Great idea..

http://www.findtoto.com/.. calls all your neighbors

http://thecenterforlostpets.com/

http://www.fidofinder.com/

re-print: Benedict Canyon Newsletter
by Jan Marlyn Reesman
The canyon is filled with “LOST PET” signs. We all know many of these missing small dogs and cats may never show up again. The fate of “the canyon”. However you should not stop searching. Cats have been found weeks after they go missing. Since the conception of the micro-chip, dogs have been returned home long after their replacement has arrived.
When a pet goes missing it is vital to act fast and to never stop the search. Grab a powerful flashlight even during daylight hours, we learned this from watching “CSI”. Search dark spaces. A frightened or injured cat will hide in dark spaces and will not come to you when called. An injured dog may also.

Immediately search your property thoroughly. Small dogs and cats can get into some incredibly strange places. Look in EVERY nook and cranny. Don’t assume that your pet would never crawl into a tiny space. Especially cats.. felines are a curious group. Look behind, under, and inside washing machines, clothes dryers, stoves, refrigerators, dishwashers, bookcases, behind water heaters, under furniture, under beds, in closets, in cabinets, in drain pipes, in sewer drains, in culvert pipes, under vehicles, under the hood of your car, in crawl spaces under the house, inside sheds and barns, etc. In the case of cats, also look in attic crawl spaces, on the roof, in roof gutters, and up in the trees.

Make some noise while you walk around the neighborhood! Animals can hear you from great distances. If your pet has a favorite “squeaky toy” bring it along and use it to help you make familiar noises. It’s also important to stop regularly, be quiet, and listen for your pet to make a noise in reply. Especially at dawn and dusk.

Place strong-scented articles outside your home to attract your pet. Leaving the pets bed, a piece of your clothes or personal blanket. They will help to give the pet an anchor to stay near or on if he or she is lost when you are away from home or if you have to leave the last area where you saw your pet.

Put flyers everywhere. It is extremely important to post MANY flyers within at least a 1-mile radius of where it was lost. DO NOT PUT YOUR NAME OR ADDRESS ON YOUR FLYER! List the date and place your pet was lost, breed of dog or cat, sex, age, weight, color, markings, and your telephone number. Offer a reward, but don’t state the amount. It is very important to always withhold several identifying marks and characteristics of your lost pet. Beware of the scammer. Post the flyers at waist level on telephone poles and at eye level in such places as veterinary offices, pet shops, beauty shops, grocery stores, community bulletin boards, churches, pizza parlors, convenience stores, near schools, and on school bulletin boards, on windshields, in mailboxes, fire stations, Starbucks, food trucks and construction worksites. Examine your posted flyers frequently and replace the ones that are missing or damaged.

Walk the neighborhood and talk to everybody. Go to each house in the area where your pet was lost and talk to the residents; give them your flyer. If no one is home, leave the flyer attached to his or her door, don’t forget to bring tape. Talk to everybody you run across ie, neighborhood children and parents waiting at the school bus stop.
This also includes the paperboys, school crossing guards, neighborhood crime watch groups, garbage pick-up crews, postal workers, sanitation workers, construction workers, etc. Give them your flyer.
Place an ad in your local newspaper. Some will do this for free. Be sure to advertise in the Sunday edition as well as during the week. Also place an ad in any “Penny Saver” type of publications. Check the newspaper “found” ads every day. Also check online “Lost and Found”. Most newspapers provide free ads to people who have found lost pets.

Call local veterinarian offices during the day. After 5 PM, call veterinarian emergency clinics. If an office has taken in or treated any animal that even remotely resembles your pet, VISIT THE OFFICE IN PERSON. Your description of your pet and their description of the same pet rarely match. YOU MUST GO SEE FOR YOURSELF!

Get phone numbers of local rescue organizations. The free Pet Press (at the library and pets stores) has current lists. Call each of the rescue organizations and ask for their help and find out if they have your pet. These groups generally network with each other and will pass the word about your case. VISIT your local Animal Control, humane societies, and animal shelters, including the ones in surrounding areas. You must actually visit the animal control and humane shelters every day or two. It works well if several family members can take turns visiting the shelters. Be sure to check all areas of the shelter, including the infirmary. Also be aware that dogs may be housed in the cat section and vice-versa.

Leave a picture of your pet and your phone number at each shelter, befriend them. Find out the holding period of each animal control and humane shelter. Be aware of how much time you have to claim your pet before it is euthanized!

Check shelters out of your area in person and online. A Good Samaritan may have taken your pet in only to have it escape a week or more later.

Don’t ever give up! Pets have been known to find their way back home after being lost for several months.

PREVENTION: Get your pet Micro-chipped, keep tags current.

Keep pet tags current and check that they are still in place and legible. A good idea is to write your phone number directly onto the collar. I do not remove my dog’s collar even when she is being bathed. I have heard the excuse that the lost pet was not wearing a collar and id because they were just bathed.

Your tag should have more then one phone number, your home number, cell, your vet etc.. I keep two collars and tags on my dogs as well as a microchip.

Get an “Acme Dog Whistle”. Blow the whistle whenever you feed or give treats to your pet. Leave the whistle next to the treats so that you will remember to use it, this really works. The high-pitched sound from these whistles can carry up to a mile or more. Cats are attracted to this sound as well as dogs. (It is also a great way to teach a pet the “come command”.)

Keep fence gates closed securely. Self closing gates area good idea. Always transport a cat in a carrier. Never take your cat to the Vet or anywhere else unless it is secured. A hand carried cat can bolt and hide if frightened by loud noises. When a cat is frightened in strange surroundings, especially with traffic noise around, it will hide and will not come to you.

If you have a dog who is an escape artist, try leaving a piece of broken leash hanging front their collar so that it will appear that the dog broken lose as opposed to being out for a walk.

NEVER, NEVER leave a choke collar on a dog when it is not attached to a leash. It will eventually become a HANGMAN’S NOOSE!

Have current photos of your pet.

