anything from a plastic glove with finger brushes on the thumb and forefinger (my personal favorite), to a regular toothbrush, to a toothbrush you can put on your finger. If you find that you receive too much resistance from trying to brush your cat’s teeth with a brush, you can use a clean piece of gauze to apply the toothpaste.
5. Remember to brush the teeth well.