A pillowcase is a quick way to transport cats or injured small animal.
As a final point, spay or neuter your pets! Both males and females will be much less likely to wander if “fixed.”
One of many online resources: http://www.laanimalservices.com/LostServices.htm

Jan Marlyn Reesman was a licensed heath technician and animal behaviorist. Partial name-dropping client list: Whoopi Golberg, Calvin Klein, Billy Crystal, James Caan, Dyane Cannon, Barry Diller, Sandy Gallin, Gabe Kaplan, Frank Wells, Barbara Benedek, Frank Mariani, Richard Dreyfuss, Hal Linden, Jack Warner Estate dogs and John Ritter.

I love my cats because I love my home, and little by little they become its visible soul.’
~Jean Couteau

GIVE IT A FEW WEEKS.. they do come around.. keep cat in a small space like a bathroom so you will see them often and they can’t hide… of course there is always the adult cat that just takes over from day one.

good info below:
If you are adopting an adult cat, you should be aware that it will take time for him to feel secure in his new environment. Be patient as he will come around eventually and you can reap the rewards of having an adult cat, and you will have bypassed most of the training.

If you have acquired an adult cat, transport him home in a carrier, where he will be safe and secure. Do not be tempted to let him loose in the car. He will most likely be fearful and could scratch or bite you while he is trying to hide.

Once home, do not turn him loose in the house. Your primary concern in to ensure that he has a safe refuge away from people and other pets. Unlike a kitten, he will not cry for his siblings, but he will probably seek out a hiding place in his room.

Provide him with water and food dishes and a litter pan in his room. If he hides under a piece of furniture, place a cat bed or small blanket there for his comfort. He will not use a pillow or cat bed in the open until he feels secure.

Cats do not like changes. They especially dislike moving to a new house or being confronted with any new furniture in their old one. So your adult cat has a double burden to contend with because he has lost both his old home and his old furnishing.

There is no yardstick by which you can measure how long it will take for your cat to feel comfortable. Some will come around within a few days and others may take weeks or even months. Patience is the key to helping him adjust.

Avoid talking loudly and do not make sudden movements. Cats dislike noise and raised voices almost as much as they dislike a new house. Do not pick him up against his will and do not force him to come out of hiding. This will frighten him and he may not be able to trust you again.

As long as he is easting food, drinking water and using his litter pan, you have won half the battle. If he is too afraid to come to you, try sitting quietly on the floor and talking softly to him.

FAQs

Frequently Asked Questions

What is a feral cat?

Feral cats are outdoor, free-roaming cats who have never been socialized to humans and are living in a “wild” state. This could be a formerly domestic cat who has been abandoned and has reverted back to a “wild” state, or a cat who has been born on the streets and has never had any contact or interaction with humans. Feral cats look like regular domestic house-cats, but because they have never been socialized, they are very fearful and distrustful of humans. Some arch their backs and hiss and show aggression, others just avoid eye contact and run. With true ferals, you can’t pick them up or handle them. Very often you can’t even get close to them. They are the un-owned cats or “community cats.”

What is a stray cat?

Stray cats are former pets or companion cats who have been abandoned or “strayed” from home and become lost. Stray cats are generally tame and handleable. These cats used to be cared for by an owner, but are now trying to survive on their own on the streets. Stray cats can be handled and held, although they still may be skittish or frightened and run away from people. Generally, though, stray cats exhibit similar temperaments as pet cats and can be rescued off the streets and adopted into homes again.

What is a tame cat?

A tame cat is a friendly, domesticated cat. “Tame” refers to the disposition of the cat. Tame cats can either be someone’s pet or companion, or they can be a friendly stray cat making his/her way on the street. Tame cats can generally be picked up, held, touched, and are used to being around or living with people.

What is TNR and what does it stand for?

TNR stands for Trap-Neuter-Return. Trap-Neuter-Return is a community-based program. It involves concerned citizens like you trapping feral, free-roaming cats in your neighborhood, bringing them to a clinic like FixNation to get them spayed or neutered, and then returning the cats to the exact spot where you trapped them so they can live out the rest of their natural lives.

Why does TNR work?

Spaying and neutering the cats will end the cycles of homeless kittens being born so the population stabilizes, and over time it reduces naturally. Once the cats are fixed, the problematic behaviors of howling, cat fighting and spraying also subside. Trap-Neuter-Return is the only humane way to effectively reduce the feral cat population, so that people and cats can peacefully co-exist.

Can’t I just trap the cats and remove them?

Trap and remove does not work. Cats are there in the environment because of two main reasons: 1) there is a food source (intended or not) and 2) there is some sort of shelter. When cats are removed from a location, the surrounding cats breed rapidly to fill in the gap, plus new cats move in to take advantage of the natural food and shelter. This “vacuum effect “is well documented. Trapping and removing cats often results in you having even more unsterilized cats than when you started. Apart from being ineffective, trapping and killing is inhumane and very costly to taxpayers. Trap-Neuter-Return is the only proven solution. TNR stops the cycle of kittens and caps the population growth, so that the population will naturally be reduced over time.

What if I take the feral cats to the shelter? Can the shelter find homes for them?

If you take feral cats or feral kittens to the shelter, the shelter will euthanize them. Feral cats have never been socialized to humans so they are deemed “unadoptable” by the shelter and they are not even shown to the public. They are held for the mandatory state holding period of three days and then killed. Even supposedly no-kill shelters are not able to place feral cats in homes and the cats are killed.

I feel bad for the feral cat. Can I just keep it as a pet?

Feral or “wild” cats are not pets. Feral cats already have a home… outside. Feral cats are very fearful and distrustful of humans and therefore un-adoptable. Confining them in a home is like keeping them in captivity for life. Feral cats live outdoors just like other wildlife.

Feral kittens can often be adopted into homes, but only if they are socialized at an early age. Generally kittens up to around 12 weeks of age can be tamed relatively easily. However, the older the kittens get, the harder it is to tame them. Whether you can tame them or not also depends on the temperament of the kitten; some are more gentle and friendly than others. There is a critical window of time in which kittens must be socialized, and if they aren’t handled in time, they will remain feral and therefore unadoptable.

Stray cats, however, can be taken into homes as pets. Remember, stray cats used to be someone’s pet and were either abandoned or they “strayed” from home and became lost. These are cats who are used to being in homes and are struggling to survive on the street. Tame, friendly stray cats can and should be picked up off the street and adopted into homes again.

I’m way too busy to trap. What happens if I just ignore the cats?

If you ignore the cats, they will continue to breed prolifically. Cats can start having litters when they’re only five months old, and they can have 3-4 litters a year, usually of 5-6 kittens per litter. If you just ignore the situation, in a short time you can easily go from three or four cats to 30+. Trap-Neuter-Return is the only solution to control the population growth. Start TNR’ing now before the problem gets out of control.

What is FixNation’s free feral program?

FixNation offers free spay/neuter services for homeless, stray and feral cats. Under our free feral program, all homeless cats who will be “eartipped” for identification purposes will receive the following free services at the time of surgery: Spay/neuter, rabies vaccine, feline distemper (FVRCP) vaccine, flea treatment, de-worming, fluids, antibioitic and pain medication.

What is an eartip? Why do I need to eartip a feral cat?

Eartipping is the universal symbol to identify that an outdoor or free-roaming cat has been fixed. This involves clipping off, or “tipping” the upper 1 centimeter of the cat’s right ear so that it’s straight across instead of coming up into a point. This is done while the cat is under anesthesia, is relatively painless for the cat, and it does not significantly alter the appearance or beauty of the cat. (See photo below.) Since feral cats are wild, you cannot get close enough to them or pick them up to tell if they have been fixed before. The eartip allows you to recognize at a distance whether the cat has been fixed. It is a sign to your neighbors, other trappers and caregivers in the area, and even to Animal Control that the cat has been fixed.

Eartip example

I have feral cats in my neighborhood that I would like to get fixed. Where do I start? What do I need to do?

Before you can come to our clinic, we first require an application. You can download our application from our website. You will find both our Feral Cat Application and our Tame Cat Application on our homepage in the lower right-hand box under our Forms & Resources section. You can complete whichever application is most appropriate to your situation. When you’re done, you can either email it back to us, fax it to us or mail it in. Our fax number, email and physical address are all listed on the top of the application form.

Once we receive your application back, a staff member will call you within 48-72 hours to get you started, loan you humane traps if need be, and get you scheduled for initial reservations. Reservations must be made in advance. Please do not bring cats to our clinic without a confirmed reservation, as you will be turned away.

I want to get my own pet cat fixed, but I can’t afford to. Can you help me?

FixNation will provide free spay/neuter services for any cat, regardless of your income qualifications, provided that the cat gets eartipped. Under our free feral program, all homeless cats who will be “eartipped” for identification purposes will receive the following free services at the time of surgery: Spay/neuter, rabies vaccine, feline distemper (FVRCP) vaccine, flea treatment, de-worming, fluids, antibioitic and pain medication. We can do a small eartip on request, particularly if the cat is your own companion cat, a stray cat who you rescued and are trying to find a home for, or for any kittens who you rescued who you are trying to tame down and adopt out.

What if I don’t want to eartip the cat?

For any tame, companion cats or rescued kittens who are not getting eartipped, we do offer spay/neuter services at reduced rates. The cost of a female spay is $55 and a male neuter is $40 (as of 1/1/10). We also offer vaccines and flea treatment for tame cats for an additional cost and only at the time the cat is here for spay/neuter surgery. If you live in the city of Los Angeles, you may qualify for a city spay/neuter voucher good for $30 off the price of the surgery (or $70 off for low-income families). City vouchers can be picked up at any city animal shelter provided they have some available.

What if the cat is pregnant?

It is safe to spay your cat even if she is pregnant. The pregnancy will be humanely aborted. While later term pregnancies pose a slightly higher surgical risk, our veterinarians are highly experienced and it is safe to spay your cat at any point during the pregnancy.

This female cat just had kittens. When should I get her spayed?

We request that you wait until the kittens are 5 weeks old before you trap and bring in the mom. Kittens under 5 weeks need their mother since they have to nurse every couple of hours. They also require their mom to be able to keep warm, since they can’t hold in body heat on their own yet. The kittens also can’t go to the bathroom on their own yet; the mother has to stimulate them to go. After 5 weeks of age, kittens can go a slightly longer time without their mother and they are able to eat wet food and go to the bathroom on their own.

After the spay, can the mother cat still nurse her kittens? Is it safe for the kittens?

Yes, the mother cat can still safely nurse her kittens after the spay surgery. She will continue to produce milk, and nursing won’t interfere with her ability to heal post-surgery. It is also safe for the kittens to nurse and the spay won’t interfere with the milk production at all.

from: Feral Cat Alliance

Though feral cats are members of the domestic cat species and are protected under state anti-cruelty laws, they are typically fearful of humans. Feral cats should not be taken to animal control pounds and shelters. Feral cats’ needs are not met by the current animal control and shelter system, because animals who are not adoptable are killed.

Feral cats live outside, but are killed in shelters. Even no-kill shelters are not able to place feral cats in homes. Learn more about the animal control system. Feral kittens can be adopted. Feral kittens can often be adopted into homes, but they must be socialized at an early age.

There is a critical window, and if they aren’t handled in time, they will remain feral and therefore unadoptable. Learn more about kittens and socialization. Feral cats can have the same lifespan as pet cats. And they are just as healthy, too. The incidence of disease in feral cats is just as low as in pet cats. They live healthy, natural lives on their own, content in their outdoor home.

Humans are the cause of wildlife depletion. Studies show that the overwhelming cause of wildlife depletion is destruction of natural habitat due to manmade structures, chemical pollution, pesticides, and drought — not feral cats. Learn more about the human toll on birds. Catch and kill doesn’t work. Animal control’s endless, cruel cycle is extremely costly to taxpayers. Cats choose to reside in locations for two reasons: there is a food source—(intended or not)—and shelter. When cats are removed from a location, survivors breed to capacity or new cats move in. This vacuum effect is well documented. Trap-Neuter-Return does work. No more kittens.

The population stabilizes and their lives are improved. The behaviors and stresses associated with mating, such as yowling or fighting, stop. The cats are vaccinated before being returned to their outdoor home. Not only does Trap-Neuter-Return make good sense, it is also a responsible, humane method of care for outdoor cats.

Learn more about conducting Trap-Neuter-Return.

my feral site

http://fabulousferalfelines.vox.com/

A catfight over neutering program

Bird lovers take issue with a city-subsidized nonprofit in Sun Valley that traps, sterilizes and then releases feral cats, saying it violates state environmental laws and doesn’t reduce the population

By Kimi Yoshino

January 17, 2010

The line forms even before the doors open at FixNation in Sun Valley. The trappers come, five days a week, back seats and trunks loaded with feral cats. Inside is a highly organized production line: On an average day, about 80 cats will be neutered, then released 24 hours later into the neighborhoods they came from.

This largely volunteer effort seeks to control a problem that vexes cities everywhere: how to manage homeless, free-roaming cats — thought to number at least 1 million in Los Angeles — while trying to avoid euthanizing them.

But the Audubon Society and other bird and wildlife groups say the program violates state environment laws. And what’s more, they contend it isn’t reducing the number of feral cats, which prey on many types of birds.

So the bird people took the city to court, much to the dismay of the cat people. Last month, after a daylong trial, a Los Angeles Superior Court judge sided with the plaintiffs, and it recently issued an injunction barring the city from subsidizing or promoting the trap-neuter-release program until environmental studies are completed.

In the long-playing Sylvester-vs.-Tweety battles, score a big one for the birds.

“The latest estimates are that there are about . . . 160 million feral cats [nationwide],” said Steve Holmer, senior policy advisor of the American Bird Conservancy, one of the groups that sued the city of Los Angeles. “It’s conservatively estimated that they kill about 500 million birds a year.”

But Judge Thomas McKnew Jr.’s decision sent a chill through cat advocates, who fear it could discourage municipalities across the nation from employing trap-neuter-release as a way to reduce shelter killings.

“There will be diminished public awareness of the homeless cat situation and the trap-neuter-release solution,” said Mark Dodge, founder of the nonprofit FixNation. “More homeless cats get abandoned, get ignored. It will probably mean more euthanasias of cats in shelters.”

In addition to barring city vouchers that offset the cost of neutering, the city cannot release feral cats from shelters to organizations like FixNation; conduct public outreach about the program; refer complaints about feral cats to trap-neuter-release groups; or waive cat-trap rental fees. (In the last fiscal year, the city spent about $240,000 subsidizing 8,000 surgeries for stray cats.)

City animal control officials declined to comment. The deputy city attorney on the case did not return repeated phone calls.

Not surprisingly, the ruling set off a flurry of emotional rhetoric.

In one online petition expressing outrage over the “ill-advised ruling,” signer Joanna Milkowski quoted Gandhi: “A nation’s greatness is measured by how it treats its weakest members.” Another called on people to “Help the Babies!!!!”

Dodge even suggested that these bird groups are “extremists” who “need to be marginalized” just like “Islamic jihadists.”

“It’s ugly; it’s gotten very vicious,” said Travis Longcore of the Urban Wildlands Group, one of the organizations that sued the city on behalf of the birds. “It’s not like we’ve got a vendetta here. This is a real environmental issue, a real public health issue.”

Although neutering and releasing the cats “appeals to the illusion of a win-win situation,” Longcore said, the birds and other wildlife are losing out. “The fact is, you decide not to kill cats and instead you kill wildlife.”

Those cats, Longcore said, often are diseased. And when colonies are fed, the practice often attracts more cats, either from around the neighborhood or because people dump new cats.

At San Pedro’s Cabrillo Beach, a feral cat colony resides near where snowy plovers nest, said Garry George, conservation chairman for the Los Angeles Audubon Society. At San Francisco’s Golden Gate Park, George said, feral cats have wiped out the California quail population. And in San Diego, feral cats roam free near a habitat for the California least tern, which officials are trying to monitor and protect, he said.

But even if environmental reviews are conducted, the question at the core of the dispute would remain: Does neutering feral cats effectively reduce their numbers?

Longcore, in a paper published in the scientific journal Conservation Biology, suggests that it does not, making him a prime target for cat lovers.

He cited two studies, including one in the Journal of the American Veterinary Medical Assn., that used mathematical models to determine that 71% to 94% of the cats in a colony must be neutered in order for the numbers to decline. In two feral colonies monitored in Florida, Longcore reported, the population actually increased because people dumped new cats.

In Los Angeles County, the environmental health department said that the approach has been “collectively ineffectual” and that all county-monitored colonies had significantly increased in number. Gail VanGordon, chief of the county’s vector management program, said that in addition to colonies not being reduced or eliminated, feral cats create public health concerns that result from feces and fleas.

But inside FixNation, the dedicated army of cat lovers is convinced its work is making a difference. Last year alone, the organization — one of several in Southern California — neutered 15,660 feral cats.

Trap-neuter-release advocates say it’s common sense: Isn’t it better to neuter those cats than to have them out breeding?

“This program has been a boon to animal control folks because it helps them manage an issue in a way that the community approves,” said Francis Battista, founder of Best Friends Animal Society, which helps fund FixNation. “If you take feral cats to a shelter, they’re dead. Nobody’s going to adopt it.”

That’s part of what drives Roberta Garten, one of FixNation’s “master trappers.”

She roams the streets of Los Angeles at night in search of feral cats. Armed with a flashlight and a Honda full of a cat’s delights — canned tuna, desiccated fish flakes, sardines, dry kibble and catnip — she might trap 16 to 20 animals a week. In one two-block radius in Lincoln Heights, she helped trap and fix more than 40 feral cats.

Residents, several of whom feed the feral cats, come outside to help, thanking Garten for her efforts. She’s so tuned in to the neighborhoods where she traps that she recognizes each hiding space and kitty, including one particularly stubborn black cat that had been successfully evading her traps and stinky fish.

After a long, cold night of waiting, one curious cat finally wanders into the cage. Garten checks the cat’s right ear. It’s not snipped, the telltale sign that it hasn’t been neutered — eliciting a “hallelujah” cry of success from Garten.

“I feel like I’m doing something worthwhile,” Garten said. “I feel like it’s helping this neighborhood a lot.”

kimi.yoshino@latimes.com

Copyright © 2010, The Los Angeles Times

fact:
ten million dogs and cats are put to death in shelters each year

An unspayed female cat, her mate and all of their offspring, producing 2 litters per year, with 2.8 surviving kittens per litter can total:

1 year: 12
2 years: 67
3 years: 376
4 years: 2,107
5 years: 11,801
6 years: 66,088
7 years: 370,092
8 years: 2,072,514
9 years: 11,606,077

An unspayed female dog, her mate and all of their puppies, if none are ever neutered or spayed, add up to:

1 year: 16
2 years: 128
3 years: 512
4 years: 2,048
5 years: 12,288
6 years: 67,000

URGENT!!!!!

PurrEver Ranch is in dire need of permanent housing. Our landlord passed and the property has been appraised. Widow has been advised to sell.

We despurrately need to find a new home and soon. Ideally, we would like a farm on at least 50 acres with barns but a country home on 10 acres with a workshop would be a dream come true.

SOMEONE OUT THERE CAN MAKE A DREAM
COME TRUE AND SAVE MANY, MANY LIVES.
PLEASE HELP US FIND A NEW HOME!!

DONATIONS NEEDED TO SECURE PERMANENT HOUSING!!!

We would like to stay in this area but
will relocate should property be donated.

Please remember to include PurrEver Ranch in your will.

I LOVE THIS PLACE!! It is exactly the type of shelter I would like to have..

please donate if you can..    Jan

PurrEver Ranch Sanctuary … link
501c (A Hospice For Senior Kittizens)

“Providing A Hospice For Homeless, Elderly Felines

A Chance To Live Out Their Lives In Peace
With Dignity, Compassion & Love”

PurrEver Ranch rescues senior felines from shelter euthanization.

Providing a safe hospice where the homeless,

senior kittizens live the rest of their lives blanketed in love.

PurrEver Ranch also feeds two feral colonies every day.

Taming feral kittens to avoid shelter euthanization–

returning to shelter to be adopted after they are gentled.

PurrEver Ranch is a place of refuge for cats that would otherwise perish -

the old, the abandoned, the abused, the sick & the suffering.

Your cat should be resting comfortably on your lap, the floor, or a table. Hold a paw in one hand and press a toe pad gently to extend the claw. Notice the pink tissue (the quick) on the inside of the claw. Avoid the quick when you trim the claw; cutting into it will cause pain and bleeding Remove the sharp tip below the quick (away from the toe), clipping about halfway between the end of the quick and the tip of claw. If your cat becomes impatient, take a break and try again later. Even if you can clip only a claw or two a day, eventually you’ll complete the task. (Because cats do little damage with their rear claws and do a good job of keeping them trim themselves-by chewing them-many cat owners never clip the rear claws. Others trim their cats’ rear claws three or four times a year or have them done by their veterinarian or a professional groomer.)

Many people hold the clippers at right angles to the nail, thus cutting across the nail. This tends to make the nail more subject to splitting or fraying. It is better to hold the clippers in a vertical position–that is, up and down, so that the claw is trimmed from bottom to top instead of across the nail. This position help prevent splitting.

Gently press the cat’s toe pads to reveal sharp claws in need of a trim.

Notice the pink tissue (the quick) on the inside of the claw. Avoid the quick when you trim the claw; cutting into it will cause pain and bleeding Remove the sharp tip below the quick (away from the toe), clipping about halfway between the end of the quick and the tip of claw.

If you accidentally clip into the quick, don’t panic. The claw may bleed for a moment, but it will usually stop very quickly. Soothe your cat by speaking softly to her and stroking her head. If the bleeding hasn’t stopped after a minute or so, touch a styptic pencil to the claw end or pat on styptic powder to help staunch the bleeding.

that is the question

Know the difference… Regurgitation is a favorite pass time for my cats.

Cats can have “non-specific vomiting and/or vomiting and diarrhea… Know you pet..

good article below:

Vomiting is a very common problem in dogs and cats. There are many causes of vomiting. Primary or gastric causes of vomiting are those that are due to diseases of the stomach and upper intestinal tract. Secondary or non-gastric causes of vomiting are caused by diseases of other organs that cause an accumulation  of  toxic substances in the blood. These toxic substances stimulate the vomiting center in the brain causing the animal to vomit.

A problem that can be confused with vomiting is regurgitation. Vomiting is the ejection of contents of the stomach and upper intestine; regurgitation is the ejection of contents of the esophagus. The esophagus is a narrow, muscular tube that food passes through on its way to the stomach. In health, food moves quickly through the esophagus to the stomach. If the muscle of the esophagus loses tone, the esophagus dilates, a condition called megaesophagus. A dilated esophagus does not effectively move food to the stomach and the animal will regurgitate food usually shortly after eating. The food may also be inhaled into the airways causing pneumonia and cough.

When you present your pet to the veterinarian because he or she is vomiting, the veterinarian will ask questions in attempt to differentiate between vomiting and regurgitation and to try to determine if your pet is vomiting due to gastric or non gastric disease. Vomiting is an active process. The pet is apprehensive and heaves and retches to vomit. If food is present in vomit, it is partially digested and a yellow fluid, bile may be present. Regurgitation is fairly passive. The animal  lowers its head and food is expelled without effort.  The food brought up by regurgitation is usually undigested, may have a tubular shape, and is often covered with a slimy mucus. The pet will often try to eat the regurgitated material. You may bring a fresh sample of “vomit” for the veterinarian  to examine. The pH of vomit containing food is acid, the pH of regurgitated materials is higher. Your ability to answer questions about your pet’s activity, habits and environment will help the veterinarian decide which causes of vomiting are most likely in your pet. A history of any drugs your pet is receiving is important. Over-the-counter pain medications such as aspirin and ibuprofen can cause severe stomach ulcers in dogs depending upon the dose and duration of treatment.  The veterinarian may ask you to describe the appearance of the vomit, as well as describe how your pet looks when it vomits and the relation ship of vomiting to eating. If the vomit contains blood it may be fresh, red blood or look like coffee grounds if the blood is digested. Blood is most often seen with stomach ulcers, stomach cancer or uremia (a collection of signs including vomiting seen in pets with kidney failure). Stomach ulcers can be caused by drugs or the presence of a mast cell cancer in the skin. Mast cell cancers release histamine that leads to stomach ulcers. Regurgitation often, but not always, happens right after eating and the pet will try to eat the regurgitated food.  Vomiting occurs a variable time after eating or may occur in a pet who is off food. Animals with a twisted stomach, gastric dilation-torsion, may make frequent attempts to vomit without producing anything. Pets with a hacking cough may retch and sometime vomit at the end of an episode of forceful coughing.  An accurate description in this case would lead to an investigation of the causes of coughing, rather than vomiting.

If your pet vomits just occasionally and has a specific series of actions associated with vomiting, you may consider video taping an episode of vomiting to help describe the episodes to the veterinarian.

The physical examination of the vomiting pet can also provide information to narrow the list of possible causes.  The presence of fever, abdominal pain, jaundice, anemia or abnormal masses in the abdomen will help the veterinarian make a more specific diagnosis. The mouth should be carefully examined as some foreign objects such as string can wind around the base of the tongue with the rest of the object extending into the stomach or small intestine. A nodule may be palpated in the neck of cats with hyperthyroidism.

The list of non-gastric causes of vomiting is long.

Pancreatitis in the dog causes vomiting that is sudden in onset and often severe. The dog may have a painful belly. Pets with pancreatitis often have a  history of eating garbage or fatty table scraps. Tumors of the pancreas can cause similar signs to pancreatitis. Pancreatitis occurs in the cat but the signs are subtle and non specific and often don’t  include vomiting

Kidney failure is a common cause of vomiting in dogs and cats. The kidneys can be acutely (suddenly) damaged by poisons such as antifreeze or by severe dehydration.   Waste products that the kidneys normally get rid of, rise to high levels in just a few days. The kidneys can also gradually lose their ability to remove waste products from the body as the pet ages. Early signs of kidney failure include drinking and urinating large amounts called polyuria and polydipsia or PU-PD. PU-PD may be present for months to years before the kidney failure is severe enough to lead to waste product accumulation and vomiting. Vomiting in chronic kidney failure may began as occasional episodes and progress to severe, frequent vomiting. The pet with chronic kidney failure will often lose body condition and may have pale gums due to anemia.

Non-spayed, middle aged female pets can develop a uterine infection called pyometra. Pyometra occurs within 2 months after a heat cycle and often results in discharge of pus from the vagina. The pet may frequently lick the vagina so discharge may not be seen. Dogs develop pyometra more often than cats. Other signs may include PU-PD and depression.

Liver failure causes vomiting as well as other signs depending on the type of liver disease. Other signs of liver disease may include seizures, jaundice (a yellow discoloration of the areas of skin not covered by fur), PU-PD and fluid accumulation in the belly or legs. Bladder obstruction or rupture will cause a sudden onset of vomiting. The urethra that leads from the bladder to the outside can get plugged by stones or tumors. The animal  will strain and pass just a free drops of urine or none at all. They will also have a painful belly. Bladder obstruction if not corrected, is fatal in just a few days. The bladder can be ruptured by blunt trauma such as being hit by a car or kicked.

A form of diabetes called ketoacidosis will cause vomiting along with depression and PU-PD.

Addison’s disease is a deficiency of hormones from the adrenal gland and causes vomiting, diarrhea and weakness. Addison’s disease occurs most commonly in young to middle aged dogs, most of which are female. Addison’s is rare in the cat.  The signs of Addison’s disease may be intermittent or may be very severe and constant.

Diseases of the inner ear can cause vomiting accompanied by incoordination, circling and tilting of the head to the side. Motion during car rides stimulates the inner ear and can cause vomiting.

A sudden onset of vomiting in young, poorly vaccinated pets may be caused by infectious agents including canine distemper, canine parvovirus and feline panleukopenia virus.

There are many toxins including lead, insecticides, antifreeze and other chemicals that can cause vomiting.

Cats with elevated thyroid function, hyperthyroidism, may vomit in addition to other signs including, increased appetite, weight loss, hyperactivity and a poorly kept coat. Heartworm disease in cats may cause vomiting in addition to coughing, respiratory distress, weight loss and depression.

Primary causes of vomiting include acute gastritis often due to eating garbage or other types of dietary indiscretions; the ingestion of large amounts of hair during grooming; ulcers of the stomach; stomach or upper intestinal cancer; parasites; food allergies; the presence of a foreign body stuck in the stomach or upper intestine; twisting and dilation of the stomach; and intussusception which is a telescoping of one part of the intestine into another piece of intestine.

The stomach is usually empty 6 to 8 hours after eating. Vomiting of  food when the stomach should be empty suggests an obstruction of the stomach or abnormal motion of the stomach muscles that normally grind food and push the ground food out of the stomach.

Tests to differentiate primary causes of vomiting include x-rays or ultrasound of the abdomen and endoscopy. Endoscopy is the technique of passing a flexible scope into the stomach and upper intestine to examine the inside of these structures. It may be possible to remove a foreign body with endoscopy and small biopsies of the lining of the stomach and intestine can be taken for microscopic evaluation. Endoscopy requires general anesthesia.

If the pet vomits sporadically, the results of all tests may be normal. Many healthy dogs and cats vomit occasionally without identifying a cause. Sometimes the cause of vomiting is as simple as the pet eating too fast.  The treatment for vomiting depends upon the cause. Nonspecific treatment for vomiting includes fasting, and fluids to correct or prevent dehydration.  In episodes of sudden onset of vomiting,  food is withheld for 24 – 48 hours and water for 24 hours. Water should never be withheld from an animal with known or suspected kidney disease without replacing fluids intravenously or subcutaneously (under the skin). If vomiting stops, small amounts of a bland low-fat food are fed 3 to 6 times daily for a few days, with a gradual increase in the amount fed and a gradual transition to the pet’s normal diet. Water is also reintroduced in small amounts on the second day. You may start with  ice cubes and then gradually increase the amount of water over the day if vomiting does not reoccur.

If the pet is bright and alert and has had no previous health problems, episodes of acute vomiting  may be managed at home, although veterinary consultation prior to home treatment is advised.  Consultation with a veterinarian in your region may reveal a recent outbreak of an infectious disease causing vomiting or identify  a cluster of recent poisonings. With this type of knowledge you will want to have your pet evaluated rather than waiting a few days. Dogs and cats who vomit for longer than a few days or are depressed or dehydrated should be presented for veterinary evaluation.

Raising kittens

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2 weeks old kittens

Warmth first:
Kittens depend on their mother to keep them warm because they can’t maintain their own body temperature.
Chilling is the greatest single threat to a neonatal kitten’s survival. If the kitten is cold to the touch hypothermia has already set in. This means your kitten’s body temperature is dangerously low and her condition is critical!

Use your body first. Your own body provides the best immediate insulation. (Do not put kittens that display defensive behavior next to your skin- have a layer of clothes between you and the kitten).

Massage in the warmth. Gently massage the kitten’s body to stimulate circulation.

Wrap a towel around a hot water bottle or bottles of warm water- place it close to the kitten.

Never feed a chilled kitten any type of milk replacement formula or anything else. This can prove fatal! To stabilize a kitten as you warm him, try rubbing .01 cc (a thin layer on your finger tip) of light corn syrup, or a solution of equal parts sugar and water on his gums.

Place the kitten/kittens in a quiet place in a clean draft free area – the area should be large enough for the kittens to move around freely.

It is best to use a heating pad made for specially for pets, but if you must use a regular heating pad, set it on the lowest temperature, be sure to cover the heating pad well with a towel making sure the kitten cannot crawl under it and come into direct contact with the pad. The kittens must be able to move away from the heat, so be sure it covers only part of their bed. Check the kittens frequently.

During the first week of life the kitten area should be kept at 86 – 90 degrees and lowered five degrees a week until 75 degrees is reached. Use a thermometer to check the temperature of heating pad.

Keep it clean:

You’ll want to keep the kitten’s environment as clean as possible. Unweaned kittens can generate amazing messes in a short time by relieving themselves in their bed. Do not use strong disinfectants or detergents. Wash with 1 part bleach to 32 part water. Be sure to keep the kittens area dry.

Dehydration:
Kittens can easily become dehydrated due to lack of mother’s milk, hypothermia, or prolonged vomiting or diarrhea. To detect whether a kitten is dehydrated gently pick up a fold of skin along the kitten’s back (the scruff). The skin should quickly pop back into place. If the skin stays put dehydration has occurred.
A dehydrated kitten requires quick help. An electrolyte solution made for human babies and sold at most grocery stores is a good first line of defense for mildly dehydrated kittens. You can give your kitten 1cc of the electrolyte solution (slightly warmed and tested on your wrist) 3 times a day to help maintain electrolyte balance.
Severe dehydration is a veterinary emergency. Signs include sunken eyes, lack of skin elasticity determined by the skin fold test described above, dry mouth, exhaustion or lethargy.

Record:
Chart the kitten’s initial weight, taking notes on kitten’s general appearance, and accurately recording the feeding schedule with the time and amount of formula given.
To safely weigh kittens at home use a kitchen baking scale that contains a large capacity bowl.

Average weight for kittens:

Age (days)________Weight
1 2 ½ to 4 ¾ oz
5 3 to 7 oz
10 4 ½ to 9 ¾ oz
15 6 to 11 ¾ oz
20 7 ½ to 14 ½ oz
25 8 to 16 ¾ oz
Reprinted courtesy of Alley Cat Allies

The most important thing to note is that each kitten is gaining some amount of weight every single day.

Stages of Growth:
First week- kittens are virtually helpless at birth. Tiny and wet, they generally weigh in between 3-4 oz and are less then 6 inches long. Their eyes are closed and ears folded over. They are deaf and blind at birth. During the first week their sense of smell, hearing and taste begin to take shape. They can’t urinate or defecate on their own.
At this time they spend 90% of their time sleeping and the other 10% nursing. They can call out in distress and purr.

Second week- The kitten’s eyes begin to open (they are blue) and focus a bit. The ears also begin to open and stand up. They begin to crawl and snuggle in their nest. They are unable to retract their tiny claws, but knead enthusiastically.

Third week- Their eyesight improves. Those important first steps take place in the form of wobbly movements. They begin to cut baby teeth. True eye color appears. They begin to notice the world around them – full of sights, sounds and siblings.

Fourth week- by now they’re busy exploring their environment, playing with litter mates (if they don’t have litter mates, you need to be their litter mate and play with them a lot!) be careful not to teach them to play roughly with your hands- it’s cute at this age, but will not be so cute when they are adults biting your hand. They learn how to dig; they roll over and get back up. They begin lapping and go to the bathroom without help. Litter box training begins.

Fifth week- vigorous kitten play, including hiding, stalking, and pouncing. Baby teeth are in. Individual personalities emerge. The process of learning to nibble solid food continues.

Sixth week- their balance has improved. They learn to negotiate their territory, trotting and running in a smoother fashion. They’re more playful and begin to use their nails to climb (your legs) and they thrive on physical and mental stimulation.

Boy or Girl:
To determine the sex of you kitten, gently lift their tails and take a peek. Keep English punctuation in mind. The anus, testes and penis will resemble an exclamation point on males. Females will exhibit an anus and vulva that looks remarkably like a colon.

Feed Me:
Cow’s milk should never be given to kittens. It’s a poor substitute for a mother cat’s milk. The lactose level is too high and the fat and protein level are too low for kittens.
Even worse it causes diarrhea which can quickly dehydrate kittens.

Always use premixed formulas made specifically for kittens.

General feeding:
Kittens age Average Amount of Number of
(Weeks) weight formula per day feedings daily

1 4 oz 32 cc 6

2 7 oz 56 cc 4

3 10 oz 80 cc 3

4 13 oz 104 cc 3

5 1lb 128 cc 3

This is the average, but this is only a guideline and you will need to monitor your kitten to be sure it is gaining weight. It is important to not over feed or under feed your kitten.
Over feeding can cause diarrhea. One way to tell if you are overfeeding is the kittens will have appearance of grayish stool. On the other hand, a kitten that is not fed enough will cry continuously and appear restless, then listless. Under feeding will result in the kitten becoming dehydrated and chilled. Keep in mind a kitten’s milk intake is limited to her small stomach. The stomach should feel full but not swollen after she is fed.

A kitten requires about 8 cc’s of formula per ounce of body weight a day, divided among feedings. Follow the general feeding guide, but realize that each kitten is an individual and feeding is not an exact science. Healthy kittens let you know when they want to be fed and will often let you know they are full by releasing the nipple. If your kitten wake up and cries, she is probably hungry.

Bottle Feeding:
Kittens that are strong enough to suck vigorously on your finger should be bottle fed. Be sure to make the hole in the nipple big enough that kitten milk can go through, but not so large it runs out too quickly risking aspiration (milk in kitten’s lungs)

Be sure to sterilize all utensils before each feeding and warmth the formula to no more than 100 degrees F – test the formula on your wrist, it should feel warm not hot. Make sure the formula has no hot spots if you use the microwave.
To bottle feed kittens visualize the kitten’s natural position if she were nursing from her mom. Place the kitten stomach down on a towel it can cling to at roughly a 45 degree angle. Squeeze a drop of milk on the tip of the nipple, gently open her mouth and slip the nipple between her jaws. The angle helps prevent air from entering the stomach.
Never hold the kitten in the air or on her back while feeding. Never force feed your kitten or squeeze the bottle. Let the kitten suck on her own and sit back and relax. You and your kitten will catch on quickly! When you kitten is full, her tummy will be slightly rounded and bubbles will form around her moth. Just like young human babies, kittens must be burped after each feeding. Hold your kitten upright on against your shoulder. Pat and rub her gently on her back.

If your kitten appears to choke during a feeding or you notice formula coming out of his nose, don’t panic. The kitten may have aspirated some formula into his lungs. Immediately and gently hold the kitten upside down until the choking or coughing subsides. Tip: Make sure the hole in the nipple is not too large.

Stimulation means elimination
kittens younger then 3 weeks of age cannot eliminate on their own, they need your help. A mother cat normally licks the kitten’s genital and anal areas to stimulate them to urinate and defecate. You can do this after feeding and burping your kitten, take a cotton ball and moisten with warm water and gently rub over stomach and bottom. This action mimics the mom’s licking and will stimulate the kitten to relieve themselves. You will need to do this after every meal.

Wash after every meal
Tiny kittens are irresistibly cute, but they are also very messy. Like the mother cat you will want to clean them up after meals or after they eliminate. Don’t immerse a kitten in water this can cause respiratory problems. Instead, wash her with a warm, damp washcloth using short, gentle strokes; this mimics the moms licking her baby clean. Get them as dry as possible and then leave them in a warm, draft-free area until you are sure they are completely dry. Never allow your kitten to become chilled.

Weaning your kitten
the first thing to learn about weaning is that kittens do not always stick to the schedule we plan for them. Weaning has a lot more to do with the kitten’s readiness to be weaned than our desire to hurry the process along.

When your kitten reaches 4 weeks (occasionally earlier) start putting the formula in a shallow bowl or pan. Neatness doesn’t count, so be prepared for some wildly messy moments as your preschoolers learn to eat from a pan and not in it. At this time also, start leaving out fresh water in shallow dishes. From this point on fresh water should be available at all times.

Continue to keep your kittens as clean and dry as possible. Like a mother cat you will teach your kitten to clean their fur and groom themselves. The old adage about cleanliness being nest to godliness will prevent a host of skin problems.

Begin to add solid foods gradually. Use a high quality canned food designed specifically for kittens. Smear some on their lips or touch a finger to the mixture and put it in the kitten’s mouth. This is also when to leave dry kitten food out in a bowl. Be patient with the dry food; remember it takes time for the young kittens to become strong enough to chew dry kitten food. Weaning should not be finished until the kitten is 6 weeks or older.

Litter box time
At approximately 4 weeks your kitten is ready for litter box training. Her first litter box should allow for easy access- a small litter box or pie tin with a shallow layer of litter works well. Place the kitten in the litter and scratch the paws in it. This should be enough, but if necessary you should put a bit of their own stool in the box so they know what to do. They usually figure this out quickly. Use only clay litter or another non-clumping alternative (like Yesterdays News made from recycled paper) for safety sake. If they ingest it, they could end up with an obstruction. If it sticks to their nose it could impede their ability to breath.

Socializing
The kittens need to be handled a lot in order to be easy to handle adults. It is crucial they be given lots of attention, play time, cuddling. This is also a good time to get them used to having their nails trimmed. Place them on their back holding them like a baby. The more they are handled as kittens the more accepting of this they will be as adults. It is also important for them to be around noises, such as t. v., radio, people talking and so on.

(thank you Casa de los Gatos)